Urgent help needed

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If I understand (doubtful) there's very little that can be done without diagnostics first. Is that right?

If we can't get diagnostics to the vehicle are we asking for help to get the vehicle to somewhere with diagnostics?

I'm just trying to work out how we can help
 
blue beasty said:
If I understand (doubtful) there's very little that can be done without diagnostics first. Is that right?

If we can't get diagnostics to the vehicle are we asking for help to get the vehicle to somewhere with diagnostics?

I'm just trying to work out how we can help
Click to expand...

Yep i think diagnostics would be best bet...its not moving far as u can see if u look at pics
 
rasheed said:
That's not supposed to happen with 18"s. Probably are missing the bump-stops. You've really only two options, lift it onto blocks as people have suggested or now that its at your relative's house if it can stay there, start to work on the whole thing. Lots of threads in here, many excellent ones by Wammers. Trick is to be as focussed and thorough as you can. Pneumatic circuit and electrical circuit, two things going on here and you need to run through them point by point. You will need to reset the faults first though.

Don't lose hope. EAS is fiddly but its not hard. And it rides a lot nicer than springs. :)
Click to expand...

Yup agree.... i dont want to convert it to springs if push came to inflation (shove) i'd rather buy the 6mm inflation valves & do it manually by tyre compressor....
I have found this today?..... what you guys think??

http://www.nigelhewi...eas/pinout.html

use a spider wire linkage to connect pin 1 +12v timed to pin 26 inlet (inflate) solenoid and select a corner eg pin 10 front left or 11 rear left, 27 front right or 28 rear right swap pin 9 for pin 26 to deflate instead of inflate, i.e join 1 to 10,11,27 and 28 to open all corners then pin 26 to inflate. to deflate all, connect pin 1 to 10,11,27 and 28 and 26

pin 13 is pressure switch voltage.

to check compressor will run connect pin 1 to pin 8 (bypasses pressure switch caution)

connect pin 8 to pin 1 to run compressor, 2 mins power at pin 1 once becm is awake, re awaken by open/close door.

all done with ecu harness connector disconnected under passenger seat.
 
You may not know if you have a leak or a broken thing until you can get some height on it and get some room to see what you're looking at ... :D

Put some blocks on the bump stops, then re check it ...
 
blue beasty said:
If I understand (doubtful) there's very little that can be done without diagnostics first. Is that right?

If we can't get diagnostics to the vehicle are we asking for help to get the vehicle to somewhere with diagnostics?

I'm just trying to work out how we can help
Click to expand...

Correct, if it has gone to hard fault, all lamps lit and 35 MPH message on dash nothing will happen, even if the compressor is jumped and making good air or even if the tank is full, until the fault can be removed with diag. Then it is a matter of finding what caused it.
 
freelandermad said:
Yup agree.... i dont want to convert it to springs if push came to inflation (shove) i'd rather buy the 6mm inflation valves & do it manually by tyre compressor....
I have found this today?..... what you guys think??

http://www.nigelhewi...eas/pinout.html

use a spider wire linkage to connect pin 1 +12v timed to pin 26 inlet (inflate) solenoid and select a corner eg pin 10 front left or 11 rear left, 27 front right or 28 rear right swap pin 9 for pin 26 to deflate instead of inflate, i.e join 1 to 10,11,27 and 28 to open all corners then pin 26 to inflate. to deflate all, connect pin 1 to 10,11,27 and 28 and 26

pin 13 is pressure switch voltage.

to check compressor will run connect pin 1 to pin 8 (bypasses pressure switch caution)

connect pin 8 to pin 1 to run compressor, 2 mins power at pin 1 once becm is awake, re awaken by open/close door.

all done with ecu harness connector disconnected under passenger seat.
Click to expand...

Just get someone with diag on it rather than buggering about and risking shorting things out which could knacker everything up.
 
wammers said:
Just get someone with diag on it rather than buggering about and risking shorting things out which could knacker everything up.
Click to expand...

That is my next concern... shorting something!

Wammers... is there a manual way to inflate the actual tank/bags with compressor?
this saves me fekn about with anymore electrics until i can get the hoor diagnosed
 
freelandermad said:
That is my next concern... shorting something!

Wammers... is there a manual way to inflate the actual tank/bags with compressor?
this saves me fekn about with anymore electrics until i can get the hoor diagnosed
Click to expand...

If the bags have no leaks you can fit manual inflation valves to the four corner feed pipes. Like these. RANGEROVER P38 AIR SUSPENSION PUMP MANUAL INFLATION VALVES-A MUST HAVE SCHRADER | eBay But you are better getting it recovered and putting diag on it. If a bag has gone they would be useless.
 
wammers said:
If the bags have no leaks you can fit manual inflation valves to the four corner feed pipes. Like these. RANGEROVER P38 AIR SUSPENSION PUMP MANUAL INFLATION VALVES-A MUST HAVE SCHRADER | eBay But you are better getting it recovered and putting diag on it. If a bag has gone they would be useless.
Click to expand...

Yeah ive seen the schrader 6mm valves for sale already... but surely the system must have a no return valve to stop them deflating once aired up... so would putting air into the 4 hoses seperately not inflate them??... that way i get it up & looked under properly
idea being to inflate the bags... which the compressor does anyways
 
freelandermad said:
Yeah ive seen the schrader 6mm valves for sale already... but surely the system must have a no return valve to stop them deflating once aired up... so would putting air into the 4 hoses seperately not inflate them??... that way i get it up & looked under properly
idea being to inflate the bags... which the compressor does anyways
Click to expand...

If there is an hard fault it does not matter how much air you have in the tank, the ECU will not activate the valve block to fill the bags nor will it run the compressor. Only thing you can do other than clearing the fault and getting whatever is wrong fixed, is disconnect the four corner feed pipes from the valve block and inflate the corners individually. If you have four sound bags you should be able to get it home. If you have a leaking bag you may have to stop ever so often to top it up. When you get it home find out what the problem is and fix it. Nothing wrong with your wheels and tyres by the way, bump stops are either knackered or missing. Or arch liners are incorrectly fitted.
 
freelandermad said:
Yeah ive seen the schrader 6mm valves for sale already... but surely the system must have a no return valve to stop them deflating once aired up... so would putting air into the 4 hoses seperately not inflate them??... that way i get it up & looked under properly
idea being to inflate the bags... which the compressor does anyways
Click to expand...


i thought it wasnt = yu tried and nothing happened?

Wammers explained - ecu will not trigger block if faults are present
 
Last edited:
The Mad Hat Man said:
i thought it wasnt = yu tried and nothing happened?

Wammers explained - ecu will not trigger block if faults are present
Click to expand...
Think he wants to pull the pipes off the bag side of the valve block and inflate manually (with air compressor etc) then seal it off to the bags are inflated off the stops and can be driven (all be it carefully) home or to a garage. Sort of bypassing the ecu etc and just adding air to the bags from a different air source.
 
mattlumley said:
Think he wants to pull the pipes off the bag side of the valve block and inflate manually (with air compressor etc) then seal it off to the bags are inflated off the stops and can be driven (all be it carefully) home or to a garage. Sort of bypassing the ecu etc and just adding air to the bags from a different air source.
Click to expand...

correct.... i did manage to get one raised slightly (left front via number 3 pipe from valve block).... but other 3 either taking forever or something is blocking the air getting to them and im not wanting to keep slammin air into them... defo not leaking and air tight as already checked with water on everything
 
freelandermad said:
correct.... i did manage to get one raised slightly (left front via number 3 pipe from valve block).... but other 3 either taking forever or something is blocking the air getting to them and im not wanting to keep slammin air into them... defo not leaking and air tight as already checked with water on everything
Click to expand...

Have explained what you need to do to inflate the bags. REMOVE the four corner pipes from the valve block and fit connectors to them with a schrader valves on. Then bit by bit inflate rear corners in turn until rear is up then fronts in turn until the car is up to standard height. You will need around 60 PSI in each bag. No good trying to help if you won't listen.
 
freelandermad said:
correct.... i did manage to get one raised slightly (left front via number 3 pipe from valve block).... but other 3 either taking forever or something is blocking the air getting to them and im not wanting to keep slammin air into them... defo not leaking and air tight as already checked with water on everything
Click to expand...

They can still be leaking air out of the bags, from inside the folds, you may not find it until you have some height on it ...
 
Sorry only just seen this. I must have read the text last night when I'd had a few too many beers and just noticed it again now.
I'm next to Kirkcaldy but don't think I'd have been much help. 109 has no MOT so nothing I can tow with. Can use my mum's Jazz to move parts about etc. if needed for the future. Won't be too long before the 109 is good to go again too.
 
Night 2 in the wild. Im guessing youre not stuck with the car and have a place to stay? I may have already missed this but what caused it the loose all the air or is this just something they do. Would recovery on the back of a truck not be the best option if you or family etc have a membership?.
 
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