V8 Engine Oil andOil Filter Renew

When changing the oil and oil filter on the V8's

Do I (should I?) start the engine in between changing the oil in the sump,
and then change the oil filter or should I change the oil, wait a while for
the new oil to settle, check the levels and then change the filter without
starting?

Strikes me that I'm mixing old oil with new if I start it in-between? Will
the oil pump be ok in between the two changes?

Cheers

Tim

"Someone" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> When changing the oil and oil filter on the V8's
>
> Do I (should I?) start the engine in between changing the oil in the sump,
> and then change the oil filter or should I change the oil, wait a while
for
> the new oil to settle, check the levels and then change the filter without
> starting?
>
> Strikes me that I'm mixing old oil with new if I start it in-between? Will
> the oil pump be ok in between the two changes?
>
> Cheers
>
> Tim
>
>
> Just change the oil and filter and then start the engine. I think you are
trying to get a bit complicated ....... get the enginenice and hot then
drain the oil , unscrew the filter leave it all to drain whilst you have a
cup of tea/ coffee. bang a new filter on , new copper washer on the plug, do
it up and then refill. Check the oil after running as the level will drop
slightly.
steve the grease

Manual says dont change oil and filter at the same time as the oil pump is
up/down wind of the filter and its a no no. Changing both at the same time
drains the pump of oil.

Alot of people have mentioned this and the Land Rover offical manuals also
detail it. I dont want to feck it up!

Tim

"R L Driver" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Someone" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > When changing the oil and oil filter on the V8's
> >
> > Do I (should I?) start the engine in between changing the oil in the
sump,
> > and then change the oil filter or should I change the oil, wait a while
> for
> > the new oil to settle, check the levels and then change the filter
without
> > starting?
> >
> > Strikes me that I'm mixing old oil with new if I start it in-between?
Will
> > the oil pump be ok in between the two changes?
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Tim
> >
> >
> > Just change the oil and filter and then start the engine. I think you
are
> trying to get a bit complicated ....... get the enginenice and hot then
> drain the oil , unscrew the filter leave it all to drain whilst you have a
> cup of tea/ coffee. bang a new filter on , new copper washer on the plug,
do
> it up and then refill. Check the oil after running as the level will drop
> slightly.
> steve the grease
>
>

"R L Driver" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Someone" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> When changing the oil and oil filter on the V8's
>>
>> Do I (should I?) start the engine in between changing the oil in the
>> sump,
>> and then change the oil filter or should I change the oil, wait a while
> for
>> the new oil to settle, check the levels and then change the filter
>> without
>> starting?
>>
>> Strikes me that I'm mixing old oil with new if I start it in-between?
>> Will
>> the oil pump be ok in between the two changes?
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>> Just change the oil and filter and then start the engine. I think you are
> trying to get a bit complicated ....... get the enginenice and hot then
> drain the oil , unscrew the filter leave it all to drain whilst you have a
> cup of tea/ coffee. bang a new filter on , new copper washer on the plug,
> do
> it up and then refill. Check the oil after running as the level will drop
> slightly.
> steve the grease
>
>
If it's a post-serpentine then ok, but if it's a pre-serpentine (3.5 or 3.9,
with the exception of the disco 3.9 serp. with dizzy) then............... NO
NO NO!
If you do that you will wait for oil pressure to build, while the bearings
destroy themselves as you restart!!!
DO NOT drain the oil and remove the filter at the same time on a
pre-serpentine V8, the pump is not self-priming!!!
Yes, I know a lot of people have done it this way and been ok, BUT is it
really worth the risk? None of my own V8's have ever self primed and I've
owned a few, trust me!
Correct method for pre-serpentine V8:-
1. get it hot.
2. drain the oil.
3. refill sump, check level.
4. start, as soon as light goes out, switch off.
5. fill new filter to 3/4 full (to allow for angle as you fit it).
6. unscrew and remove old filter, immediately fit new one.
7. start, check light goes out, let idle for a minute or two, switch off,
check levels.
8. go have tea/coffee/stella/vodka, safe in the knowledge that you haven't
knackered your bearing shells!

Don't worry about mixing a very small ammount of old with new, there's about
a pint trapped in all the gallerys etc that mixes every time anyway. Another
good reason for regular changes, in my book.
Remember also that the pre-serpentine v8 is designed to pump a heavy oil in
volume and even though pressure will be maintained with a thinner oil the
flow to the rear crank and cam bearings will be reduced. The engine is
designed to be lubricated with a 20W50 multigrade oil, not a modern thin
oil.

Badger
B.H.Engineering,
Rover V8 engie specialists.
www.bhengineering.co.uk
www.roverv8engines.com

On or around Sat, 22 Jan 2005 19:17:49 GMT, "Someone"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Manual says dont change oil and filter at the same time as the oil pump is
>up/down wind of the filter and its a no no. Changing both at the same time
>drains the pump of oil.
>
>Alot of people have mentioned this and the Land Rover offical manuals also
>detail it. I dont want to feck it up!

what I do is this:

warm up engine.

undo sump plug, drain oil, anneal washer (or replace it, if you do that)
while it drains, replace sump plug, refill oil to about half-way between low
and high on the dipstick.

Fill new filter with new oil about 10 times (it gradually soaks through, and
thus the first time you fill it to the top it's only about 1/3 full), ending
up with it as full as reasonably possible, bearing in mind that it goes on
at an angle, so too fill will spill oil on you. This will generally get
some oil onto the rubber seal, but if by some miracle it hasn't put some
there.

place new filter to hand. Unscrew and remove old filter, grab new one,
screw on and tighten (about 3/4 turn from when the seal contacts the face).

start engine, verify that oil light goes out/you have pressure on the dial.

stop engine again, wait a few minutes, check level and add oil 'til it's at
the high mark on the stick.

I've not had one go wrong using that sequence. The main risk of problems is
by removing the filter, draining the sump and leaving it all open, AIUI. By
doing it a stage at a time, you avoid that.


If it *does* go wrong, it's a pain. you need a 12-point 8mm ring spanner
and a good deal of swearing, an oil pump gasket, and a tub of vaseline.
remove pump cover, squidge vaseline in around the pump gears, filling as
much space as possible (clean the mating surface of old gasket if it's stuck
to it first) and refit pump cover. I guess if you want to cover all bets,
you get the new pump gasket in stock first...


--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
Confidence: Before important work meetings, boost your confidence by
reading a few pages from "The Tibetan Book of the Dead"
from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton.

Thanks for the confirmation Badger. Printed and saved.

Would 6x be a reasonable alternative during step 8 or should I be looking
for something alittle thinner???? Maybe an IPA??? Or a Best????

Also on the suggestion on the 20w50. I believe I have got a fully pathetic
in there at the moment and I was toying with mobile 1 as a replacement.
Obviously not worth it (read shouldnt do it)

Cheers (and thanks again)

Tim


"Badger" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

> If it's a post-serpentine then ok, but if it's a pre-serpentine (3.5 or
3.9,
> with the exception of the disco 3.9 serp. with dizzy) then...............
NO
> NO NO!
> If you do that you will wait for oil pressure to build, while the bearings
> destroy themselves as you restart!!!
> DO NOT drain the oil and remove the filter at the same time on a
> pre-serpentine V8, the pump is not self-priming!!!
> Yes, I know a lot of people have done it this way and been ok, BUT is it
> really worth the risk? None of my own V8's have ever self primed and I've
> owned a few, trust me!
> Correct method for pre-serpentine V8:-
> 1. get it hot.
> 2. drain the oil.
> 3. refill sump, check level.
> 4. start, as soon as light goes out, switch off.
> 5. fill new filter to 3/4 full (to allow for angle as you fit it).
> 6. unscrew and remove old filter, immediately fit new one.
> 7. start, check light goes out, let idle for a minute or two, switch off,
> check levels.
> 8. go have tea/coffee/stella/vodka, safe in the knowledge that you haven't
> knackered your bearing shells!
>
> Don't worry about mixing a very small ammount of old with new, there's
about
> a pint trapped in all the gallerys etc that mixes every time anyway.
Another
> good reason for regular changes, in my book.
> Remember also that the pre-serpentine v8 is designed to pump a heavy oil
in
> volume and even though pressure will be maintained with a thinner oil the
> flow to the rear crank and cam bearings will be reduced. The engine is
> designed to be lubricated with a 20W50 multigrade oil, not a modern thin
> oil.

"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On or around Sat, 22 Jan 2005 19:17:49 GMT, "Someone"
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
> >Manual says dont change oil and filter at the same time as the oil pump
is
> >up/down wind of the filter and its a no no. Changing both at the same
time
> >drains the pump of oil.
> >
> >Alot of people have mentioned this and the Land Rover offical manuals
also
> >detail it. I dont want to feck it up!
>
> what I do is this:
>
> warm up engine.
>
< Snip>

Again thats for the confirmation Austin.

Hopefully sort it this next weekend.

Thanks!

Tim

On or around Sat, 22 Jan 2005 20:35:26 GMT, "Tim Guy" <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

>Also on the suggestion on the 20w50. I believe I have got a fully pathetic
>in there at the moment and I was toying with mobile 1 as a replacement.
>Obviously not worth it (read shouldnt do it)

well, I reckon yer wasting yer money. The critical bit really is the "50"
part, which is the hot viscosity - modern oil such as 10W40 is thinner when
hot. Some fully synth is very wide range, such as 0W60, but that's silly
money and well over-spec.

good 20W50 is not that common now, mind. I've been using castrol GTX "for
high mileage engines" in the disco V8, here, seems OK at the normal 6K mile
intervals, but it does run almost all the time on LPG, which seems to result
in cleaner oil.

Just changed the oil in the TDi, 6k miles and black as yer hat.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"The breezy call of incense-breathing Morn, The swallow twittering
from the strawbuilt shed, The cock's shrill clarion, or the echoing
horn, No more shall rouse them from their lowly bed."
Thomas Gray, Elegy Written in a Country Churchyard.