V8i non starter

Morning,

last night I went to start the landy and I noticed that when I turned the key to position 1 I didn't hear the usual fuel pump priming followed by the little click of a relay 2 seconds later.

I tried turning her over anyway and the starter spins but she won't start, its like she's getting no fuel, if someone turns her over whilst I spray easy start into the air intake she will attemp to start and you can hear the combustion in the cylinders through the exhaust as the easy start is burning adding more weight to my no fuel pump theory.

Before I go poking around I wondered what you fellas thoughts were? And where to start looking (fuse/relay etc)?

Cheers.

In the boot open up the inspection hole and turn ignition on. No noise means no pump. Replace fuse/relay/pump in the order tbh.

Check the voltage at the pump. Mine had dropped to 8v at the pump. Gave all the symptoms of a pump on the way out but when I checked the resistance between the relayy and the pump it was at 7kohms! Ran a new wire from the inertia switch to the pump and it's good as new. Oh, also check your inertia switch hasn't tripped. It's hidden behind the screenwash bottle

cheers fellas will start to get on it now the kids are back at school, I will order a multimeter and try to start to get my head round electrics.

The inspection hatch looks like its never been off and the screws look firmly rusted in so im sure that will be fun getting it off, I will prob end up cutting new grooves in them with the dremel and then try using a large flat headed screwdriver to shift them, ive already coated them with a load of WD40. RE heat: I have a very small mini blowtorch would it be safe to try to heat the screws up from above if they wont shift or is it too close to the fuel tank?

I checked the underbonnet fuel pump fuse and its still good, and as far as I can tell the inertia switch is ok also, which relay is it that I have to check behind the drivers kick panel? also how do I check it (or do I just buy a new one?) presumably I wire electric up to it and listen for the click?

Any help will be greatly appreciated and the simpler the explanation the better please as I know nothing about electrics at all and could do with all the help I can get.

Cheers again fellas.

Ugh. You've reminded me of another thing I have to fix. I mullah'ed my inspection hatch trying to get it off last year. Same deal : just one or two of the screw heads were badly corroded.

I wouldn't use heat - not 'cause you're near the tank but because the screws go into nylon inserts in the main panel IIRC. Using 20:20 hindsight I should've have persevered with the chisel on the edge of the screw head to get it moving. Or cut new slots as you suggest.

Good luck!

PS If you find a nice new (flat) inspection hatch at a scrappy I'll race you!

I got the inspection pannel off using a small gemmi bar as I had found out that they were only held in by plastic and they all popped out no trouble then i unscrewed them from the plastic with a pair of pliers, just need some new screws now (also need to weld a patch near the osf wheel arch that I discovered when pulling back the carpet grrrr).

I Put a multimeter to the 4 pins in the fuel pump and got it to beep at me (continuity?) when I touched the 2 on the off side (black and purple/white) so decided these would be the 2 to try to get power to so I got my jumper pack and some old wires and connected the black negative to the top one which had the black one attached and the red positive to the white/purple one at the bottom and hey presto the pump ran, I then turned her over and she starts fine!

But where to go from here? I didn't get any reading/beep from the disconnected wiring but I could tell that was dead from the fact the pump ran when connected to an independant power source, I tried tracing it back but couldn't see where it went.

Ive tried having a look at some wiring diagrams but not too sure tbh, so working back where does it go next? Inertia switch, relay, underbonnet fuse, battery?

My bets with the relay but which one is it in the drivers footwell? Also then how do I test it? Put power to the right spades and listen for a click?

Pump relay is on the top row of the relay frame, it the one at the back on the end nearest the bulkhead next one in is the injection relay, both relays are the same and have an alloy case if original.

Testing a standard relay is normally powering it up and checking the continuity through the contacts via the pins.

I haven't checked my diagrams but the other pair of wires at the pump may be from fuel sender.