Understand that I am thick and at the beginning of a learning curve.

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Mackers

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Hi Y'all. Landyzone is gonna help me a lot. I'm gonna read everything :0) For now, I've bought this. The homework I've done is a) talking to the land rover garage and confirming all works, b) HPI and DVLA. When I arrive to pick it up, I couldn't even be a tyre kicker (I'd probably break my toes lol). It's just passed needing two corroded front brake pipes. The advisories are:

Front Brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened both (1.1.14 (a) (ii)) Central Exhaust mounting defective (6.1.2 (a)) Offside Rear Wheel bearing has slight play (5.1.3 (a) (i))

Are the advisories a big deal? 5K bodywork and spray job with galvanised doors except rear door, which has bubbled slightly (oxidisation). Skimmed engine and gaskets, new gearbox and fuel tanks etc. All new rubbers as others had perished. 5k on parts and 5 on chasis.
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Mackers said:
Front Brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened both (1.1.14 (a) (ii)) Central Exhaust mounting defective (6.1.2 (a)) Offside Rear Wheel bearing has slight play (5.1.3 (a) (i))

Are the advisories a big deal?

View attachment 161910
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No. The advisory on the discs may clean up with use - if not you may need some new discs (you would fit new pads too then).

The exhaust mounting may be the chassis side in which case they are between £5-22 pounds depending on what you buy - I bought a YRM centre hanger and it was £20 but it was galvanised too and I wanted it to last - Bolt off and bolt on new one. Maybe it is the rubber that has gone? Or maybe the hanger on the exhaust is rusted off and either needs a little weld or a new exhaust part which are cheap for these - get onto paddocks and price up the parts.

Offside wheel bearing - - might need tightened - it says play, not rough so might not actually be worn, even if shot a set of Timken bearings and a good seal will cost you £20.

I and many others on this forum would tackle these jobs on an easy Saturday morning but it depends on your abilities. If you had to pay a mechanic then expect to be billed for 2-3 hours.

Is it coming from a garage? If so I would be telling them at very least to sort the exhaust bracket.

However, I don't trust garages, especially one that wants to sell the vehicle and maximise profit. I would probably buy it, look at the exhaust immediately, make sure it won't fall off and is well supported and secure. Leave the discs to see if they clean up and it assuming it brakes well leave well alone. On the bearing I would jack it up and see how much play it has and feel for roughness, as said above it might only need nipping up a tiny bit unless it actually feels rough.

One more thing to do is check the MOT history, check the mileages seem correct and match the dash and also check the chassis number on the DVLA details matches what is stamped on the plate on top of the brake box (in front of drivers position at the back almost directly under the bonnet hinge is a steel plate. If there is no VIN number here or it doesn't match walk away.
 
discomania said:
No. The advisory on the discs may clean up with use - if not you may need some new discs (you would fit new pads too then).

The exhaust mounting may be the chassis side in which case they are between £5-22 pounds depending on what you buy - I bought a YRM centre hanger and it was £20 but it was galvanised too and I wanted it to last - Bolt off and bolt on new one. Maybe it is the rubber that has gone? Or maybe the hanger on the exhaust is rusted off and either needs a little weld or a new exhaust part which are cheap for these - get onto paddocks and price up the parts.

Offside wheel bearing - - might need tightened - it says play, not rough so might not actually be worn, even if shot a set of Timken bearings and a good seal will cost you £20.

I and many others on this forum would tackle these jobs on an easy Saturday morning but it depends on your abilities. If you had to pay a mechanic then expect to be billed for 2-3 hours.

Is it coming from a garage? If so I would be telling them at very least to sort the exhaust bracket.

However, I don't trust garages, especially one that wants to sell the vehicle and maximise profit. I would probably buy it, look at the exhaust immediately, make sure it won't fall off and is well supported and secure. Leave the discs to see if they clean up and it assuming it brakes well leave well alone. On the bearing I would jack it up and see how much play it has and feel for roughness, as said above it might only need nipping up a tiny bit unless it actually feels rough.
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Cheers for that :0) I'm handy with most things but it'll be a garage job as I've a lot to learn. I've just taken the pictures off in case the seller is a member (bit embarrassing if he is). No it's a private seller.
 
discomania said:
Odd now I look at the photos again as the exhaust looks brand new!
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I thought that, but then told the body and chassis were done four years ago and the rest the year after. The pictures are the originals taken at the garage immediately after the work.
 
Mackers said:
Cheers for that :0) I'm handy with most things but it'll be a garage job as I've a lot to learn. I've just taken the pictures off in case the seller is a member (bit embarrassing if he is). No it's a private seller.
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If he is a member on here then you should be in good company, I would leave them up. The seller may or may not make himself known if indeed they are here. At least you know if he shafts you he will not be welcome on here anymore.

It is a nice enough looking machine - but please if there is only 1 thing you do - check the vehicle looks like the genuine deal - does he have the part of the old chassis that has the VIN on it? Lots of people cut the front dumb iron off the old chassis and keep it as "proof" of owning the old chassis. With a new chassis (like mine) all you can really go by is the VIN number on the vehicle data plate.
 
discomania said:
If he is a member on here then you should be in good company, I would leave them up. The seller may or may not make himself known if indeed they are here. At least you know if he shafts you he will not be welcome on here anymore.

It is a nice enough looking machine - but please if there is only 1 thing you do - check the vehicle looks like the genuine deal - does he have the part of the old chassis that has the VIN on it? Lots of people cut the front dumb iron off the old chassis and keep it as "proof" of owning the old chassis. With a new chassis (like mine) all you can really go by is the VIN number on the vehicle data plate.
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Thanks very much for that. It's the kind of advice I'd never have imagined to check.
 
Mackers said:
I thought that, but then told the body and chassis were done four years ago and the rest the year after. The pictures are the originals taken at the garage immediately after the work.
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Looking at the MoT history the exhaust mount is only advisory so should be OK. I would just get under it pronto and check it.

It has done 12 miles since last years MoT so that would explain if the discs are a bit rusted up in which case they should clean up with use.
 
discomania said:
Looking at the MoT history the exhaust mount is only advisory so should be OK. I would just get under it pronto and check it.

It has done 12 miles since last years MoT so that would explain if the discs are a bit rusted up in which case they should clean up with use.
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God I am really am thick! I never noticed 12 miles between MOT's. I'll ask about that. Superstar. Very grateful.
 
Mackers said:
God I am really am thick! I never noticed 12 miles between MOT's. I'll ask about that. Superstar. Very grateful.
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Easy to miss to be honest - we get asked about these things on here a lot and it's become second nature to check all seems legit.

Anyway - welcome to the fold - I hope it makes you as happy as my Defender makes me!

Once you get it you can post some photos and get advice on how to check the advisory things.

What engine is in it by the way?
 
discomania said:
Easy to miss to be honest - we get asked about these things on here a lot and it's become second nature to check all seems legit.

Anyway - welcome to the fold - I hope it makes you as happy as my Defender makes me!

Once you get it you can post some photos and get advice on how to check the advisory things.

What engine is in it by the way?
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It's brill to find a community where everyone's so helpful. I hope I can be useful once I learn more. When I was talkign to the mechanic, he started off saying they'd sourced a a newish 300 for it, but when I corrected him with what I'd been told (2.5), he revisited his screen and read out work done. I didn't catch everything he reeled off the system, but I did catch reskimming the head, gaskets, then he continued and I didn't write it down. It's on my list to clarify.
 
That's a stunning looking vehicle, no doubt. :)

First thing to do, as already mentioned by Discomania is make absolutely sure that it is legit. No ifs buts or maybes - it must be 100% legit, or walk away. ( I am not questioning this vehicle, just pointing out that so many get stolen .....)

Second thing is to find out what has been done to the bulkhead - the second weakest point on a deafener.... If it has been galvanised, then bl@@dy brilliant - if not then have a careful look round, and try the usual corrosion areas with a magnet .... ( a search on here will tell you where these are ;) ).

If it has a 300 series engine, then this is the best non electronic diesel engine which LR have ever used... - get some piccies of the engine bay and we'll soon tell you what's in there...

You've probably bought it by now :D - so, the most important bits of all -

1) some proper security before it grows legs and the sticky fingered types have it away with your pride and joy :mad::mad::mad: -

2) get some Dinitrol / Bilt Hamber protection on that chassis to hide the galv from said sticky fingered bar stewards.

3) Enjoy it :)
 
Disco1BFG said:
That's a stunning looking vehicle, no doubt. :)

First thing to do, as already mentioned by Discomania is make absolutely sure that it is legit. No ifs buts or maybes - it must be 100% legit, or walk away. ( I am not questioning this vehicle, just pointing out that so many get stolen .....)

Second thing is to find out what has been done to the bulkhead - the second weakest point on a deafener.... If it has been galvanised, then bl@@dy brilliant - if not then have a careful look round, and try the usual corrosion areas with a magnet .... ( a search on here will tell you where these are ;) ).

If it has a 300 series engine, then this is the best non electronic diesel engine which LR have ever used... - get some piccies of the engine bay and we'll soon tell you what's in there...

You've probably bought it by now :D - so, the most important bits of all -

1) some proper security before it grows legs and the sticky fingered types have it away with your pride and joy :mad::mad::mad: -

2) get some Dinitrol / Bilt Hamber protection on that chassis to hide the galv from said sticky fingered bar stewards.

3) Enjoy it :)
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Thanks very much. I'm making notes and definitely will check what you've said. I'll have a look at corrosion areas posts now.
 
Mackers said:
Offside Rear Wheel bearing has slight play (5.1.3 (a) (i))
Click to expand...

Probably, as already said, just needs adjusting - get yourself a copy of the "RAVE" o_O - Rovers maintenance and repair manual for the range upto about 2000 - if your prospective purchase has a 300 in it, then it'll cover that too - plus all the running gear.

Adjusting the wheel bearings properly, as per RAVE is tedious - but when done properly, they tend not to give any trouble ... funny thing that :rolleyes: - also use good grease, not the cr@p even LR recommend - think Castrol Pyroplex Red or equivalent .....

(RAVE is a free down load - a search on here will find you the link - it's essentially a group of large PDF files, and as such, compatible with Windross, Crapple and Linux :) )

discomania said:
However, I don't trust garages
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Me neither :)

Had something of a row some years ago with an MOT tester about my wheel bearings - he said slight play in them ... my reaction was, "yeah, so ?" - he was Adam Ant he was advising the lot of them :rolleyes: - until I explained that they're a bleeding huge taper roller which need some play in to work properly.... another clean ticket for me then :cool:
 
Disco1BFG said:
Probably, as already said, just needs adjusting - get yourself a copy of the "RAVE" o_O - Rovers maintenance and repair manual for the range upto about 2000 - if your prospective purchase has a 300 in it, then it'll cover that too - plus all the running gear.

Adjusting the wheel bearings properly, as per RAVE is tedious - but when done properly, they tend not to give any trouble ... funny thing that :rolleyes: - also use good grease, not the cr@p even LR recommend - think Castrol Pyroplex Red or equivalent .....

(RAVE is a free down load - a search on here will find you the link - it's essentially a group of large PDF files, and as such, compatible with Windross, Crapple and Linux :) )



Me neither :)

Had something of a row some years ago with an MOT tester about my wheel bearings - he said slight play in them ... my reaction was, "yeah, so ?" - he was Adam Ant he was advising the lot of them :rolleyes: - until I explained that they're a bleeding huge taper roller which need some play in to work properly.... another clean ticket for me then :cool:
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Cheers, got the link. It's only by reading another post asking for the link that I twigged disco is discovery. I thought you two guys must be DJs or something (and I'm not joking :0)
 
Mackers said:
Cheers, got the link. It's only by reading another post asking for the link that I twigged disco is discovery. I thought you two guys must be DJs or something (and I'm not joking :0)
Click to expand...

Well, er, actually .... I spent many happy hours "helping" a girl I knew , er, "run" her Disco many years ago :D - so you might have been right :) ( Happy times ;) ).

But, you're right, Disco in this context is Discovery, specifically Disco 1 - as shown in my avatar :) My other half has one too - even the same blinking colour :eek::eek: ...

They are simple, reliable and easily maintained ..... just yesterday the clutch slave cylinder went on SWMBO's D1 .... cost all of £30 for a new genuine Lockheed, took an hour to fit, and away we go again ..... Though I am very concerned, even though it was the original, it has only lasted 22 years and 101 thousand miles :eek::confused:o_O:eek: - I think a strongly worded letter to LR is required - they really should up their game in this regard :D:D:D

If you were to buy something like the Deafener you have pictured, then, looked after it really should last for ever, literally. :)
 
mick the builder said:
Please, as said above, upgrade your security. Being new to landrover ownership, you may not realise how many get stolen and stripped or shipped . You cannot over do the amount of security fitted unfortunately.
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I'm just getting the message reading all the posts and now yours Mick. Looked at GPS tracking, toad alarms, a hidden switch immobiliser, wheel locks, clutch boxes ... even tracker warning stickers. My dog vehicle for yonks has been a battered Astra. I don't even lock the doors on it and leave the windows open all through summer cos of the odour. I often joked that any thief would pass out if they opened the door, and the interior so wrecked, it's not worth a hundred quid at the scrap yard. It's gonna be a culture shock getting used to even locking the landy, but I realise now that I'm gonna have to. I thought it'd be the same scenario (who'd nick a farm car that's s*%t up to the eyeballs, but again, I've just read that battered landys go for loads of dosh in the US.
 
Mackers said:
I thought that, but then told the body and chassis were done four years ago and the rest the year after. The pictures are the originals taken at the garage immediately after the work.
Click to expand...
From the pictures, I know that garage. So can say without a doubt any work done by them will have been correct. They are Land Rover enthusiasts themselves.
 
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