waxoyl

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You know if there were summut out there that stopped rust or just slowed it down to a respectable pace then with the audiance we have here everybody would be using it, but when you check the threads it's this and that.

As far as I am concerned waxoyle is ****e, I hear what is being said about blocking the moisture out but the moisture is in the metal and when you cover it, it just bubbles away under it.

I have a bit of rust on my merc and it's at the boot handle, I can sand it down quite easy but although I paint it each year keeping moisture out it still rusts through each year, so where is the logic in covering it coz it dunt work. I ground the stay bars on the same vehicle down after removing them and painted them to fook wif red hamerite and they have rusted to fook worse than before. I can give yer a photo if yer like. spent ages on them as well.

We need summut that soaks into the metal, inside the chassis and out.

There is even talk of hydraulic oil on google and fisholine or summat but who the fooks used it. Some are mentioning the use of diesel but wif the amount of this splashed over fuel tanks why do they rust their arses out, also we had a vehicle which carried fuel cans of diesel one of the fookers rusted through and leaked it all over a dry vehicle which carried newspapers, from the inside out, how the fook did that happen.

And the last thing I should mention when I was a boy I worked for the council we sprayed the gritters each year with new oil but they fell to bits with rust, I think the salt gets into the metal.



Reet who the fooks got a 90 year old landie wif a perfect chassis, coz we want to know what you used, wif pics.

Or on the other hand how many have had to replace the chassis or attack it wif a welder more likely.
 
I used to work on pipelines where steel pipes are cathodically protected using a sacrificial anode, simply put a small current is passed through the steel and a big fook off lump of metal is put at the end of the current which effectively causes the ionic transfer (rusting) to take place within the lump of metal (the sacrificial anode) and not the pipeline.

I have often wondered if it would be possible to rig something like this up on a steel chassis, you would need to coat it in a substance through which ionic transfer could take place (something "wet" - oil or waxoyl?) but i'd rather have all the rusting taking place on an easily changeable lump of sacrificial metal somewhere easy to get to than the whole fookin chassis.

Please can someone considerably cleverer than me (i've heard thee are a few about!!:D) explain why this is a non-starter!
 
I used to work on pipelines where steel pipes are cathodically protected using a sacrificial anode, simply put a small current is passed through the steel and a big fook off lump of metal is put at the end of the current which effectively causes the ionic transfer (rusting) to take place within the lump of metal (the sacrificial anode) and not the pipeline.

I have often wondered if it would be possible to rig something like this up on a steel chassis, you would need to coat it in a substance through which ionic transfer could take place (something "wet" - oil or waxoyl?) but i'd rather have all the rusting taking place on an easily changeable lump of sacrificial metal somewhere easy to get to than the whole fookin chassis.

Please can someone considerably cleverer than me (i've heard thee are a few about!!:D) explain why this is a non-starter!

There's a few if you google it that claim they got it to work, but it's like all these things if it were a sure thing it would be sold on ebay or summut.

I think salt is the problem it dunt work.
 
Ah use the pump type waxoyl sprayer. Like trewy said, stick it in some hot water for a bit, ah use some old engine oil to thin it down a bit;)

I tried using a garden sprayer to spray old sump oil on & in the chassis - you'd have ****ed yourself if you'd seen the results, absolute useless crap thin stream of black gunk, no spray at all.

Won't be doing that again then:eek: :eek: :eek:
 
nutting wrong with Waxoil - the trick with all of these protection systems is to put it on before the corrosion starts - ideally at the chassis manufacturers.
 
So?

wot that means in any practical sense is that none of us stand a cat in hells chance of keeping the rust bug away, just slowing it down! To that end anything is better than nothing, whether it be noo oil, engine oil, waxoil or even olyveoil:rolleyes:
 
So?

wot that means in any practical sense is that none of us stand a cat in hells chance of keeping the rust bug away, just slowing it down! To that end anything is better than nothing, whether it be noo oil, engine oil, waxoil or even olyveoil:rolleyes:

Nah there ya fookin go, bored already un givin in ta tha bastid metal munchur.

Reet am orf with ma parrafin oil the fookin rains off un all the rusty bits are fookin gettin it.
 
Are these products any good:
Hammerite UK - Metal Paint: No.1 Rust Beater
Hammerite UK - Metal Paint: Kurust
?

I used kurust on my old maestro (piece of crap!). There was a bit of rust on the door about 5 cm across that I couldn't be arsed to fix properly so I stuck kurust on it and left it. Seemed to stop the rust in it's tracks.

Also when I fixed my rusty diff cover a couple of years ago I stuck some kurust on before painting and that hasn't rusted again. The other parts where I've just primed & painted over always seem to come back very quickly.

Might try the rust beater next time I'm fixing rusty patches just to see if it's any good.

Anybody tried these things on a bigger scale and do they work?
 
Are these products any good:
Hammerite UK - Metal Paint: No.1 Rust Beater
Hammerite UK - Metal Paint: Kurust
?

I used kurust on my old maestro (piece of crap!). There was a bit of rust on the door about 5 cm across that I couldn't be arsed to fix properly so I stuck kurust on it and left it. Seemed to stop the rust in it's tracks.

Also when I fixed my rusty diff cover a couple of years ago I stuck some kurust on before painting and that hasn't rusted again. The other parts where I've just primed & painted over always seem to come back very quickly.

Might try the rust beater next time I'm fixing rusty patches just to see if it's any good.

Anybody tried these things on a bigger scale and do they work?

I tried the gel stuff on rust under the bonnet but it came back again, it turned it black like it says and I sanded it down and fooked it a second time, then painted it but it's back again. I also did the same to my rear stay bars which I took off and sanded to death, painted it with the curust ****e then hammerited it and the bars are rusted to fook again. I'm going to make new bars out of flat bar off my garage door, so fookin ****ed off.
 
I used the NO.1 Rustbeater on my Scenic wheel arches. The rust is now poking through it again. Maybe 2 coats would have been better but I wasn't impressed. It's also a rubbish colour. It's pinky peach when it dries. I'm not sure I'd like my chassis that colour. Although you would see the rust if it came back through it easy enough.
 
Sound like they're a bunch of ****e then. :-( I was thinking of painting the stuff on first (couple of coats) and then painting over it with underseal. I just found a new patch in the passenger footwell that's being munched by rust as we speak. I guess it should slow it down a bit at least.
 
Are these products any good:
Hammerite UK - Metal Paint: No.1 Rust Beater
Hammerite UK - Metal Paint: Kurust
?

I used kurust on my old maestro (piece of crap!). There was a bit of rust on the door about 5 cm across that I couldn't be arsed to fix properly so I stuck kurust on it and left it. Seemed to stop the rust in it's tracks.

Also when I fixed my rusty diff cover a couple of years ago I stuck some kurust on before painting and that hasn't rusted again. The other parts where I've just primed & painted over always seem to come back very quickly.

Might try the rust beater next time I'm fixing rusty patches just to see if it's any good.

Anybody tried these things on a bigger scale and do they work?

Hi Woot, I've just visited those 2 sites and from what I read, I can't see any difference between there claims and traditional Hammerite hammer finish paint - can you??

Cheers
Dave
 
Sound like they're a bunch of ****e then. :-( I was thinking of painting the stuff on first (couple of coats) and then painting over it with underseal. I just found a new patch in the passenger footwell that's being munched by rust as we speak. I guess it should slow it down a bit at least.

Why not take a different route and try parrafin oil, not parrafin a completly different product, if it's a small area then it's not a problem if it fails. My son used this product for a skin issue, and it's used in many medical products, it also protects against moisture, and is used in industry to protect metal, and seems to be rubber and plastic friendly, so it wont kill the mountings.

I got some from a chemist and have applied it to some areas of my vehicle on it's own at the minute, with a view if it passes to cover it with waxoyl which seems to use the same product in it, but not sufficiently to give penetration into the rust unfortunatly, even when thinned with spirits etc.

I hope that the parrafin oil penetrates and protects and kills the rust, and the waxoyl protects the parrafin oil.

It's trial and error here, but underseal unfortunatly is only going to hide it for a year until the floor falls out, just like the waxoyl on it's own.
 
Hi.

I have used both brush and spray (using a compressor and gun). I give the can a good shake up before use and spray on a warm/hot day. Be careful if spraying - not to spray the discs - you will then need to change the disc pads.

Let us know how you get on. I have just sprayed the underneath of my freelander. It now looks like new. I am going to spray my Disco next.

RSVP

Louis
 
Why not take a different route and try parrafin oil, not parrafin a completly different product, if it's a small area then it's not a problem if it fails. My son used this product for a skin issue, and it's used in many medical products, it also protects against moisture, and is used in industry to protect metal, and seems to be rubber and plastic friendly, so it wont kill the mountings.

I got some from a chemist and have applied it to some areas of my vehicle on it's own at the minute, with a view if it passes to cover it with waxoyl which seems to use the same product in it, but not sufficiently to give penetration into the rust unfortunatly, even when thinned with spirits etc.

I hope that the parrafin oil penetrates and protects and kills the rust, and the waxoyl protects the parrafin oil.

It's trial and error here, but underseal unfortunatly is only going to hide it for a year until the floor falls out, just like the waxoyl on it's own.

I like the sound of parrafin oil. A lot less grim sounding than waste engine oil mixed with white spirit.

Is parrafin oil sprayable using an air compressor. Would thinning it with white spirit work.

Also, is it not a bit pricey out of the chemist for the quantity needed for under a Disco?

Cheers

Andy
 
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