Series 3 Looking for a classic ladrover repair garage in South Wales

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Hi all can anybody tell me if there is a decent landrover repair garage or mobile guy in or around South Walles I can go from Pontypool or Swansea areas if possible looking to repair a serious oil leak think it's a failed seal and also a slow starter checked starter motor which is fine .Earth looks fine but can't figure out how to replace the solonoeid ( which I have a new one) All help really appreciated but I do think this is a garage job due to the leak Many thanks Nick
Thanks I am new to landrovers its my first one I done an oil change and made it worse but it covered with oil on the front crossmember before I starred the oil filter I got came with just one seal ( the big round one) I can't find out where to get the oil drain seal and the bolt seal that holds the Canister ? The landrover is stuck in Pontypool at the moment to bad an oil leak to drive ? I will try and attach some picture but I live in Swansea won't be back till next week it is leaking while engine is running and not running which is odd because I thought oil drips under pressure ?
I actually looked at the part that had oil on it ( there are 2 leaks) it's the flywheel housing that's dripping oddly I found a post you put up about doing it in situ but couldn't open the link that you gave someone so I think it's the crank seal and the oil filter nit sealed properly many thanks Nick if you had the link it would be much appreciated and where to get the seal it the 2/4 petrol 1973 version Thanks again
The filter seals can leak badly if not installed properly , the crank seal not so much, the housing has a plug that can retain the oil until you want to drain it off
This website has the parts book so you can check for part numbers and the workshop manual

The filter is above pump but full of oil so need to catch it in bowl, it’s an easy fix
I had a filter holder from a 2.5NA diesel engine to my 2.25 diesel engine when it was rebuilt.

These take a modern self contained canister filter.

I believe the petrol block is the same. As far as I know one of these holders should be an easy swap.
Thanks guys I am slightly confused with the plug on the housing .The filter I replaced has a long bolt running through the cannister I didn't know the bolt had a seal as the filter I bought of ebay didn't come with a seal for that bolt only the round one you slot into a groove which I am sure I got correct ? All I can say is when I bought the landrover I drove it from Exeter to Swansea in Wales . It had no problems ( apart from steering all over the place which I think might be tracking ) when I got to Wales the green pil pressure light came on which I immediately checked and found the oil was very low . I then decided to do an oil change I put 5 litres of the oil recommended in the manual ( I know it takes over that but I am waiting fir the next 5 liters to arrive . But as u said when I went underneath to remove the old filter the engine was covered in what looked like thick greasy oil ? Another thing I did was top up the gear box oil but didn't get to the transfer box as yet .Also the landrover has an overdrive installed. All the information I found shows it should have a dipstick to check it but I couldn't find it I did spot a hole ( not the breather) that looks like it has been filled with white rubber silicone ? As I said I am new to this so I took of the top plate of the overdrive unit and topped it up that way ? Probably totally the wrong way but could not find the filler anywhere on overdrive unit .Hence I would rather an expert look at it as I have never had a vehicle that holds so much oil in my life ? As Steve stated the driveseal ( if that's what it is leaking ws leaking badly even parked up ? ) there are 2 patches of oil that landed on the road one from the oil filter section and the other from the mid section of the engine so I now have 2 buckets under it . What I am thinking is when I bought the vehicle the oil was quite low but not serious the minute I put 5 liters into it it started leaking ? When I bought the vehicle I looked at the man's driveway and not a single drop was on it ? But as I said the engine was soaked underneath including the bottom of the oil sump ( this is before I done the oil change ) I am trying to get my Mrs to take some pictures as it's outside her house at the moment .
First thing DONT PANIC…. All series leak oil! It’s a shock now for you but most of us just grin and bear it until it’s get too bad then action reqd.

Any oil leak underneath gets everywhere as you drive even back door and windows 😀

It’s the flywheel housing that has a tapped hole and you can fit a little plug (wading plug) which will stop the oil dripping out from rear crank seal ….
no 4 above
On the overdrive it does have a dipstick on the passenger side you will see a 3/4” nut when removed it has the dipstick underneath it, too check level the nut need to be screwed right in by hand and you will see a mark about 15mm from end of dipstick . Need to remove middle seat and cover to get to it

Webleys tip a good one saves a bit faff , but a tip for renewing the oil seal in groove ,oil it first , and turn canister as you tighten it up but don’t overtighten.

Hopefully you didn’t drive too far with green oil light on
Thanks Steve that's really useful firstly no I didn't drive far with it on I will ask my Mrs to take a picture of the overdive top and you will see the silicone ( white dot someone has put there ) do you know where I can get the wading plug from ? I am buying most of my stuff from ebay regards the oil canister yes I think I did over tighten it infact well overtightened it I have another oil filter on its way bit curious if you bunged uo the hole as you said would that nit eventilually effect the clutch ? So glad I joined this site great advice very much appreciated to all the responses Nick

Nice pic of overdrive with a link to the manual , you can see the big nut which is the dipstick.

Yes don’t bung up hole and leave it , just open up every couple of weeks or more to drain oil

Most landy places will sell the wading plug or ebay, have a look through the parts book to get numbers for your bits

Silicon on top plate of overdrive probably blocking the breather hole
Sorry to trouble you again what do I have to remove to get access to fit the wading plug I am presuming propshaft etc ? Thanks again Just to also add I have a slow starter sometimes it's quick then it's slow ? I pulled the starter apart it has 4 bushes all looked OK ( what a job to get it back in though) but it looked OK to me I have a new solonoied but I couldn't get to it due to where it is and weather ( rain was hamnering down ) will have another go but was curious if this could be the problem of the intermittent starting ? It has an earth strap running off the starter running from the chassis to the starter motor mounting bolt it is oily and dirty under there but the strap was very secure I bought the wrong bushes as it came as a pair not like the 4 that are already in their? Any advice on that would be appreciated as well that is the only problems thus landriver has the engine runs sweet idles nicely and has lots of power fir a kandriver lol
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Nothing , the hole is next to crossmember probably get to it without even jacking up, if you did have a plug it has about 1/2” square on it I use a little adjustable spanner
Unfortunately many parts which are listed as fitting are incorrect to what you may have.
Step back, clean everything up and do a list to save money and get parts from one supplier.
Be aware its an endless job owning a Series Land Rover.
Yes I am beginning to see that .I have owned VW buses including a 65 VW splitscreen but the ex got it through the divorce along with a great selection of Snap on tools for the lucky new guy lol but I read the landrover can't be used daily I actually disagree as you said allot of work which I intend to do ( losing the garage was a bummer but don't mind lying in puddles) I will put up a screen shot of the Landy I bought there is rust in places but I can weld which is a bonus . I put £45.00 in the tank to get from Exeter to pontypool around 100 miles and used half the tank so I was very impressed because all I was reading before I bought it was fuel consumption . Yes they are sparce but who needs 20 dashboard lights on a modern car I will be doing this one up to hopefully a very good standard aa I believe they will and always will hold their prices if not rise in the coming years plus they are fun to drive people do look ( not that I am bothered it's not for showing off its to keep something which I feel is a very iconic vehicle on the road I thank you all once again fir the advice especially the wading bolt which I would never of known or found? As fir the starter motor being intermittent I will have to work forwards from the ignition I suppose


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big shame about that, snap on tools a big loss! Welding ability definitely a good skill to have. What’s going on with starter, not engaging , slow to turn, just clicks, screeching noise?
Have a search on this forum you might well find the answer

100mile a good test run
With regards to the starter I would bypass the ignition and use a jump lead or two to test it direct from battery. If it works fine then work backwards from there.
I faffed around on our starter on the 2a, it needed a new starter. Little bit more straightforward as it had a starter button.
big shame about that, snap on tools a big loss! Welding ability definitely a good skill to have. What’s going on with starter, not engaging , slow to turn, just clicks, screeching noise?
Have a search on this forum you might well find the answer

100mile a good test
I know sweated it all the way no AA or RAC recovery hell of a risk took some basic tools but she made it as regards the tools etc I am sure there are some guys on here been through the same thing my motto now is Wife is replaceable but vehicles and tools are not lol