Transmission fail safe - 2006 Range Rover 3.0TD Vogue SE

Yes it's my brothers garage they fix anything that has an engine, it was my dads garage for 37 years before him and my brother has the same car just 2 years older although he doesn't rebuild gearboxs really as it's more specialist.
He's going to call his gearbox guy in the morning for me.

There shouldn't be that much oil in there surely??
I literally gently undone the filler plug and it fired out like I'd taken the sump plug off an engine that was full of oil.
I had to put the bolt back in to stop it.
I thought these were just filled a few times until it trickled out?

I test drive it round the block after and got the same transmission error code 3
35 again like I had before and first of all it revved and didn't move kinda like clutch slip in a manual but then engaged.

So confused I thought if the gearbox broke it wouldnt drive or change gears but it does perfectly apart from the very light jolt and 2 little slips....

Anyone else had anything like this or the same error code?

Thanks
Shaun

P1884 (35) * CAN message: Engine speed invalid Maintains current gear in low range, limp home mode in high range. Shift pressure to maximum, harsh gearshifts/engagement. On On

This code again

If you drain a box which is up on a ramp at 6 feet and try to drain into a little tub it's gonna splash....tell your brother to get with the program and buy a real drainer. Messy barstewards, if you did that on my ramp you'd have to seriously beg for mercy!!

Roughly, your box needs 3.5 litres after a dump so you put in 3.5L, then you start engine and run until box is minimum 40 degrees C, (I use infra red thermometer aimed at g/box sump), then you open the level plug,,,,, if it pours out let it, if it don't add more until it does, correct level is correct temperature and barely a trickle from level plug.

ShaunHorwood said:

Well that was an experience Had it up on the ramp, warm but not hot and took out the oil filler plug on the top left side and litres of oil came out I was expecting none or a dribble not tons......

Now I'm worried

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im afraid to say Mr Shaun, you have a serious case of gearbox projectile vomiting!! Here take these antibiotics for two weeks and then come back for the real ones!!!
still, better out than in, albeit not in this case!!!
here's hoping its not an expensive repair...

I trust the engine was running when you removed the fill/level plug - else it will spew its contents all over the floor.

Ohhh.... so this is normal if the engine isn't running? I selected all drive, neutral, reverse and then back to neutral but didn't have the engine running when I actually took out the filler plug?
I was told to expect a trickle or none of it was low but about a litre flew out.... hence why I only had that small pan instead of his high level oil draining machine out. I did ask to use it but one of the mechanics said it would be next to nothing :/

So if the engine is running when you check the level how does it keep the oil in?

Any ideas on what that code could mean?
I'm praying some other component is faulty and not the entire box to be rebuilt,

Thanks guys

With the engine running, the gearbox pump will draw oil from the sump and begin to fill the torque converter, the oil cooler and all the oil galleries in the valve block and drive clutches. This results in the level in the sump dropping to the correct level.

The Oil level must be checked with the engine running, fluid temperature f around 40degC and after going through all the drive gear positions (this helps to fill the oil galleries in the valve block). Then with the engine still running, remove the fill/level plug and fill until a thin dribble begins to spill out, replace the plug and job done. Turning off the engine with the plug out will cause all the oil that was being pumped around the system to run back into the sump and over flow it.

Saint.V8 said:

With the engine running, the gearbox pump will draw oil from the sump and begin to fill the torque converter, the oil cooler and all the oil galleries in the valve block and drive clutches. This results in the level in the sump dropping to the correct level.

The Oil level must be checked with the engine running, fluid temperature f around 40degC and after going through all the drive gear positions (this helps to fill the oil galleries in the valve block). Then with the engine still running, remove the fill/level plug and fill until a thin dribble begins to spill out, replace the plug and job done. Turning off the engine with the plug out will cause all the oil that was being pumped around the system to run back into the sump and over flow it.

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Ooohhhh bugger

Thanks Saint.V8 you have eased my mind a little as I was thinking someone had over filled it to hide problems. Cheers!

I am releaved but I'm still stuck with the other fault that's happened twice where it revved and didn't move, that and the fault code gearbox monitor 3 - 35 code as in above post.... some about invalid engine speed but this time it happened while I was driving around 15mph.

I'm hoping the gearbox guru my brother uses will be able to explain what's wrong,
Fingers and toes crossed!

So I have had my box rebuilt, standard torque converter failure, clutch plates burnt out, new complete seal kit, filter and pump parts replaced.... the whole box has been checked out by a specialist and anything on its way out or not perfect replaced.

Spent my evening putting it back in and it's ready to start up tomorrow but I wanted to check if there is set procedure to the first run up? Or anything else I need to do first?

I've had the fluid cooler completely flushed and It has 9 litres of atf in there ready.

Thanks