Us vs The Rust

Well just spent my evening sanding/rust cure/primering my better rear arch out of the both, fighting the rust! My other rear arch needs welding, this one I thought was okay til it decidid to disintigrate on me

Found that annoying. And made me briefly think about the other arch, bubbles all round & the ones buy the skylights being the worst til I gave myself a slap in the face. Telling myself 'I will win, I wont give up I will destroy this swine by the name of f*cking rust'

Got back in to have my girlfriend telling me I have been neclating her over the disco. I had to explain 'Most cars secondhand need bits doing to it.' She was like 'well its a rust bucket.' I found myself sticking up for the disco and said 'no It will be great ive made a good choice here princess' (she likes that). Just to let you guy's know Marie believes if a car has a bit of rust - it is rust bucket, less than 1500 quid its a banger! & so on

So need some inspiration some evidence im not alone hear, maybe some pics of your current rust or before and after repair work.

I WILL NOT GIVE UP!

Rant over!

J

Rust is part of the disco's design. Its integral to the character of the vehicle. You will get rid of it only for it to appear somewhere else. Thats why I got a freelander.

have yu looked underneath an early Hippoo?

subframes corrode like buggery.

I don't under stand why they did not make it out of glavanised steel (excuse my spelling)

coz why would they want it to last? they want you to buy a noo one. :doh:

aint freelanders women cars? :behindsofa:

The Mad Hat Man said:

have yu looked underneath an early Hippoo?

subframes corrode like buggery.

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I've got one, its sound as a pound, rust-wise.

nathan5346 said:

aint freelanders women cars? :behindsofa:

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No you can get male hairdressers aswell

Women like freelanders because they are smaller and very easy to drive.

so's a lada 4x4

Rust. it's a ****er aint it.

Dont give up though. I know it's hard, I know it's soul destroying, but don't give up. Even if you buy another Disco, chances are that it will be just as bad, so you might as well concentrate on making your decent.

Anyway, as requested, pictures.....

Boot floor before;


Boot floor cut out;


O/S inner front wing;


O/S/R sill;


N/S/F sill;


Sills and 'B' pillars done, pre paint;





Fitted a snorkel at the weekend and have now found more rust between my front arches and the inner wings. Bastard!

the rear wheel arch that rots to death on discos can be replaced veary easily. ive just bought one for a discovery im renovating, £30 from paddocks or 35 from a few other places like ebay and DLS

Feeling smug now, I did most of the rusty bits last summer - cut them out and weld new metal in then huge and i mean HUGE amounts of waxoyl.
I've just spent the day doing a pre mot on the old girl and I've only found one small bit on the chasis - cleaned and treated.

saying that no doubt the mot tester will find some - or it'll just appear out of nowhere a sometime very soon

DISCO MONEYPIT- i feel your pain, but you have given me the boost I needed re the fixed up parts to move on from this little rut. Cheers!

Think I might go for 2 new rear arches
think the floor is not to bad!
Few bubbles all over worst in my eyes being the ones next to the skylights.... Going to take these out 1 by 1. he he...

James_300tdi said:

DISCO MONEYPIT- i feel your pain, but you have given me the boost I needed re the fixed up parts to move on from this little rut. Cheers!

Think I might go for 2 new rear arches
think the floor is not to bad!
Few bubbles all over worst in my eyes being the ones next to the skylights.... Going to take these out 1 by 1. he he...

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The nearside skylight on mine is starting to show signs of bibbling as well. All the window rubbers are pretty perished, so I might as well replace the lot.

One tip I would give you, or anyone else for that matter is this; You have no idea what sort of state you floorpan is in untill you remove the carpets and the underlay. If your carpets ever get wet then the thick underlay just acts as a great big sponge, retaining all the moisture. Not good.

My advice would be to remove all the carpet and underlay so you have a blank canvass to work from. then you can get what will proberly be a rotton floorpan sorted once and for all.

With all the carpets and underlay binned, I painted my floorpan with three coats of a rubberised paint available form Stokes Paints. This cost around £12 a 2.5 litre tin and I used just under two tins. Prior to this I gave it a coat of Karust, flattened that down, then a coat of zinc rich primer, then the rubberised paint.

This rubberised paint has lots of little grit fillings in it. You can buy seperate additional bags of these fillings for a couple of quid. With the first tin I covered all the floorpan with ease, leaving around 1/3rd of a tin left over. With the remains of this tin I added it to the second, then added an extra pouch of the grit for the top coat.

To replace the carpets I found a firm on ebay who were based in Bradford. They sell decent quality rubber mat sets for £60 delivered. These include tailered front mats, tailered rear mats and a load bay liner, all for £60. Quite a bargin I thought.

Noise wise, even on the motorway, (were mine spends most of it's time) the noise is only a little bit more, but certainly not very intrusive, even on 400 mile + journeys.

why are you bothering to patch the sill up ? just buy a new sill, there easy to fit and i would say by the time youve messed about patching up you could have replaced the whole sill in just as much time. it looks better and lasts longer anorl !

heres one im doing at the moment.

just buy 2 repair sections around 60.00 ish for both
sharpen a wood chisle, and chop out the old rusty arches down the weld lip (outer to inner arch step) and at the bottom sill,the upper section at the top of the arch should fall off ,as heres where the rust is worse,as this is caused by the roof drainage hole,
Rust in the boot is useually caused by alpine or side window seals split or warping, new seals about 45.00 a pair
Though sunroof models have more rust problems with split or blocked drainage pipes ,
but do remember that Disco1 prices are quite cheap compared to D2 because of the rust problem, D2`s have far less boot floor probs because the side windows are bonded.

Burnt Chips said:

just buy 2 repair sections around 60.00 ish for both
sharpen a wood chisle, and chop out the old rusty arches down the weld lip (outer to inner arch step) and at the bottom sill,the upper section at the top of the arch should fall off ,as heres where the rust is worse,as this is caused by the roof drainage hole,
Rust in the boot is useually caused by alpine or side window seals split or warping, new seals about 45.00 a pair
Though sunroof models have more rust problems with split or blocked drainage pipes ,
but do remember that Disco1 prices are quite cheap compared to D2 because of the rust problem, D2`s have far less boot floor probs because the side windows are bonded.

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your better off buying a spot weld drill bit and drilling the spot welds out the arch will fall off. also the boot floor rots from the outside in due to the cross bearers holding all the silt and crap, once the boot floor is holed the water gets in a rots it faster.

also the boot floor rots from the outside in due to the cross bearers holding all the silt and crap, once the boot floor is holed the water gets in a rots it faster

and the reason the floor does`nt rot on the D2 is why ?? after all its the same chassis ?

Ive actually seen 2 D1`s with the inner load space sides fully plated up to near roof,and then plated accross the floor, this caused by water travelling up from outside underfloor ? NOT
Ive traced all water ingress on mine to the loadspace windows seals and tailgate window seal, all leaking onto THAT soundproofing matting.
(A SPONGE REALLY) ,which then keeps the metal constantly supplied with H2O ,and the O being the culprit.

Burnt Chips said:

also the boot floor rots from the outside in due to the cross bearers holding all the silt and crap, once the boot floor is holed the water gets in a rots it faster

and the reason the floor does`nt rot on the D2 is why ?? after all its the same chassis ?

Ive actually seen 2 D1`s with the inner load space sides fully plated up to near roof,and then plated accross the floor, this caused by water travelling up from outside underfloor ? NOT
Ive traced all water ingress on mine to the loadspace windows seals and tailgate window seal, all leaking onto THAT soundproofing matting.
(A SPONGE REALLY) ,which then keeps the metal constantly supplied with H2O ,and the O being the culprit.

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that might apply to some discos but the majority rot from the out side in. sorry if you disagree take a look at every pic on here of floor replacments and you will see what im saying is right. it is the underfloor cross bearers that do the majority of boot floor rotting. the disco 2 might start having the same probs after 12 years.
you cant clean the **** from under the cos the fuel tank is the way and there starts ya problem

vivnap said:

why are you bothering to patch the sill up ? just buy a new sill, there easy to fit and i would say by the time youve messed about patching up you could have replaced the whole sill in just as much time. it looks better and lasts longer anorl !

heres one im doing at the moment.

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Where did you get the panels from?

Cheers