VCU Torque test results

In the FAQs section there is a VCU torque test, which you can (should) carry out on a regular basis, so you get warning of an impending seizing VCU. This is designed to reduce the chances of screwing up your transmission and having to replace your IRD.
The main problem with this test, at the mo, is that there are no definitive figures as to what a "good" VCU will need to turn.
This is where yu guys with the misfortune of having a freelander can help yourself and others.
Do the torque test and post the results below. If you think your VCU is new, unknown, shagged or seized, post that as well, so we can tell what a known one gives.
The more peeps that can do this test, the more likely that a figure ( or more likely a range of figures) can be determined to enable this test to be a reliable and quantify-able test and be of significant value to others.

Go do it - your hippoo needs you!

I'm getting a brand new genuine one soon, I'll test it when I fit it & post results.

BigDaftAl said:

I'm getting a brand new genuine one soon, I'll test it when I fit it & post results.

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Genuine OE, Thats a Kings ransome is it not?

I dont understand why the torque test is required. If the viscose coupling has failed just replace because it will not drive the back wheels if it locks in place addmittedly it will be permanent four wheel drive but this should not break the transfer box. I have been told that early Freelanders before 2002 had incorrect gearing in the transfer box which causes the pinion wheel to break.

Cheers

Has anybody tried replacing the oil in the viscous coupling ie drill a hole in it tap a thread drain the oil and replace. This seem sensible as the feedback i get is that the oil needs changing.

beastsilver said:

I dont understand why the torque test is required. If the viscose coupling has failed just replace because it will not drive the back wheels if it locks in place addmittedly it will be permanent four wheel drive but this should not break the transfer box. I have been told that early Freelanders before 2002 had incorrect gearing in the transfer box which causes the pinion wheel to break.

Cheers

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Bollix -whoever told yu that knows Jack ****!

beastsilver said:

Has anybody tried replacing the oil in the viscous coupling ie drill a hole in it tap a thread drain the oil and replace. This seem sensible as the feedback i get is that the oil needs changing.

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sigh! pleeeeezz do a :search: - I aint gonna explain the last 4 years threads on here - no you cant - it aint oil.

Change the peeps yu listen to.:flame:

beastsilver: says on your profile that you are replacing a 'freelander transfer box' at the moment. Listen to MHM he knows his stuff. A seized viscous coupling will smash your IRD internals to pieces and very often your rear diff too for good measure. Yes post 2001 models are far more hardy but not invincible. Give yours a check, the torque test is a good test.

Viscous couplings dont cotain oil, they contain special custard #7. You can buy it in 3500032 Ltr containers from Ambrosia and use a specially trained earwig to replenish the coupling.

bigdenbailey said:

viscous couplings dont cotain oil, they contain special custard #7. You can buy it in 3500032 ltr containers from ambrosia and use a specially trained earwig to replenish the coupling.

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:d:d:d

I bought the freelander with the prop off and was told the transfer box had gone and the diff was ok. Thanks for the help it means I have to check the back diff, replace the coupling and buy a recon box. It saves me looking round scrap yards for a decent second hand box. Once I replace all this it does mean I have a decent Freelander however we have a second one with 50k on the clock so the torque test info will be great to see how this one is going.

Any update available on the torque setting of a fully operational VCU? Any and all info greatfully received!

You should be able to turn a good VCU by hand. Jack the front up, remove the joint between prop and transfere box. Grip the shaft and turn slowly. You should be able to turn it ever so slightly. If you start putting bars and things on wheel nuts to turn then you are increasing the sheer effect in the VCu thus making it harder to turn. Turn it slowly and it should move freeley.

rippedoff said:

You should be able to turn a good VCU by hand. Jack the front up, remove the joint between prop and transfere box. Grip the shaft and turn. You should be able to turn it ever so slightly.

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You have missed the point entirely - the idea is to get a series of definative measurements - not a general idea.... but it seems peeps arent interested .

Surley it is either siezed or not?????

rippedoff said:

Surley it is either siezed or not?????

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No!

No what? Im sure if your that interested in torque results then info can be got from LR or any VCU refurbisher. Im only interested in whether my VCU is siezed or not. I can turn mine by hand and it provides full 4wd when i need it too.

Your talking about things alot of people on here dont understand ie torque setting's and test's. I myself have worked in engineering all my life so i understand torque settings ect. This is probably why this thread is going no where. i also expect alot of people on here dont have the ability or tools to do said test, so my solution i feel is more likely to be tried if your worried about your VCU being siezed.

No - it is not a case of "siezed or not".
Without going too much into technicalities, the viscous fluid runs between plates with "teeth" (tabs or perforations) on. the fluid can break down over the years and cause a gradual breakdown in its ability to act as a dilitant fluid. The VCU can fail in two major ways......
1) by siezing solid causing potential catastrophic damage to other drive train components.
2) by not locking up at all and only providing two wheel drive.

It can also fail over a period of time. Hence the need for a set of figures to show the range of a "new" VCU, to highlight any breakdown in the fluids capacity to "lock up" the VCU and to show if the VCU has failed in its "Open circuit" mode - ie no drive through the device.
Just because you can turn one side relative to the other, does not mean it is working to its correct capacity.

Now do you understand "No!"

And LR and refurbishers do not have figures that they will/can release.

Oh right. So every other week im going to remove my VCU, but it on a bench, attach a torque wrench to it and do tests and measurements. While im at it i might aswell re-torque me head bolts and hub nuts.

So what figures have you come up with?

If you wish to, but I think that wopuld be a bit over the top, if not fookin' ridiculous. .
As for figures - none - coz no-one has bothered to post any. No loss to me, coz I havent a Gaylander any more, but I would have thought peeps might want to help themselves. Obviously I am wrong.
That was the purpose of this thread - to try and get some definitave figures.

Yes i do think your worng. The thing is, if your going to take the **** and you dont own a "gaylander", why bother trying to give advice which is nonsensical. Your over engineering a solution to a problem. Im more than aware of how a VCU works as i not only have one on my car but i have come across many within my work on manufacturing machinery. Never have i had to take torque settings to see whether they work or not. They either do or dont. If your freelander VCu turns by hand then its not siezed. If the 4wd system kicks in when there is slip at the front wheels then it works. I cant see where taking torque settings is going to solve anything, especially when there are no deffinative figuers to work too.

Over 40,000 posts doesn't make you right all the time.