Trying to change cambelt

Hi folks ,

after plucking up the courage to do my cambelt, I'm stumped at the first hurdle. The bolt through the pulley wheel on the crankshaft will not shift. I'm giving it plenty of heat, and moving up on shift bar size. Whats the chances of me shearing the bolt? I've got a scaffoding bar (7ft) to attach to a 3/4 drive, and that's potentially a fair amount of pressure I can exert.

So, heat it up some more, any other suggestions before the big bar comes out?
Cheers
Ken

It's done up to about 400Nm and threadlocked, so it's fookin tight.

Disconnect the stop solenoid on the IP, then wedge a long breaker bar on the nut under the o/s chassis rail and give the starter motor a quick burst.
They'll be a fookin loud bang as it goes.

And there will be a loud bang if it doesent! Mine dident go like that, and i was ****ed of with it so i gave the engine a 90 degree run up on the chassis, it fired in that space belive it or not, and broke the nut free.

Ive heard people say that a long scafold pole has more tourque than the motor, i duno if thats true or not.

woods767 said:

i gave the engine a 90 degree run up on the chassis, it fired in that space belive it or not, and broke the nut free.

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err - that's why you should disconnect the stop solenoid first!

Yep But it did me the favor of undoing the nut too, in the time it took me to turn the engine off.

Breaker bar and a piece of scaffold pole worked for me

Breaker bar and good old brute force.
Why put all that strain on your poor old starter ?
I've used a four foot scaffold tube slipped over a two foot breaker bar before now.
Just watch your knuckles when it lets go.

Magic !
Atleast I know I'm doing roughly the right thing, thanks for the info.
cheers
Ken

What engine are you doing it on?

woods767 said:

Ive heard people say that a long scafold pole has more tourque than the motor, i duno if thats true or not.

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Very true. Torque for a 2.5 turbo like mine is 150 ft lbs. So a 10 foot 30 pound scaffold pole, slid horizontally onto your socket T bar, will be exerting the same torque as your engine, without you pressing on it. The weight of the tube is sufficient.

Or a 10 foot infinitely light pole needs you to apply 15 pounds on to it to equal the engine.

Might seem 'not much' (if you think about it, this means that you could wind your Landy up the steepest slopes with a ten foot pole on the crank of a dead engine - with very little effort) when compared to the torque needed for the nut, but that's precisely why the nut has to be so tight. Shock torques are what are gonna loosen nuts.

Its a 300Tdi - does this make a difference?! Sunday's the day - if anyone has a good reason for me not to do this, now's the time to tell me!

Use a long pole - get someone to help you, put it in top gear and get them to stand on the brakes. Take up the slack in the transmission, and then loosen it. Much more controlled - i really don't like the idea of sockets flying round my engine bay!

SHouldn' take more than a couple of hours to do once youve got that nut off.

Boydy

Kennymac said:

Its a 300Tdi - does this make a difference?! Sunday's the day - if anyone has a good reason for me not to do this, now's the time to tell me!

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Makes a huge difference, now if ye had a Freelander Td4 ye wouldn't have to bother with all this cambelt nonsense would ye.

chromiumuk said:

Makes a huge difference, now if ye had a Freelander Td4 ye wouldn't have to bother with all this cambelt nonsense would ye.

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Or a TD5.
Give me a good old timing chain over a rubber belt anyday.

Shifty1962 said:

Or a TD5.
Give me a good old timing chain over a rubber belt anyday.

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Defo.