P38A Valve block

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
pete12345

pete12345

Well-Known Member
Full Member
Posts
2,427
Location
Isle Sheppy
I'm replacing the o rings on my valve block and can't rember I've two of the NRV valves went in one way with one up the other way desperately seeking advise here as trying to put it back together cheers 1999 Thor vogue
 
That's what I was looking at through wammers tec help section and the picture in that shows 1 up the other way I will find out in morning when I put it back on the car cheers
 
pete12345 said:
That's what I was looking at through wammers tec help section and the picture in that shows 1 up the other way I will find out in morning when I put it back on the car cheers
Click to expand...

It is critical that they go back in the correct place. You should either service and replace one at a time or mark them in relation to their position. If you have taken them off with no reference to position. You will have to follow the wiring diagram to identify each ones position in relation to their pin positions on the plug for all solenoid valves. DO NOT over tighten the valve retaining screws, doing that can deform the bases and cause leaks. If deformed they can be flattened by gentle rubbing in a figure of eight pattern on a piece of 320 grit wet or dry on a flat surface.
 
Last edited:
Thanks wammers been reading your guide put the block back together now got air coming from the compressor but still no lift in the bags run the car for 10 mins with the door open then shut it no joy tho so going to check the relay under the seat is the any way I could pinpoint it a bit more with my nanocom all it says is invalid fault code
 
pete12345 said:
Thanks wammers been reading your guide put the block back together now got air coming from the compressor but still no lift in the bags run the car for 10 mins with the door open then shut it no joy tho so going to check the relay under the seat is the any way I could pinpoint it a bit more with my nanocom all it says is invalid fault code
Click to expand...

It all depends how much air you have coming from compressor. First thing you need is good pressure have you checked that. Clear the code. Select standard first thing that should rise is rear then front then slight adjustments to standard height. What are the state of the lamps on the selector switch? Have you done the check for leaks from diaphragm valve whilst compressor is running? With door open compressor should fill tank and stop in 5 or 6 minutes. If it's not doing that look at compressor.
 
Cleared fault compressor sucking in air good and blowing out good and no air from exhaust on block valve light on switch just flashes all the time when door closed to standed height from constant orange light on bottom setting
 
pete12345 said:
Cleared fault compressor sucking in air good and blowing out good and no air from exhaust on block valve light on switch just flashes all the time when door closed to standed height from constant orange light on bottom setting
Click to expand...

Does the compressor stop with door open? Does it force air past your finger when you cover the outlet?
 
pete12345 said:
It keeps running with the door open and pushes air past finger yer
Click to expand...

Then you are losing pressure somewhere. With the door open from empty it should fill the tank and stop in 5 or 6 minutes. Then still with engine running when you shut the door it should rise then compressor should start again to replenish tank and stop when it's done so. You need at the very least 60 PSI in the tank to raise the car. Lamps on dash are normal. When you first start the car you should get all the lamps lit on the selector switch. When the system has done it's checks you should then get what you have, at lamp solid go to lamp flashing. With good air pressure car should rise when it gets to selected height access lamp should go out and standard lamp go solid on. You have no air find the leak. Air from compressor goes into fill/exhaust gallery over sealed diaphragm valve. Out of block into drier then back into block via a 8 mm pipe. Then past NRV 1 into tank feed pipe number 6 to tank. Look at the 8 mm connections to block and drier, at 6 mm connections to block of #6 and connections to tank.
 
Last edited:
Ok will check all the connections again I fitted the refurbished compressor Thursday everything fine it filled the tank used the car fri all good sat afternoon driving home started to get 35 bump stops will get underneath and check the tank connections and all the bags again because it's making air so it's going somewhere thanks for your help
 
pete12345 said:
Ok will check all the connections again I fitted the refurbished compressor Thursday everything fine it filled the tank used the car fri all good sat afternoon driving home started to get 35 bump stops will get underneath and check the tank connections and all the bags again because it's making air so it's going somewhere thanks for your help
Click to expand...

Ok good luck. Compressor whilst high pressure 175 PSI possible, is very low volume so it does not take much of a leak to give problems. If it is good and never stops you are losing air somewhere that's for sure. Just a thought if you have stripped the block you do have NRV 1 in the correct way round?
 
Last edited:
Ad a look underneath the old girl the bags are all squashed down is there any way of jacking it up so the bags straighten out a bit so I can check them properly because one of the front bags looks like it could have a split but can't see it good
 
pete12345 said:
Ad a look underneath the old girl the bags are all squashed down is there any way of jacking it up so the bags straighten out a bit so I can check them properly because one of the front bags looks like it could have a split but can't see it good
Click to expand...

Bags and lines to them will only come into the equation when the door is shut and air is fed to them. If they have no air they cannot leak. Problem you have is you are not getting air into the tank in the first place. The leak or blockage has to be between the compressor and the tank. The fill system is a totally difference function to the bag inflation side, they are not connected. If you have good air pressure from the compressor but it never shuts down, air pressure is not getting to the pressure switch which is why i asked if you have NRV 1 in the wrong way round. Or there is a big leak between the compressor and NRV 1. Feed to drier, return to block or drier itself. Look at the NRV block orientation in the link, check yours are the same.
 
I've check my block solenoids and fink I may have found the problem not sure I had a air plunger type 1 in the wrong place it was in the exhaust port would that stop it putting air through to the tank
 
pete12345 said:
Sorry wammers not the exhaust it was on the inlet solenoid port what a moron hope Mabey that will cure it
Click to expand...

Having the exhaust and inlet transposed would certainly cause problems. You need to check and double check that everything in the valve block is in the correct place. Just follow the diagram in the link.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

rover75lover
L322 rear left air valve fault (sorted)
Replies
0
Views
479
rover75lover
rover75lover
B
P38A 1996 4.6 Auto HSE. driver side bags not inflating after valve block rebuild.
Replies
17
Views
1K
nigelbb
N
Montyjohn
P38A A couple of queries about rebuild EAS valve block
Replies
9
Views
850
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
J
P38A p38 EAS - immediate drop of pressure
Replies
11
Views
718
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
Mph007365
Eas valve block rebuild
Replies
6
Views
1K
Datatek
Datatek
Back
Top