Viscous fan to electric

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robhtid

robhtid

Well-Known Member
Posts
272
Location
Blackpool
Hi im looking at removing my viscous fan from the td5 and replacing with a 14inch electric. I have the spanners available to me for the job but my question is...

Is removing the fan on it's own enough and will I just be left with a redundant thread or is the clutch system behind that? Basically if I'm taking it off I would rather I get rid of all the weight it holds on the turning of the engine while I do it rather than just removing the minimum to fit elecs. Thanks in advance
 
The unit is all on the fan itself. You can run a td5 without the fan in most uk weather with no real issues. My td5 ran at 94 without and its about 92 to 93 with it. Thats just one example journey to Tescos mind. Sitting in traffic with the AC on in 30 degree heat you may find a bigger difference. But you could just take it off for most of the year.
 
If you are up to risk your engine with the climateric changes these days go for it but if you'll drive it once the outside temp gets to 30*C no single electric fan can do the job and you'll end up with a HG failure... i've tried 3 types including a 250W /16" strong fan and went back to viscous cos the ECT reached 110*C uphill... the only safe way to convert to electric is with a double fan setup which is able to deliver at least 2500 CFM
 
My experience with converting to elec fans goes as follows,
200tdi no issues, but can get vhot off road at slow speed.
300tdi some issues, can get vhot off road at slow speed, also get vhot in traffic when the sun is doing its best to melt the tarmac
Td5 dont be bloody stupid
D3 see td5

If you have a/c on any of the above the potential for serious issues are greater
If you have performance intercooler (mainly td5) and a/c you really are asking for trouble.

14 inch is not big enough, even a 16 isnt up to the job, and has to run for some time to calm things down.
 
Curious but why going for electric? I have used them in the past, sometimes due to space constraints or on a conversion where it didn't have a viscous one to begin with (and being a sporting car). However for a Land Rover the viscous is IMO the best route. It just works... and you don't have to worry about it.
 
Ok well this sheds abit of light on things. Basically under normal weather and normal driving the temp gauge never sees halfway normally about 4pm to halfpast! In this weather going uphill from 30mph to motorway speeds it was passing the halfway climbing to arround 2.30pm so going electric was going to solve my cold mornings and get the oil heated quicker in the engine to try prolong its life and I thought they would improve the cooling when hot as I will be towing a caravan as soon as this is over and dont want to be overheating.

I'm not sure what would fit but would 2x14s or even 2x16s fit?

Also to the above, I've just fitted a full set of silicone hoses and was about to purchase an airtec intercooler to bring my egts down when pulling!
 
robhtid said:
Basically under normal weather and normal driving the temp gauge never sees halfway normally about 4pm to halfpast! In this weather going uphill from 30mph to motorway speeds it was passing the halfway climbing to arround 2.30pm s
Click to expand...
I dont really understand your description but first of all you should retrofit a temp gauge to see the actual engine temp, the factory gauge stays at the quarter up to 69*C then goes to the middle where it stays up to 119*C then above when it's usually too late, as you describe it can be a sensor misbehaviour too...for simplicity i recommend this https://www.ebay.com/itm/CYLINDER-H...ER-BEETLE-BLUE-LED-CHT-3M-SENSOR/311651133535 i checked one and it's reading is very close to the ECT(2-3* difference)... also try to stop the viscous fan with a rolled up newspaper 1 minute after cold start, if you can it's stuck so it takes longer for the engine to warm up
 
What I mean is if the gauge is on a clock face 6pm is sat on the pin and off and 12 is the top maximum if it goes that high
 
Do you think 2 electric fans is no good still. I was also thinking there is basically a lump with vairbleb restriction from the fan stuck on the crank and in my previous life In making things fast the lighter crank rods etc the better. I'm not trying to make it fast but I thought it would help the engine
 
Caroline 14inch high power fan is 220w and 2250cfm, I could fit 2 on variable stats one coming on before the other?

After googling it seems alot of people run no fan at all on these?
 
robhtid said:
What I mean is if the gauge is on a clock face 6pm is sat on the pin and off and 12 is the top maximum if it goes that high
Click to expand...
the gauge has only 3 positions beside bottom, at quarter(about 4.30 , 3 o'clock and above which as i said it's bad... so do you have any ideea at what temps is your engine running ?
robhtid said:
Do you think 2 electric fans is no good still.
Click to expand...
a dual fan setup might be OK as long as it delivers minimum 2500 CFM better more
 
sierrafery said:
and did those smart guys said what's the coolat temperature on theyrs ?
Click to expand...

No not at all its just something I've seen. I may look at duel fans with 4500cfm then set up on different stats to come on in stages.

I diddnt know there was only 3 levels. Mine is normally at the lowest then goes up to halfway when being worked in heat.

Ill get a gauge sorted for it when I get the fans!

I'm already getting an egt gauge because of you! And actually your the reason I'm getting a intercooler to bring my egts down a touch to try prolong its life!
 
Stick this in ebay (fans x2)

AeroLine Electric car radiator cooling fan , Universal 14 inch High Power 220w

Then this (stat on at 87 off at 82)

COOLING FAN THERMOSTAT ELECTRIC 38mm ID TOP HOSE WITH 30A RELAY

Then this (on at 92 off at 87)

Thermal Fan Switch Thermostat Electric Cooling Fan 38mm Defender/Discovery V8
 
I meant if there is some ready to fit dual fan setup, just fitting 2 fans without a proper cowl would not be good, the real thing is like the following(except the price, but that's a V8)

 
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Surely the cowel restricts airflow massively when the fans arent running.the viscous isnt coweld and surely 2x220w fans outperform the viscous
 
robhtid said:
the viscous isnt coweld
Click to expand...
check again cos it is, here's the lower side https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/99037/2547/cooling_fan_lower_cowl_td5_disco11 , and the upper is obvious, any pulling fan without cowl is innefficient hence all those vehicles which were factory fitted with dual fans have it, for example https://www.ebay.com/itm/Camaro1967...-fan-Include-Thermostat-Switch70/122017385881 (this was the first hit from a search with multiple results all with cowl)... the flow through the intercooler+condenser-radiator without a fan is minimal anyway and why would you need that as the fan kicks in when necessary... though i'll quit trying to convince you, go for what electric setup you want then watch the real ECT and you'll see ... just keep the viscous in the boot untill you are certain how it goes
 
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