VCU check

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Russell Jupp

Russell Jupp

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Location
Devon
Hi all, I know this subject has been thrashed to death in the past, so I'm sorry in advance for my post....wait for the torrent of abuse....BUT is there a definitive method of checking for a knackered VCU?
Just about to shell out for a new one for my 1.8 FL1, because I suspect that it is failing...
Thanks, Russ
 
Thanx, but now have conflicting suggestions between the tippex test, and tightness when reversing on full lock. Bell engineering say that the tippex test is a 'fallacy', as is jacking one wheel and trying to turn it. Most folk report that slight tightness on full lock is normal. I guess I'll just bite the bullet and replace it.
 
the ice and snow was a good test,if you gave throttle a quick jab the front wheels would spin a little then you would feel the car grip as the vcu locked the back wheels,if vcu "siezed" the front wheels wouldnt spin it would just grip. if in large empty icey/snowy car park if you get it right when your turning you can get it to drift when vcu kicks in,im sure somebody will tell me im talking pish but its how i tested mine
 
Thrasher...great thanx!! I thought the same so did just that!! Had some great 4 wheel drifts...all seems to point that its fine, but it is quite tight when on full lock - forwards or backwards. 4wd works fine, no noises / knocks or grinding sounds, but i am still terrified thats its going to explode and deposit lots of vile smelling oil on the ground. Does yours 'wind up' on full lock?
 
ive had no trouble with mine,yes its tight on full lock ie in car parks trying to park,and some times the tc light comes on if im reversing tightly backwards up a hill,but my tyres are all wearing at the same rate front and back, and thats normal as the vcu starts to work as the front and back wheels are going at different speeds when turning tightly,another test is drive for afew miles on a straight road then feel the vcu it should be cold still,if its hot its shot
 
a definate sign of a knackered VCU (too stiff) is if the rear tyres are worn in a wavey saw-tooth pattern and not smooth.
 
Hi All

Please can you help me too. I am brand new on this board and just taken delivery of a 2006 Freelander TD4 2 weeks ago.

I have been reading all these issues with VCU's - My question is that during all the snow and ice I could not get the front wheels to spin at all. All 4 wheels just gripped and traction was great, but is my 2006 TD4 VCU stuck in permenant 4WD

I called the dealer to ask, and the guy I spoke to was very vague and suggested that only the Freelander2 would behave like this and that a 2006 Freelander1 has permenant 4WD.

I am not sure this is true from what I have read here.

Sorry for such a newbie question, but I just wanted to check that my new pride and joy is working as it should.

Very impressed with the vehicle so far.

Thanks to all who respond.

Ed.
FL 2006 TD4 Sport


I
 
The 'tippex test' will definately tell you if the VCU is siezed or not if its siezed the two marks will remain lined up, if its not ,they will move apart.
 
Hi,

I hope this helps,

I have just bought an 02 td4 with 66k and flrsh i have been reading more and more about vcu's and starting to get slightly paranoid about it.
On my one full lock is a bit stiff and in a gravelly car park you can hear the rear wheels just grinding in the gravel on a slow pull away, in the snow if i gave it some welly you could feel the fronts start to spin and then the rears would bite and the whole thing gripped and roared off and thats with 4mm on fronts and 3mm on back.
Another thing on most front wheel drives on full lock and ticking over you can feel engine note drop as if meeting a resistance does this effect just feel worse on a freelander?
Soes does anyone know if drive is always given to rears or only if fronts start to spin and if so whats the percentage split?

Cheers
 
Cheers for the link, that explains it nicely.
Whats the lifespan of these vcu's or does vary greatly with use and maintenance, at 66k miles is it worth a pre-emptive replacement? it could be cheaper in the long run.
 
They're supposed to get hot (to a point), it's part of the viscosity dynamics. There are graphs somewhere.

also some good vids on youtube

Some chav arsing about, good vcu test

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xC_6waf34Xw"]YouTube- Drift @ London city landrover freelander 4x4[/ame]
 
Thesilverfox said:
Hi,

I hope this helps,

I have just bought an 02 td4 with 66k and flrsh i have been reading more and more about vcu's and starting to get slightly paranoid about it.
Click to expand...

Got as paranoid as you so have just changed mine pre-emptively at 70K. Felt it was getting a little stiff although by no means seized.

You can get a recon from Bell Engineering for £200 (with 12 month guarantee).....which is a lot cheaper than waiting for it to tighten fully and take out the IRD. From what I've heard the oily/play dough stuff inside is good for about 70k.
 
The thing to note from the link posted by Northern Islander is the high torque needed to rotate the back axle against the VCU This explains the general tightness of the transmission in anything other than a straight line.
If you are giong to go ahead with the replacement then it would be useful if you did a before and after comparison. Do remember that the torque resistance does depend on how fast you rotate wheel. If you can't do a measured torque test try just rotating the wheel itself, also do it before driving the vehicle to give a broadly similar temperature.
Let us know your impressions
 
Ed

There is nothing in your post that suggests a problem with your car. You may wish to check the operation of your VCU by using the two easy methods, the tippex test and the ashcroft test. Both are fairly simple, the tippex test is easy but by no means infallable.

Cheers

Blippie
 
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