Freelander 1 Transmission Problems

Hello all need some advice on possible causes for my problem I have a JATCO autobox Freelander 1 TD4, Problem : Reverse gear does not engage until the engine reaches it's normal operation temp, in Drive all gears work fine changing as normal, I also have noticed that when the engine temp reaches it optimal temp the gear selector gets a bit stiff, ( when the engine is cold the gear selector moves quite free, But when it heats up that when its a bit stiff ) any help advice would be greatly appreciated as usual.

I've been searching here for info on auto boxes and there are hundreds of threads. Best have a read through as many of them as you can (stick auto in the search box at the top of the page) but common consensus is fluid change is important and would probably fix your issues but it is critical the work is done correctly. Refill with too much and you WILL blow seals, not enough and the torque converter WILL be stuffed.

Alibro said:

I've been searching here for info on auto boxes and there are hundreds of threads. Best have a read through as many of them as you can (stick auto in the search box at the top of the page) but common consensus is fluid change is important and would probably fix your issues but it is critical the work is done correctly. Refill with too much and you WILL blow seals, not enough and the torque converter WILL be stuffed.

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Thanks was reading mostly the same thing and had it in mind so I will try and schedule a oil change A.S.A.P again thanks.

Make sure you know which is the level plug, undo the wrong one and you will lose reverse completely!!

Sounds like an out of adjustment control cable.

When in D does the lever move to the right into sport mode ok without feeling a notch forwards or backwards?
When moving left from sport to D does it move ok without feeling a notch forward or backwards?
When moving from sport to D does it sometimes display 4 instead?
When in D if you gently rock the lever forwards/backwards does it display 4 instead of D sometimes?
If yes to these questions then I would think the cable needs adjustment.

Thanks for the help and advice will be checking over the weekend.

Ok checked the adjustment control cable and it's good, next I started the vehicle and brought it up to normal running temp did not have a temp meter so it took a couple minutes then checked the oil level after making sure it was the right plug I was undoing, now i believe there was too much oil in because over a quart came out the level port and I'm guessing that could have contributed to the stiff lever when the oil get's hot, next the oil is very dark so I have to do a change, and I also noticed a small leak so when I am done with the oil change i'll report back, oh and I was wondering about the oil replacement what do you recommend thanks.

sejo_tt said:

Ok checked the adjustment control cable and it's good, next I started the vehicle and brought it up to normal running temp did not have a temp meter so it took a couple minutes then checked the oil level after making sure it was the right plug I was undoing, now i believe there was too much oil in because over a quart came out the level port and I'm guessing that could have contributed to the stiff lever when the oil get's hot, next the oil is very dark so I have to do a change, and I also noticed a small leak so when I am done with the oil change i'll report back, oh and I was wondering about the oil replacement what do you recommend thanks.

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hi mate

filling the gearbox up at the correct temp , between 35-45 c is critical , don't use a thermal one but one u can push into the filler hole

cant stress it enough in getting it to the correct temp

hippo has done an excellent write up, step by step and extremely informative

hope that helps abit

gstuart said:

hi mate

filling the gearbox up at the correct temp , between 35-45 c is critical , don't use a thermal one but one u can push into the filler hole

cant stress it enough in getting it to the correct temp

hippo has done an excellent write up, step by step and extremely informative

hope that helps abit

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Thanks.

sejo_tt said:

Ok checked the adjustment control cable and it's good, next I started the vehicle and brought it up to normal running temp did not have a temp meter so it took a couple minutes then checked the oil level after making sure it was the right plug I was undoing, now i believe there was too much oil in because over a quart came out the level port and I'm guessing that could have contributed to the stiff lever when the oil get's hot, next the oil is very dark so I have to do a change, and I also noticed a small leak so when I am done with the oil change i'll report back, oh and I was wondering about the oil replacement what do you recommend thanks.

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We often find auto's are filled higher than the said correct level. Normally about 0.5L more than expected. I think this is because LR drain then fill with 4L and leave it, but can't get proof of this. The method we use is tried and tested over many vehicles over many miles and works for those who follow it propper. It's comes from the Haynes, rave and a few other sources. Colour of oil can't always be relied on. The LR stuff is red but other makes are different colours. If the clutches are burning then you get a burnt smell. The LR red stuff turns from red to a red with slight brown when used, but seems to run ok like this.

Assuming goo gle is right then a quart is about 0.5L. This won't be causing the issue you have.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/jatco-automatic-gearbox.69336/page-3

Thanks for the link and advise Hippo on one of my bottles it say's, 1 U.S quart 946ml and what I drained was more than one of those bottles,also is there a alternative oil can I use.

Just done both drive shafts and lost 1.5 litres out the n/s drive shaft hole, put the 1.5 litres back in and took it for a run.
Warmed the box as the manual says and Hippo's first class write up, took the level plug out and collected Half a litre of
oil.
Think the half a litre to much theory might be spot on.
Now its half a litre lighter, the box changes nicer and earlier, always thought the gear change should be sooner, this seems
to have cured that. Hardly feel it change now and much nicer to drive.

sejo_tt said:

Thanks for the link and advise Hippo on one of my bottles it say's, 1 U.S quart 946ml and what I drained was more than one of those bottles,also is there a alternative oil can I use.

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Are you sure the engine was on tick over when removing the level plug?

Niffty said:

Just done both drive shafts and lost 1.5 litres out the n/s drive shaft hole, put the 1.5 litres back in and took it for a run.
Warmed the box as the manual says and Hippo's first class write up, took the level plug out and collected Half a litre of
oil.
Think the half a litre to much theory might be spot on.
Now its half a litre lighter, the box changes nicer and earlier, always thought the gear change should be sooner, this seems
to have cured that. Hardly feel it change now and much nicer to drive.

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After putting the oil in you should not drive it. You should follow the correct procedure to check the level. It may have been ok for you on this occasion but you have to consider one day someone may copy what you have done and not be so lucky.

Hippo said:

Are you sure the engine was on tick over when removing the level plug?

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Sorry for the delay but no the engine was not running, I only read your write up on the procedure after, right now its parked up for the coming week so I can get the oil and do a oil change following the steps in your write up, Thanks again.

The book says drive it to warm the oil up. All seems well and like i said, seems to work better now.

Niffty said:

The book says drive it to warm the oil up. All seems well and like i said, seems to work better now.

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Letting the engine idle for 10 minutes is more than enough. Driving the car makes the fluid to hot for level checking.

Niffty said:

The book says drive it to warm the oil up. All seems well and like i said, seems to work better now.

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Which book?

If you measure the auto oil and engine coolant from cold after starting the engine you'll see the engine coolant temp rises faster than the auto oil, which we understand is heated by the engine coolant via the fluid cooler which takes a flow of both liquids. The temp we need is the actual auto oil as opposed to the heat generated from the auto being driven etc.

The reason for pointing peeps to the long fred on ere where it was discussed/tried is to give them the understanding of what we tried, and how we went about it. Not all guides give the full picture. The theory is they can either follow what we did knowing it worked for us, or go it alone. Often we're told not to go to such extremes of following the instructions to the precise letter as it's just a f***ing auto... but some have found out it's a f***ing expensive auto if it goes wrong. I'm a member of that club but not because I did anything wrong. My auto leaked and feked up by itself. There's still some mystery around the temp needing to be so precise. But for now we follow the rules and live in hope.

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