Turbo replacement with axle stands?

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F

flanagaj

Active Member
Posts
248
Location
Blandford, Dorset
Hi All,

Garage has confirmed that the turbo has gone on the TD4 and before agreeing that I am going to do it myself I just wanted to ask the following questions.


1. I have seen a refurbished TD4 turbo on ebay for £320. Is this a good price or can you get them cheaper. Not sure I want to take a gamble on one that has not beeen refurned

2. If I do replace the turb is it a simple case of fitting the new one and away you go or is there diagnostic stuff and recalibration that needs to be done. Reason I ask is that I don't have that specialist equipment.

Thanks
 
Last edited:
Its involved and fiddly, but not complicated. Its easily possible with axle stands and in fact I found that most of the work was done from above, reaching down the back of the engine. You do need access underneath though, so get it up as high as you can.
Haynes states that the IRD needs to be removed, but this is not the case.

Hardest parts I found were getting the exhaust downpipe on and off. One nut needs a socket and every extension piece you own so you can undo it from the LEFT hand wheel arch, the other just needs an open ended spanner and a LOT of patience as you wind it off a tiny fraction of a turn at a time, repositioning the spanner after each movement.

I got my recon turbo from an ebay seller caller Nerrings, based in Latvia or somewhere like that. £270

It just bolts up and away you go - no need for calibration, but let the oil warm up and circulate a while before revving it up.


http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/buying-re-con-turbo-229428.html
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/new-turbo-massive-hike-power-driveability-230009.html

On the down-side, I did have to take it off again shortly afterwards and Helicoil one of the exhaust studs, which had pulled out.....Maybe I overtightened? Maybe it was cross-threaded when refitted by the supplier, maybe the casing threads were weak anyway before it was recondioned? who knows...
 
Last edited:
dave21478 said:
Its involved and fiddly, but not complicated. Its easily possible with axle stands and in fact I found that most of the work was done from above, reaching down the back of the engine. You do need access underneath though, so get it up as high as you can.
Haynes states that the IRD needs to be removed, but this is not the case.

Hardest parts I found were getting the exhaust downpipe on and off. One nut needs a socket and every extension piece you own so you can undo it from the LEFT hand wheel arch, the other just needs an open ended spanner and a LOT of patience as you wind it off a tiny fraction of a turn at a time, repositioning the spanner after each movement.

I got my recon turbo from an ebay seller caller Nerrings, based in Latvia or somewhere like that. £270

It just bolts up and away you go - no need for calibration, but let the oil warm up and circulate a while before revving it up.


http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/buying-re-con-turbo-229428.html
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/new-turbo-massive-hike-power-driveability-230009.html

On the down-side, I did have to take it off again shortly afterwards and Helicoil one of the exhaust studs, which had pulled out.....Maybe I overtightened? Maybe it was cross-threaded when refitted by the supplier, maybe the casing threads were weak anyway before it was recondioned? who knows...
Click to expand...

Thanks. I thought the IRD did need to be removed and I am so glad I can do this without having to do that. All of a sudden the job feels like one I fancy tackling!

I might actually purchase a pair of ramps just so that I can get the vehicle as high as possible.
 
Search hippo ramps

I was also going to say after reading the thread title that axle stands are not a good substitute for a turbo!! :behindsofa:
 
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