200tdi conversion - pics of some fiddly bits

Thanks David. The clocked turbo means that the vacuum connections are very close to the back of the alternator. I may change the turbo boost output connector to a right angle to give a bit more space. Pictures of clocking the turbo coming up soon.

OK, here we go a-clocking. Not difficult, but you will need a large pair of interior circlip pliers - able to cope with a 40mm gap. I didn't have a pair, but was able to adapt another pair to suit.
With the turbo on the bench, first give it a good cleanup around the join between the hot (exhaust) and cold (boost) parts.

Here you can see my bodged circlip tool in action. Bit fiddly, but once the circlip was compressed, I was able to use my third and fourth hands to lever it out with a small screwdriver.

You end up with this - a casing. Clean it up - I removed a large moth that was partially blocking the output.

Now you're ready to modify where the waste gate actuator bolts on. Two 6mm threads to be created. I drilled at 4 then 5mm, and tapped at 6.

Use the first hole to guide you where to drill for the second.

Now remove the actuator and give it a good clean - I used a hose to wash all the swarf off. Bolt the actuator back on, bolt the hot side of the turbo to the manifold and offer up the cold side. Rotate it to match up the actuating rod to the wastegate lever as best as possible, them mark both parts of the turbo with a marker.

Now take the turbo back to the bench and with the marks aligned, replace the circlip
.
Job done! You can now bolt the turbo back to the manifold. Note that the pipe from the cold side of the turbo is no longer long enough to reach the actuator, you'll need a short length of 6mm ID hose to sort it.

You made that look well easy!!!

Thanks flat, it wasn't too bad to be honest. However, if you don't have a suitable pair of circlip pliers (or a suitable bodge) it would be almost impossible.
Once it's back together, it's still possible to rotate the boost (alloy) part a bit to line up the wastegate actuator. I learnt a lot about how the turbo works - boost control etc. It also looks pretty easy to change the turbo core cartridge if the bearings go - £170 instead of £600 for a new turbo.

I wonder if you should write up the turbo clocking as a sticky on its own?

Happy to if the moderators desire it, I take that as a compliment

Very clear, nice pictures!

Here we are again. The engine is now in the vehicle, so it's time to start connecting things. One of my first issues was the oil cooler hoses - something that seems to have caused confusion and anguish for many people. These hoses differ depending on the age of the engine. The earlier engines (1990-1992) use BSP connections at the oil filter end, and the pipes you need to buy are ESR280/281. If you have a later engine (1992-1994) you will need the later hoses ESR1912 and 1913. Unfortunately I have an early engine, but had to buy a new radiator - which has the later fittings. There are a few ways around this, including a chap on $bay who sells you an adapter for the adapters supplied with the radiator for a silly price. The easiest is to go to Pirtek (or any local hydraulic specialist) and buy a pair of BSP to BSPT (taper) adapters, which screw straight into the new rad (taper end) in place of the supplied adapters. They cost less than a fiver each. The nice man also extended my Disco power steering pipe for less than a tenner - bargain!
A few shots to help: here's the rad fitting as supplied.

If you have the later engine, these are fine, but not for me. My hose ends are BSP, which look like this
So I need this type of BSP to BSPT adapter
Hope this helps someone. Looking forward to getting lots of bits bolted back on in the next week!

Thanks for this. All my pipework/filters/clearance at the moment is a bit pants and this is on the to do list. Very grateful for the pics.

Cheers, Hard-drive
TBH, I was as baffled as anyone else when I started into it. It has taken a lot of searching, and a set of the wrong pipes before the mists cleared and I understood what to do. Why Land Rover changed their pipe fittings in the middle of a 4 year engine production run is anyone's guess. It also explains why if you have a TD with TD rad, you can use your old pipes - as long as the 200 you get is also early!

TBH I've not had a really good "planning & measuring" look at my pipes...obviously my 200 was already fitted when I got my truck...my issue at the moment is that my air cleaner arrangement is not good, and it's horribly close to the alternator pulley. There's some rather nasty welded pipe doing air ducting which isn't pretty...although obviously the fluid pipework is all fine.

I have a Disco 200 air filter unit ready to fit as per the Glencoyne method, so if I need to clock the turbo to make room I will do it I guess. Ultimately, I want to fit a Southdown snorkel to the air cleaner too.

One question, what silicone hose kit do I need for a Disco 200tdi in a Defender...is there such a thing?

Steve Parker does a complete kit for the intercooler, although I don't think it's designed for clocked turbos. I'm going to have a go using what bits and pieces I already have - which includes a full 2.5 NA exhaust system (same bore as the intercooler pipes) as per the Glencoyne site.

Intercooler pipework is where I'm at presently. It's a bit of a challenge to get everything sitting nicely and as 'factory' as possible. After comparing both the 200 and 300Tdi intercoolers, I think I'll use the 300 one as the lower outlet sits in a better position.

A few snaps of the progress - with the new engine in, time to sort out the brake/clutch pipes and fit heat shields to protect them. The heat shield is just alloy sheet from B&Q, easy to work.

Time to connect the alternator up, the old plug was cut off and new connectors crimped and soldered to the battery (B+) and warning light (D+)

Then it was time to connect up the fuel system. I used 8mm I/D steel covered hose, with good quality hose clips. I had enough to completely replace the tank to lift pump and the filter to injection pump. I re-used the existing lift pump to filter line (it may not have been original) and joined to the existing return line. Easy enough. If you're using this type of hose, it's best to wrap insulating tape on the section to be cut before using the hacksaw.

Time to connect up the steering pipes. I re-used the existing return pipe, the discovery pipe I had extended was a perfect fit too Here's a picky of it before fitting, you can see the length of the longer flex bit

Finally time to get the rad together - I used a YRM frame, with a new rad and second hand intercooler. A bit of caustic soda in a bucket was great for cleaning all the old crud off it. I used sleeping mat in between the two rads.

And finally for today, new galvanised rad to slam panel brackets from YRM. The near side already had one hole - from the horn, the other three were drilled and fixed with stainless 6mm hex machine screws. The washer used in this photo was too small.

I don't like the look of the exposed B+ terminal at the top of the alternator, looks like I'll have to remake the alternator heat shield.

OK, almost the last post on this thread, the finished intercooler pipes. As per the Glencoyne web page, 2.5 N/A exhaust pipes are the right diameter for this. I found the rear section, which bends up over the rear axle was just about perfect. After cutting, I cleaned them out with oven cleaner (don't tell the Mrs), and painted one with spray hammerite. Easy peasy. Fired up for the first time in months last night, impressed with how little cranking it took, considering the fuel pipework was mostly new. Just the exhaust to sort now, I have bought a 2.5 turbo system, which, ahem "should" fit. The middle bracket will have to be manufactured I think.

That's looking great, nice work. You're putting me to shame, I still haven't sorted out the intercooler pipes..
I have got the rad in now though. I'm using a Defender 300 frame and modified the original 110 brackets-





The driver's side one just needed a little heat & bend to clear the bolt on the frame but the passenger (nearside) one needed completely remaking. I chopped it in two, re-welded it and added a strengthening piece. It's ok but now I've seen your YRM brackets, I wish I'd just bought those!

It's a tight fit in there. I had to shave down the two rubber pads that sit between the chassis brackets and lower rad frame pins

Thanks David. It's worth buying N/A exhaust sections for the intercooler pipework - it's easy to work with and really cheap! I couldn't believe the price some places wanted for what is basically the same thing. As I didn't have a rad frame (no donor vehicle) YRM were a good option for the frame, then I saw some more shiny bits on their website and couldn't resist. It all went together very easily, no cutting or welding required.

Final picture - I said it would be finished for Christmas - just made it. As expected the exhaust was a bit of a pain - the conversion downpipe was fine, and the TD system was exactly the right size to just fit inside it, but it took lot of fiddling before I was anywhere near happy, and it hasn't been great weather for lying on your back on a cold patio. The air cleaner was installed almost exactly as per the Glencoyne "how to" with the exception that I bolted the cleaner to the altered NA bracket, which makes it easier to pop it in with the wing already on. Looking forward to a drive on Boxing Day!

That exhaust to intercooler pipes is a bloody good idea, top job chap