Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
- Posts
- 15,356
- Location
- somewhere else
Look past and through the $hit there is helpful advice. 
This is the best forum on the interwebz for advice.
This is the best forum on the interwebz for advice.
Wanted... freelander (no longer needed)
- Thread starter Land_girl
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 25,252
- Location
- Christchurch, New Zealand
I'd pick the best 2 from the same axle, put those on the front and get 2 more of those tyres to put on the back. If the best 2 aren't great, then you may as well replace all 4 with what ever brand you choose.
Before you do anything though, I'd check the colour of the IRD oil. If it is metallicy, you have problems which will mean a probable replacement IRD. If that is a non-starter, then you'll be wanting to run it as 2WD (by removing the props) and swapping tyres out will basically be a pointless waste of money.
Assuming the IRD is good. You then want to do the One Wheel Up Test to determine the condition of the VCU. If the timings (with a 5kg weight on a 1.2m bar) are coming in over a minute, whip the props off so as not to damage anything until you've got the replacement VCU. You should whip the props off till the tyres are sorted as well.
Given the coolant leak, you may want to prioritise things - once again to make sure you don't spend any wasted money.
All this though does no identify what is causing the clicking you are getting when reversing on lock. That obviously can have an impact on what you do. This clicking may be a (diff or VCU) support/mount but I'm thinking it isn't. I'm thinking its the IRD or rear diff. Investigation is needed.
Before you do anything though, I'd check the colour of the IRD oil. If it is metallicy, you have problems which will mean a probable replacement IRD. If that is a non-starter, then you'll be wanting to run it as 2WD (by removing the props) and swapping tyres out will basically be a pointless waste of money.
Assuming the IRD is good. You then want to do the One Wheel Up Test to determine the condition of the VCU. If the timings (with a 5kg weight on a 1.2m bar) are coming in over a minute, whip the props off so as not to damage anything until you've got the replacement VCU. You should whip the props off till the tyres are sorted as well.
Given the coolant leak, you may want to prioritise things - once again to make sure you don't spend any wasted money.
All this though does no identify what is causing the clicking you are getting when reversing on lock. That obviously can have an impact on what you do. This clicking may be a (diff or VCU) support/mount but I'm thinking it isn't. I'm thinking its the IRD or rear diff. Investigation is needed.
I have had plenty of help and I am of course grateful, and Im sorry but ever since ive been on here Ive been ripped by certain members (usually the same idiots), who have nothing better to do that
yep
Turboman
Mab An Gov
- Posts
- 60,151
- Location
- Lathrowda, Kernow
It wasn't good enough to be quoted twice!
I haven't seen that you have had anyone rib you more than any other noob. And the people who have been taking the pee have also been helping you.
BTW, I suggest you don't swear outside AG, it upsets the boss, and the sponsors.
I was planning to replace all 4 anyway after reading (your post) re 'new owners must do' post and do the VCU 'test'. I wont actually be using the car until its sorted. As said, ill probably get it to the local LR specialist and see if they can work out where the 'noise' is coming from and the best (cheapest) course of action.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 25,252
- Location
- Christchurch, New Zealand
I hear the Federation Of Hairstylists are on a clean language drive.
It wasn't good enough to be quoted twice!
I haven't seen that you have had anyone rib you more than any other noob. And the people who have been taking the pee have also been helping you.
BTW, I suggest you don't swear outside AG, it upsets the boss, and the sponsors.
Apologies.
Turboman
Mab An Gov
- Posts
- 60,151
- Location
- Lathrowda, Kernow
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 32,504
- Location
- Near Newquay
Absolutely. The OP could have had my 2005 TD4 SE auto for £2.5K and she's mechanically perfect. Although I'm not actually selling it yet, but the OP could have waited and found a car like mine for similar money.
Turboman
Mab An Gov
- Posts
- 60,151
- Location
- Lathrowda, Kernow
Dunt bother me, but the boss dunt like it.
Just use my usual tone of language on here, didnt realise id be offending the hairdressers that frequent this forum.
Apologies to the boss then.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 32,504
- Location
- Near Newquay
A decent tank cradle is about £70 delivered in the UK.
The cradle is a bolt on job, with just 4 bolts.
Sadly there's a **** load of other stuff to unbolt and reattach once the cradle is replaced.
Great thanks. ill look into it.A decent tank cradle is about £70 delivered in the UK.
The cradle is a bolt on job, with just 4 bolts.
Sadly there's a **** load of other stuff to unbolt and reattach once the cradle is replaced.
Turboman
Mab An Gov
- Posts
- 60,151
- Location
- Lathrowda, Kernow
Doubt if she would have found one like yours for 950 quid, though.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 25,252
- Location
- Christchurch, New Zealand
Just make sure they know Freelanders, a lot of Land Rover specialists haven't got the knowledge to diagnose Freelander faults properly.
Good lord, didnt realise owning a freelander was gonna be such a task!
Not only do i need a landrover specialist i need a freelander specialist specialist!Good lord, didnt realise owning a freelander was gonna be such a task!
gold rover
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 10,132
- Location
- Scotland,
and its hoped that those of you in that instance are graceful enough not to just take the p*ss and help those less knowledgable.
I haven't read the rest of the disaster movie script yet , so someone may have already said the following.
No-one on here is obligated to help you, we/ they help because they want to. The price of that help is not the hundreds/thousands of pounds you will pay at a dealer's or a specialist indy. It's not even the hundreds of pounds for a bodge job by your pal with his own garage, or even the hundreds of pounds you will spend on your own tools and learning by your own mistakes.
The price for the expansive, collective knowledge and if necessary assistance, from those on LandyZone is quite cheap considering what you get. It is quite simply to suck up a little p*ss taking and a whole load of banter, from now until eternity, or your gaylander falls apart and you see sense and buy a Volvo.
The flip side is, if after copious amounts of information, from those who know, you ignore said advice and then get precious about a little banter, the collective will turn like a wounded animal and you will be hard pushed to ever get sensible advice again.
Personally, theses guys and girls have saved me thousands and saved the Golden Girl from eternal damnation several times. So I'd say a bit of p*ss taking is a fair price.
Hope the above helps you see things as they are.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 32,504
- Location
- Near Newquay
If the 2 on the front are matching and the 2 on the rear are matching. Then put the matching tyres on the same sides, with the least worn on the rear. This will, or has the best chance of equalizing the rolling radius of the tyres on the vehicle. It's not ideal, but will get OP out of a hole for a while.
