Weird sound

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Reggaerover

Member
Posts
90
Location
Belgium
Hi there!

I have a problem with my automatic 2003 Discovery 2 td5. It’s not actually a problem YET… i’m having a weird sound when engine is hot and when i let go Off throttle. It kind of sounds like a belt is slipping or running against the edge of a pulley. I Will add a video if possible. It is really hard to hear on the video because of the engine Noice but I hope you Guys hear It. Perhaps It also makes the sound when throttle is in but then I can’t hear it over the engine noice so i’m not sure about that. Also when i stand still running idle i don’t hear it to. Its only when riding.

thanks in advance!
 
Reggaerover said:
Hi there!

I have a problem with my automatic 2003 Discovery 2 td5. It’s not actually a problem YET… i’m having a weird sound when engine is hot and when i let go Off throttle. It kind of sounds like a belt is slipping or running against the edge of a pulley. I Will add a video if possible. It is really hard to hear on the video because of the engine Noice but I hope you Guys hear It. Perhaps It also makes the sound when throttle is in but then I can’t hear it over the engine noice so i’m not sure about that. Also when i stand still running idle i don’t hear it to. Its only when riding.

thanks in advance!
Click to expand...


Video is not possible ‘website gives error ‘The uploaded file does not have an allowed extension.‘’ someone know how i can post this video ?
 
Reggaerover said:
Oh okey thank you! So what exactly do i look for around the manifold? Can i see something weird or ?

thanks already!
Click to expand...
You will see soot marks where the manifold has warped away from the head, you may also find nut/studs gone, and if you look carefully along the line of the connection you may simply see that it isn't straight. The ends are the places to look.
If you try to insert feeler gauges or a thin blade between the manifold and the head, where there is a gap will be obvious.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
You will see soot marks where the manifold has warped away from the head, you may also find nut/studs gone, and if you look carefully along the line of the connection you may simply see that it isn't straight. The ends are the places to look.
If you try to insert feeler gauges or a thin blade between the manifold and the head, where there is a gap will be obvious.
Click to expand...
Okey that gives me a good direction to look at! I hope i find Some time this weekend to check this.

thanks in advance!
 
So i didn’t get a feeler gauge between the manifold and engine. I tried to thighten all the manifold bolts and there was 1 I could thighten a liiiitlle bit. I’m ordening Some stuff for the landy because i’m also fixing my play on the steering wheel. Do i order a manifold gasket and replace it just to be sure or is it not worth the risk ? Because the bolts on the engine that thighten the manifold look really rusty so i’m a little scared to break something. Also, does someone know what the part number is of the knee thing on the drive Shaft ? Its number 11 on the picture i Will add in this post.
Thanks in advance!
 

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If your manifold has warped ordering a manifold gasket is a waste of time unless you are going to take it all off get it refaced flat then replace it.
and by the way it is a double gasket.
You have hit the nail right on the head by saying that the nuts/bolts are all rusty and looking dodgy.
IF your manifold hasn't yet warped you might be able to do some good by removing the webbing between each branch of the manifold, but again, doing this in situ would be difficult.
Be very aware that when you start to try and remove the manifold bolts/studs you could find yourself in a nightmare of pooh.
BUT you seem to be lucky in that you haven't said that any of them have gone missing.
I think what I would do is to soak them all in the easing fluid of your choice, in my case a mix of ATF and acetone and keep on doing this for a long time before trying to remove them and release the manifold.
Then I would get it skimmed flat and remove all the webbing before replacing it preferably with new studs and nuts.
There is a company that sells a replacement kit for the studs and nuts. They are quite pricey and not all that much like the originals. Sorry i cannot remember the name of the co.
You said you cannot get a feeler gauge in the gap.
But is there any evidence of soot anywhere around it?
 
Stanleysteamer said:
If your manifold has warped ordering a manifold gasket is a waste of time unless you are going to take it all off get it refaced flat then replace it.
and by the way it is a double gasket.
You have hit the nail right on the head by saying that the nuts/bolts are all rusty and looking dodgy.
IF your manifold hasn't yet warped you might be able to do some good by removing the webbing between each branch of the manifold, but again, doing this in situ would be difficult.
Be very aware that when you start to try and remove the manifold bolts/studs you could find yourself in a nightmare of pooh.
BUT you seem to be lucky in that you haven't said that any of them have gone missing.
I think what I would do is to soak them all in the easing fluid of your choice, in my case a mix of ATF and acetone and keep on doing this for a long time before trying to remove them and release the manifold.
Then I would get it skimmed flat and remove all the webbing before replacing it preferably with new studs and nuts.
There is a company that sells a replacement kit for the studs and nuts. They are quite pricey and not all that much like the originals. Sorry i cannot remember the name of the co.
You said you cannot get a feeler gauge in the gap.
But is there any evidence of soot anywhere around it?
Click to expand...
That sounds like a lot of trouble haha thanks for all the info! What do you mean with remove all the Webbing ? And what do you mean with soot ? What does it look like ?
 
Reggaerover said:
That sounds like a lot of trouble haha thanks for all the info! What do you mean with remove all the Webbing ? And what do you mean with soot ? What does it look like ?
Click to expand...
Imagine each branch of the five branch manifold is like a waterdog's claw except there are five of them. (Dew claws not counting)
In between each claw there is a web. If you look at your manifold you will see it too has a web there, between each branch where it goes to the head.
If you cut this away with a saw, grinder etc it reduces the risk of the manifold warping.
 
Reggaerover said:
So i didn’t get a feeler gauge between the manifold and engine. I tried to thighten all the manifold bolts and there was 1 I could thighten a liiiitlle bit. I’m ordening Some stuff for the landy because i’m also fixing my play on the steering wheel. Do i order a manifold gasket and replace it just to be sure or is it not worth the risk ? Because the bolts on the engine that thighten the manifold look really rusty so i’m a little scared to break something. Also, does someone know what the part number is of the knee thing on the drive Shaft ? Its number 11 on the picture i Will add in this post.
Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Hi, not sure if this helps your parts search but if the part you need is in the link you can click on the description for the part number Genuine Steering Box-power (with Power Steering) For Land Rover Discovery 2 1998 - 2004 Classic | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Imagine each branch of the five branch manifold is like a waterdog's claw except there are five of them. (Dew claws not counting)
In between each claw there is a web. If you look at your manifold you will see it too has a web there, between each branch where it goes to the head.
If you cut this away with a saw, grinder etc it reduces the risk of the manifold warping.
Click to expand...
Oh okey thanks for explaining! I still have to check for Root Marks but my Parts where delivered today so maybe tomorrow when i have time i go to my disco :)
 
Stanleysteamer said:
You haven't de webbed yours then Andy? @Andy Warren
Click to expand...
Hi Stan, no I got this manifold for free at the time (the guy who gave it to me said it had been surface ground six months before, then his turbo went so he broke it for parts) I did take it to an engineering place with my original & it turns out this one was spot on, unlike the one that came off which was as bent (warped) as a nine Bob note, I keep checking & so far the stud kit I fitted is still OK, it's done about 10,000 miles since fitting. Hope you're keeping well, all the best.
 
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