vandalised paintwork

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supapete

Active Member
Posts
505
Location
West wing I think
Sorry if this is overposting. Mr moderator, wipe me out if so.:confused:
I hate painting/spraying/preparation and am absolutely rubbish at it, which is the reason
I hate it. Having had attention paid to my black range rover by the local unsupervised artists,
I bought a Halfords three bottle touch-in kit.I used the "special tool" to scrub the areas and then
went on to the primer and built it up to the paint level. I then used the "special tool" to flat the
primer off which did absolutely diddley. I bought a sheet of 1000 wet n dry and flatted the areas
off. I tried using the paint brush in the finish bottle which was akin to a spider's leg. In short,
I've got a load of botched up patches with a periphery of flatted off original black. I've done a search
on painting, but I need someone to get me out of jail with some out and out basics.The areas vary between
1mm and 8/9mm and between 50cm and 110cm in length. Please can you guys help me out? regards all. P.S:(
 
Thanks for the response. I'm such an ignoramus on this subject I had to make enquiries as to what T-cut did. It strikes me, from what you say, that even a hash that I've made is recoverable as long as I "blend in". I'm off to get a spray can soon and T-cut and blend away. You haven't thrown your arms up in horror at what I've done thus far which is quite encouraging. On the bright side, the primer isn't showing through any more so, even with the pig's ear I've made, black-all-over looks good from a distance! I'm in Anglesey. I'll update my profile straight away. regards P.S:)
 
On the bright side, the primer isn't showing through any more so, even with the pig's ear I've made, black-all-over looks good from a distance! I'm in Anglesey. I'll update my profile straight away. regards P.S:)

Good! Primers tend to be more porous than colour coats and lacquer.

Everyone makes mistakes the first few times they use a spray can - here's some basic pointers from the limited stuff I've done before:

First thoroughly wipe down the area you're going to spray with some meths and paper towel, don't use cloth and definitely not a chamois as there are usually oil or detergent residues in them which is what you're trying to get rid of - there are specialist solvents and panel prep stuff you can buy, but with a Halfrauds spray can you're not going to notice the difference I reckon.

Now mask off anything outside of the area you want to spray with newspaper and decorators masking tape - basically, anything you don't want a fine patina of black spray on, cover it up, especially the glass and the light filters as they're the biggest pain in the ass to clean. I've found it's best to leave an area two or three times as large as the area you 'need' to spray to cover imperfections, so that you don't spray directly over the edges of any tape - this leaves a line that you then have to flat or t-cut out. Obviously, if you're only covering a 5p piece, you'll need to leave a proportionally bigger area than that. Bear in mind that anything you don't cover up will, even though you're sure it won't, get spray on it somehow.

Shake the can for twice as long as the instructions on the tin tell you to, once shaken use it straight away - if you put the can down for more than a minute, give it another good shake before you spray again.

Never press the spray nozzle down while the can is stationary! Can't emphasise that bit enough. Start the can moving in a left to right sweep and only start spraying whilst the can is in motion - let go of the nozzle before you stop moving and then repeat from right to left. Lots of sweeps because you're moving the can too fast is better than moving the can too slowly.

Stop spraying as soon as the area is covered in paint - again, can't emphasise that enough - several thin and even coats of paint will look a hell of a lot better than one fat thick one.

Always allow the paint to dry thoroughly before touching it, flatting it or polishing it - might sound obvious, but you'd be surprised how many people test to see if the paint's dry yet by touching it on the piece they've just spent ages painting - if it isn't you'll be polishing a fingerprint off it before you spray it again. Having a 'test bit' that you spray immediately after finishing on the car - any old bit of metal will do, biscuit tin, cigar tube etc. - can save a lot of elbow grease.

I prefer to t-cut than flat using wet and dry - it's a lot slower, but I'm always worried I'll take off too much of the thin coat of paint I've just put on - your call there, which ever you feel happiest with. If you use wet and dry, you'll get a much better finish if you use it wet than dry.

Repeat all of the above for the 2nd (and 3rd if you can be bothered) coats... putting one or two coats of clear gloss lacquer over the panel once you've finished with the colour coats makes it a much tougher (as in harder wearing, not difficult) job and more resistant to chipping/fading.

Hope that helps you some ;)

Cheers,
 
as adz said but i would use a proper bodyshop panel wipe (like the bodyline stuff available from most motor factors) i normaly apply a couple of coats then use some p1500 wet and dry to flat the paint then another coat (leave it to dry between each coat), then laquer if i can be bothered (depends on the car as some cars original laquer will react with aftermarket stuff) then mop the whole pannel with compound or machine polish
 
:)What an informative thread this's turned out to be. I can only say thankyou very much. As the jobs I've done so far have cropped up I've printed out the relevant pages from the download manual sourced from zone and put them in those girly wallets, plus other printouts also indicated from zone. I'm about to do the same with all the replies on this thread. Believe me, I'm going for the fattest workshop manual ever. When I've finished, I'll do a bit of photoshopping and get redrange jealous. Thanks again all. best regards P.S:p:p
 
Good! Primers tend to be more porous than colour coats and lacquer.

Everyone makes mistakes the first few times they use a spray can - here's some basic pointers from the limited stuff I've done before:

First thoroughly wipe down the area you're going to spray with some meths and paper towel, don't use cloth and definitely not a chamois as there are usually oil or detergent residues in them which is what you're trying to get rid of - there are specialist solvents and panel prep stuff you can buy, but with a Halfrauds spray can you're not going to notice the difference I reckon.

Now mask off anything outside of the area you want to spray with newspaper and decorators masking tape - basically, anything you don't want a fine patina of black spray on, cover it up, especially the glass and the light filters as they're the biggest pain in the ass to clean. I've found it's best to leave an area two or three times as large as the area you 'need' to spray to cover imperfections, so that you don't spray directly over the edges of any tape - this leaves a line that you then have to flat or t-cut out. Obviously, if you're only covering a 5p piece, you'll need to leave a proportionally bigger area than that. Bear in mind that anything you don't cover up will, even though you're sure it won't, get spray on it somehow.

Shake the can for twice as long as the instructions on the tin tell you to, once shaken use it straight away - if you put the can down for more than a minute, give it another good shake before you spray again.

Never press the spray nozzle down while the can is stationary! Can't emphasise that bit enough. Start the can moving in a left to right sweep and only start spraying whilst the can is in motion - let go of the nozzle before you stop moving and then repeat from right to left. Lots of sweeps because you're moving the can too fast is better than moving the can too slowly.

Stop spraying as soon as the area is covered in paint - again, can't emphasise that enough - several thin and even coats of paint will look a hell of a lot better than one fat thick one.

Always allow the paint to dry thoroughly before touching it, flatting it or polishing it - might sound obvious, but you'd be surprised how many people test to see if the paint's dry yet by touching it on the piece they've just spent ages painting - if it isn't you'll be polishing a fingerprint off it before you spray it again. Having a 'test bit' that you spray immediately after finishing on the car - any old bit of metal will do, biscuit tin, cigar tube etc. - can save a lot of elbow grease.

I prefer to t-cut than flat using wet and dry - it's a lot slower, but I'm always worried I'll take off too much of the thin coat of paint I've just put on - your call there, which ever you feel happiest with. If you use wet and dry, you'll get a much better finish if you use it wet than dry.

Repeat all of the above for the 2nd (and 3rd if you can be bothered) coats... putting one or two coats of clear gloss lacquer over the panel once you've finished with the colour coats makes it a much tougher (as in harder wearing, not difficult) job and more resistant to chipping/fading.

Hope that helps you some ;)

Cheers,

Well done sir

Riggaz
 
:) Done the first application. Got the confidence to stop worrying about this. Couple of blemishes owing to ill preparation, but cracked it pretty well. Thanks and thanks again.:)
 
how bad were the gorges?? , them animal right bstds did mine over a few weeks back..gonna top 'em all...fk pigs....;) boooooooooooom!

anyhow, mine looks like they did the figure skating championship on it....what ya recon?? any good !!

(any one got a strong bull bar to fit disco ,for coursing.....hippy's & animal right acty's..:D dont ya love it when they squeeel !!! :cool: )
 
All my motors have been systematically destroyed. They chuck a brick here, elbow the bonnet there, scratch a door with a stone here, boot the door handles off there, boot the wing mirrors off here, smash wheel trims there. The police write it down on a fag packet and clear off. You think it's animal rights idiots? Doubtful. It's more likely the yobs who love causing trouble that have infiltrated the movement. They do it because they've been motivated to perpetuate unrest, paid to do it and/or they just like it.
Anyway, enough of that. As it happens I've finished my first painting lesson and It's nothing like as hard as I feared.Dry day, so I'm a polishing. I wish all the errors I make in life could be wet n dry'd or T-cutted out as readily. regards all. P.S
 
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