Freelander 1 v6 starter motor

I have an ocasional non starting problem. Turn the key and the dash lights come on and the fool pump runs then stops. Then I turn the key and it dun't start. It dun't turn over (v6 engine) and I haven't listerned out to hear the starter motor click yet as it's only just started doing it. If I turn the key again it will start. Or if I just keep the key turned on the first try after say 2 seconds it then starts to turn over and starts.

Me hawkeye says the imobiliser of deactivated and the flywheel is adapted etc and can't see anything that junps out and ses "ere's the fault".

I'm guessing it could be the starter motor solinoid but I haven't had a propper look at it yet. If it is, is there a repair kit for the starter motor on the v6 (rover kv6) or would I have to get a replacement statrer motor?

Just on about the crappy starter motor connector in this thread not long ago -
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/bus-wont-start-216371.html

^ 1.8 ....Dont know if the V6 connector is just as crappy

Check the spade connector on the starter. Thay are known to corrode on anything Rover.

Thanks. Struggled a bit this morning to start so I had a quick look. Saw the spade connector and thought it looked crap. Took a propper look this evening and the spade seemed loose. It doesn't feel tight like a crimp should. Also the main positive feed seems a bit loose too. Seems to turn slightly with the nut on top so I had a play to try to secure it betterer.

I found a supplier online who supplies a repair kit for my v6 starter. Then I found this fred and spacemonkey has used the same supplier: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/d...-l-series-freelander-td4-td5-k-v6-138397.html so I plan to do the same repair on mine.

I know this might sound silly ,but double check your battery is good before decapitating starter motor, had it on mine and was convinced it was the solenoid . . . . .but after eliminating that favorite is the brass internals of solenoid arced up , easy job I'm told

ming said:

I know this might sound silly ,but double check your battery is good before decapitating starter motor, had it on mine and was convinced it was the solenoid . . . . .but after eliminating that favorite is the brass internals of solenoid arced up , easy job I'm told

Click to expand...

Thanks. Yes thats something I was meaning to check today but forgot until it started. Seems to start ok after it's warmed up but the battery will be a higher voltage at that point. Already got me multimeter out to remind me to measure the fag lighter socket before and during starting tomorrow morning. I was thinking the same thing as you. Could be the battery slowly failing and not being able to give it a good start or the signal via the ignition (or switch on the rear or what ever else) not telling the "process" to start as the switch contact is starting to fail. Will report back with results.

Battery volts are ok but loosing power to the fag socket when starting. Had this happen before and it was the switch on the rear of the ignition. Going to have another look tonight. Before reverse lights wouldn't work when the engiine was running but would work if the engine was off with only electrics on. this time it's the starter side of the same switch which I think is causing the problem.

Taken the switch off the rear of the ignition this evening and rubbed the contacts with sand paper gently and put it back. Started 3 times in a row with no delay. Looks like this has solved the prolem. Will get a new switch to fit and will also fit the repair kit to the starter motor as I've already bought it now and it's never been done before.

After standing for 4 hours the battery measured 12.71v with the ignition off.
With the ignition at position 2 before starting (engine off) the fag socket dropped to 12.25v.
With the engine running the battery was 14.23v

Thanks

What I did to fix the above:

Disconnect battery
remove plastic cover around steering column - 2 screws underneath
take plastic cover oft - splits in 2 parts - remove rubber ring round ignition key hole first
remove switch on the rhs - 2 screws
...make sure you don't let the silly white plastic thing jump out
...it's the auto gearbox position pin thing which only allows you to start it in P or N
...don't move the gear lever at this point or the plastic thing will fly oft
...that pin is spring loaded towards the clip - it's a sod to put the plastic think back if it fly's oft

take plastic cover off rear of switch - push clip things
clean contacts - may need to turn switch with a screwdriver to access some pins
...pins are the circular pattern at the top of the switch
put back together in reverse order


DSCN2854 FlFu40w


DSCN2855 O5aDmPu


DSCN2856 lCeWZvu


DSCN2856a KasBxsb


DSCN2858 JS05Lag


DSCN2866 fHizVew

Update.

After cleaning the switch contacts 11 months ago the switch started to become intermittent earlier this year so I replaced it with a new one. So contact cleaning is only really a temporary fix. Best solution is a new switch.