various problems p38 2.5 97

hi guys

had my p38 2.5 dse r reg 97 without egr auto scanned and it had looged a few faults so here goes

i suddenly got the alternator fault come up on dash after starting, no rev guage and all suspension lights on a quick switch off and on again and it cure it im getting the multimeter out to check charge rate i expect to see around 14v with full load on vehicle

secondly i get gearbox fault shows up and then again a quick turn off and on and it has gone. and when selecting drive it will sometimes stall, im going to change the oil and filter to see if this helps

thirdly i have to give two glow plug warm ups in the morning and it will start during the day one start is ok

im driving it very sensible and only getting around 17.5 mpg around town

when scanned this evening i got these faults

1. fuel quantity actuator
2. boost pressure sensor
3. ecm processor link failure 1-2
4. glow plug control

the faults that keep reappearing are fuel quantity actuator and glow plug control and boost pressure sensor

i would like to sort out these problems asap as it is my daily drive

im going to test the glow plugs on the weekend and put a new set in im hoping this will cure the glow plug control fault

then i will change the fuel filter and see if this helps with fuel economy

as with the others faults im baffled a search on here hasnt really helped alot im looking for starters to check etc she drives fine and goes like stink compared to other diesel p38 i veiwed and drove


im at a loose end as my partner said dont buy it due to problem but i love it and wont part but she is now driving me crazy saying i bought a dud

any help would be great

many thanks matt

What diagnosic system was used to scan you vehicle???

If your vehicle has been chipped and "goes like stink" I suggest that a lighter right foot might help increase the mpg.

as far as im aware it hasnt been chipped cant see no boxes near fuel pump etc even if i poodle along like 25 in 30 etc with very light right foot im still getting 18mpg around town i understand this is not normal and with the fuel quantity actuator fault im beginning to link them am i looking in the right direction

the scanner was socio pc

Forget the socio system you need to get the vehicle hooked up to a Faultmate, Testbook or Rovacom to read all the codes correctly.

Regarding the mpg the only way to get a true mpg, is to brim to brim the tank and work out the mpg. The vehicles on board computer is a little un-reliable to say the least...

Theres two types of chipping, a plug-in powerbox or a new super-chip is soldered into the engine ecm.

Cool thanks for that well she has done half a tank to 140miles surely this isn't normal I was hoping near 350 miles to a tank


Best I got off to the local land rover specialist not unleas someone in norfolk has a diagonstic machine

I am the proud owner of a '99 DSE, and I drive probably 65% fairly gentle and 35% booting past teenage tw&ts in stupid euro-boxes, I have a receipt from Janspeed when I bought the Car the indicates an ECU remapping....but not confirmed, although with a boot to the floor it takes off like a scalded whippet..!!!

I am so far averaging 26.3mpg on Brim to Brim technique (message centre MPG constantly shows 99.9 and Range 999miles - annoying but hey ho) and I have just burned a third of the tank (as indicated on fuel gauge) and done 172 miles thus far. From my reckoning on a 19.8 gallon (90 litre) totally full to totally empty tank I should get 500 miles @ 26MPG but the useable quantity in a tank is far less then the total capacity, so knock 20% off that figure and I reckon arounf the 400-430 miles per tank is achievable.

Sounds like the main culprit on your fault readings for such naff MPG is the Manifold Boost Pressure sensor....this is fed the Manifold pressure using a thin plastic tube from under the inlet manifold to a small pressure sensor on top of the fuel canister in the engine bay, and is notorious for getting either bunged up or split, this sensor feeds the engine ECM with boost pressure information from the Turbo, and adjust fuel quantity to match the induction air quantity from the MAF and the induction air pressure from the Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensor....as Pressure and Volume are related using some clever blokes formula (Boyles I believe - which was later combined with some more clever blokes to create the Combined Gas Law equation) the ECM can introduce the correct amount of fuel to burn efficently within a given amount of air. If your MAP sensor is issuing incorrect information, the fueling will be out and this could be a reason for poor economy.

Could be a good place to start.....

Thanks saint.v8 I'll have a good look around that area I will probably throw a new pipe and sensor at it fo the sake of 50notes

Do I class as a young one in a eurobox I'm only 24 haha I shuld have got one years ago I'm a mechanic so I'll be getting the spanners dirty tomorrow it just a shame I dnt have a scanner that will work on my rangie where I work I'm gona take the intercooler off and clean it up also check intercoolers pipes for delamination

I am only 33 and have spent my time in a few tw&t cars before I succumbed to the lure of the Green Oval 12 years ago.

Well today I changed the leak off pipes and the glow plugs upon testing I found three not working so this explains the glow plug fault

Changed fuel filter and airfilter seems to pull better also done the pollen filters which where black and fully clogs the vents are more powerful now

Just got to change the oils and filters and I shuld be ok

Went to the local 4x4 garage today and got an autologic scan and it pulled up the fuel quantity actuator apparently it is the injection pump can anyone confirm this or can I do so tests myself the woman indoors won't be happy if I tell her it fubar she will go nuts

Any help would b great

ok so as some are aware i have put a recon pump on myself but it still doesnt seem right had it read and it comes up with injection timing deviation

any ideas
possible timing issue?

matt1987 said:

Well today I changed the leak off pipes and the glow plugs upon testing I found three not working so this explains the glow plug fault

Changed fuel filter and airfilter seems to pull better also done the pollen filters which where black and fully clogs the vents are more powerful now

Just got to change the oils and filters and I shuld be ok

Went to the local 4x4 garage today and got an autologic scan and it pulled up the fuel quantity actuator apparently it is the injection pump can anyone confirm this or can I do so tests myself the woman indoors won't be happy if I tell her it fubar she will go nuts

Any help would b great

Click to expand...

yep confirm your worst fears,it does sound like injector pump, quite common on these,big job bloody expensive(600 for a recon if you can find one) but surely you can adjust the pump to take up the wear,my mechanic will change the pump,but wants to change the cam chain as well,big job,could mean the end for mine,it has only done 124,000 miles,**** compared to other diesels dissapointed to say the least.
would i buy another no, but while i have had it,have enjoyed the experience. many more may benefit if i throw it up for spares

well roddy

i have done the pump and took up the slack etc but now i get this injection deviation issue seem really sluggish at start off under 2k i mean like no go even foot flat to the floor, any further and i will b a flintstone

im going to have a word where i got the pump from see if they can shed some light i think it maybe the timing slightly out or to far advanced and it only on idle i get current fault on running it goes past and back on idle it is current seems timing to me

but i would expect wammer or data to know

Right after many weekends under the bonnet I have now sorted the gglow plug fault fip fault injection deviation.fault the only one sticking is the boost pressure sensor any ideas?

Right I have now sorted the fuel pump fault and the glow plug fault the only one that remains now is the boost pressure anyone got any ideas on where to start all hoses etc are ok no splits or delaminating etc I'm now spent the last 3weekends under the bonnet and I'm slowly getting at these faults I'm getting more mpg and it is running very smooth so I'm very happy just need boost sensor fault sorting she doesn't loose boost etc drives lovely

Any ideas

The boost pressure sensor (MAP) is mounted near the fuel filter and takes it's reading from a black hose coming from under the intake manifold.

Thanks for the info I have checked the pipework etc are there any electrical values I need to check or is it a case of changing the map sensor

matt1987 said:

ok so as some are aware i have put a recon pump on myself but it still doesnt seem right had it read and it comes up with injection timing deviation

any ideas
possible timing issue?

Click to expand...

Sounds like you have not got the timing right on the replacement pump, otherwise look at injector number 4 needle lift sensor.
Get yourself a Faultmate (Blackbox solutions) for the diagnostics, you can look at live engine data to see what is going on