v8 conversion

hiya lads im half way thru this and had some battles ,the latest being the clutch

rrc v8 onto 1967 2a non syncro series box

the rr flywheel has been drilled for 9"[i keep reading should be 9.5"]
this is the only 9" cover i can find [the existing] even then il have to enlarge all 6 holes to get last 2 bolts in

so does anyone have anything to say about using this cover? ,cheers boys ,steve

Apart from the obvious stuff like will it fit inside your bellhousing, and does the existing fork and clutch bearing work with it, I'd be a bit concerned that you've enlarged the holes because I don't know how far off centre the plate can be before vibration starts to become a problem. Covers are often located by dowel pins to keep them absolutely central.

Any chance of getting the flywheel drilled again for a bigger one - again assuming that it'll fit the bellhousing?

If not, maybe get the flywheel balanced with the cover on and marked so that it's always in that position?

I haven't done the swap that you are, but my flywheel is away being machined (made thinner and drilled for the clutch) and then it's off for balancing. I've really no idea how critical it is, but every flywheel that I can remember has had balancing drillings in them.

cheers mate , its looks like my only option is get drilled for 9.5

why are you making your flywheel thinner? RRC fw is right thickness, SD1 is thinner and needs clutch cover like this one with extra bush in centre to reach release bearing,this ones going back for refund
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361748670186?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I'm using a 9.5" clutch on a flywheel from a 300tdi in an R380/300 bellhousing on a TD5 R380 (so that I could shorten the overlong input shaft to fit), but on a Jaguar engine. Jag flywheels are like rocking horse poo, so I'm using a Jag auto flexplate with the ring gear onto the Jag crankshaft with the 300tdi flywheel bolted on afterwards. It being a sporty petrol engine I wanted to have a matching throttle response, so I've filled all the original crank holes with weld and now it's being thinned down to 20mm and new holes made for the Jag crank (ten unequally spaced and sized). It's too big for the lathe and milling machine I've got access to, so I'm having to pay someone else to do it.

The milling is going to remove a lot of the balancing drillings, which is another reason that it needs to be balanced again.

That's quite a lot of explaining for something that I thought was quite simple. I wonder if that's why the whole project is taking so long - perhaps it is quite complicated really.