Transfer case whine - 96 Auto Disco I

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I had to reply to this one as it happened to us - the 96 should have a cross
drilled gear but I have seen 98's without

Anyway the input gear will only solve the clunking - worn shaft splines, but
the whine are the gears not meshing correctly

The 230 is a swine to shim up = we put a set of Ashcroft high ratio gears in
a 300 not so long ago and the output shaft (to the prop shafts) has so much
play it was un true

We did the maths and had to fit a 0.60 inch shim to take up the play

When you have 2 x taper roller bearings on a shaft and very loose, then
there is more play on the shaft, thus a lower contact area for the gear
teeth - as the teeth are further apart and not correctly meshed hence the
whine

Now we didn't have all the fancy tools you need to put the shim beneath the
bearing seat, so we pulled the bearing off the shaft itself, and had a shim
machined to suit - put it all back together and it was lovely!

Not rocket science, but a right prat about - even on the bench!

Mike

Britannica Restorations Ltd

Canada

"Scot Kight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:2ynsd.1257$2R3.337@lakeread02...
> Ok since I am sure everyone here is waiting with baited breath. The steve
> parker mainshaft oil feeder did NOT fix the gear whine. Absolutely no
> change whatsoever. Neither did repacking the mainshaft's bearings in
> grease. Be aware, I am not disparaging SP for their unit, as it still
> supplies oil to the shaft and is still "a good thing" for those of us
> without the crossdrilled mainshafts. It just does not do anything to

remove
> any noise in my vehicle.
>
> If anyone else has any advice, please let me know. The whine is driving

me
> nuts in the 30mph range.
>
> BTW: The mainshaft bearing keeper was "stuck" on in my case because the
> service people working on the truck before I purchased must have taken the
> PTO cover off for an inspection, and decided some RTV was just as good as
> the proper gasket. Once I broke it free from that, it came off.
>
> Scot
>
>
> "Scot Kight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:ZqUod.3929$SA.217@lakeread02...
> >I believe I have a classic case of transmission whine. No sound at idle,
> >nothing more than I would expect on a D-R clunk, no driveline lash, but
> >when under power and driving a whining sound can be heard from the
> >transmission tunnel/passenger area. The whining is directly related to
> >vehicle speed and not how hard I press the throttle or rpm. Whine is
> >elimintated when the throttle is fully lifted.
> >
> > It increases in volume 30-50mph then is steady to about 60 where it

drops
> > off again. Unfortunately it can be quite loud, and is right at a

grating
> > frequency for me.
> >
> > Tcase has Mobile 1 75w90 gear oil in filled to the proper level.
> >
> > I was considering trying 75w140 to see if that improved it, but want
> > confirmation it wont hurt anything first. I also will probably be
> > ordering the mainshaft oil feeder built by Steve Parker
> > http://www.steve-parker.co.uk/designed.htm some time in the near future,
> > if anyone knows a USA based dealer, please post who in a reply. I am

sure
> > plenty of people want to know this.
> >
> > One site suggested filling the tcase 1/2 quart above full to reduce the
> > whine. The only way I could think of doing this is to remove the pto
> > cover and somehow get more in that way. Possibly taking out the output
> > shaft to do it, but I haven't popped the pto shaft yet so I have no idea
> > what it looks behind there or if that is even a possibility.
> >
> >
> > If anyone has any other suggestions, please let me know.
> >
> > Scot
> >

>
>



 
Scot Hi,

have you checked the front and rear axle bearings?

Take care
Pantelis

"Scot Kight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:r%osd.1261$2R3.83@lakeread02...
> The noise is directly related to vehicle speed and not gearing so I doubt

it
> is the transmission related. It could of course be either diff, but the
> sound appears to definitely be coming from the passenger side floor. It
> begins at about 15mph, by 30-40mph it is fairly loud, I would estimate

80db
> or so, maybe a bit louder, and somewhere around 8000hz. As the vehicle

goes
> faster, and under load, the sound will increase to about 12khz but not get
> much louder at 50mph, by 60mph the sound goes up to about 13khz, but the
> amplitude drops dramatically and it can barely be heard any more.
>
>
>
> Tcase/Diffs are all using 75w90 Mobile 1 synthetic gear lube. Synthetic

ATF
> in the transmission. Fluid levels are all correct. All fluid is brand

new.
>
> Scot
>
>
>
> "Pantelis Giamarellos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Scot Hi,
> >
> > sorry to hear that you have not had a reduction in noise.
> > But 30 mph sounds a bit slow as a speed to have so much noise generated
> > from
> > the Tbox.
> >
> > Have you also checked your automatic gearbox and front/rear axles?
> >
> > What type of gear oil are you using in your Tbox and axles?
> >
> > Take care
> > Pantelis
> >
> > "Scot Kight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:2ynsd.1257$2R3.337@lakeread02...
> >> Ok since I am sure everyone here is waiting with baited breath. The
> >> steve
> >> parker mainshaft oil feeder did NOT fix the gear whine. Absolutely no
> >> change whatsoever. Neither did repacking the mainshaft's bearings in
> >> grease. Be aware, I am not disparaging SP for their unit, as it still
> >> supplies oil to the shaft and is still "a good thing" for those of us
> >> without the crossdrilled mainshafts. It just does not do anything to

> > remove
> >> any noise in my vehicle.
> >>
> >> If anyone else has any advice, please let me know. The whine is

driving
> > me
> >> nuts in the 30mph range.
> >>
> >> BTW: The mainshaft bearing keeper was "stuck" on in my case because the
> >> service people working on the truck before I purchased must have taken
> >> the
> >> PTO cover off for an inspection, and decided some RTV was just as good

as
> >> the proper gasket. Once I broke it free from that, it came off.
> >>
> >> Scot
> >>
> >>
> >> "Scot Kight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> news:ZqUod.3929$SA.217@lakeread02...
> >> >I believe I have a classic case of transmission whine. No sound at
> >> >idle,
> >> >nothing more than I would expect on a D-R clunk, no driveline lash,

but
> >> >when under power and driving a whining sound can be heard from the
> >> >transmission tunnel/passenger area. The whining is directly related to
> >> >vehicle speed and not how hard I press the throttle or rpm. Whine is
> >> >elimintated when the throttle is fully lifted.
> >> >
> >> > It increases in volume 30-50mph then is steady to about 60 where it

> > drops
> >> > off again. Unfortunately it can be quite loud, and is right at a

> > grating
> >> > frequency for me.
> >> >
> >> > Tcase has Mobile 1 75w90 gear oil in filled to the proper level.
> >> >
> >> > I was considering trying 75w140 to see if that improved it, but want
> >> > confirmation it wont hurt anything first. I also will probably be
> >> > ordering the mainshaft oil feeder built by Steve Parker
> >> > http://www.steve-parker.co.uk/designed.htm some time in the near
> >> > future,
> >> > if anyone knows a USA based dealer, please post who in a reply. I am

> > sure
> >> > plenty of people want to know this.
> >> >
> >> > One site suggested filling the tcase 1/2 quart above full to reduce

the
> >> > whine. The only way I could think of doing this is to remove the pto
> >> > cover and somehow get more in that way. Possibly taking out the

output
> >> > shaft to do it, but I haven't popped the pto shaft yet so I have no
> >> > idea
> >> > what it looks behind there or if that is even a possibility.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > If anyone has any other suggestions, please let me know.
> >> >
> >> > Scot
> >> >
> >>
> >>

> >
> >

>
>



 
Not sure how to check them on this truck. Is it just like a car with trying
to rock the tire on its horizontal axis? What I tried is to put the truck
in neutral while rolling, which of course removes all of the sound so that
means it is only under power, or braking. Then I tried to brake under
power, which seems to bring the sound back a bit, then I tried to brake
under neurtral, and I did not hear the noise. Problem is braking has its
own noises and the decel noise is quite quiet anyways so its hard to say.

Bearings in the wheels would definitely be my favored issue! Much easier to
pull the wheels/hubs and replace than removing the tcase.

The noise itself is immediate as soon as power is supplied , even a very
small amount of power.
"Pantelis Giamarellos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Scot Hi,
>
> have you checked the front and rear axle bearings?
>
> Take care
> Pantelis
>
> "Scot Kight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:r%osd.1261$2R3.83@lakeread02...
>> The noise is directly related to vehicle speed and not gearing so I doubt

> it
>> is the transmission related. It could of course be either diff, but the
>> sound appears to definitely be coming from the passenger side floor. It
>> begins at about 15mph, by 30-40mph it is fairly loud, I would estimate

> 80db
>> or so, maybe a bit louder, and somewhere around 8000hz. As the vehicle

> goes
>> faster, and under load, the sound will increase to about 12khz but not
>> get
>> much louder at 50mph, by 60mph the sound goes up to about 13khz, but the
>> amplitude drops dramatically and it can barely be heard any more.
>>
>>
>>
>> Tcase/Diffs are all using 75w90 Mobile 1 synthetic gear lube. Synthetic

> ATF
>> in the transmission. Fluid levels are all correct. All fluid is brand

> new.
>>
>> Scot
>>
>>
>>
>> "Pantelis Giamarellos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > Scot Hi,
>> >
>> > sorry to hear that you have not had a reduction in noise.
>> > But 30 mph sounds a bit slow as a speed to have so much noise generated
>> > from
>> > the Tbox.
>> >
>> > Have you also checked your automatic gearbox and front/rear axles?
>> >
>> > What type of gear oil are you using in your Tbox and axles?
>> >
>> > Take care
>> > Pantelis
>> >
>> > "Scot Kight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> > news:2ynsd.1257$2R3.337@lakeread02...
>> >> Ok since I am sure everyone here is waiting with baited breath. The
>> >> steve
>> >> parker mainshaft oil feeder did NOT fix the gear whine. Absolutely no
>> >> change whatsoever. Neither did repacking the mainshaft's bearings in
>> >> grease. Be aware, I am not disparaging SP for their unit, as it still
>> >> supplies oil to the shaft and is still "a good thing" for those of us
>> >> without the crossdrilled mainshafts. It just does not do anything to
>> > remove
>> >> any noise in my vehicle.
>> >>
>> >> If anyone else has any advice, please let me know. The whine is

> driving
>> > me
>> >> nuts in the 30mph range.
>> >>
>> >> BTW: The mainshaft bearing keeper was "stuck" on in my case because
>> >> the
>> >> service people working on the truck before I purchased must have taken
>> >> the
>> >> PTO cover off for an inspection, and decided some RTV was just as good

> as
>> >> the proper gasket. Once I broke it free from that, it came off.
>> >>
>> >> Scot
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> "Scot Kight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> >> news:ZqUod.3929$SA.217@lakeread02...
>> >> >I believe I have a classic case of transmission whine. No sound at
>> >> >idle,
>> >> >nothing more than I would expect on a D-R clunk, no driveline lash,

> but
>> >> >when under power and driving a whining sound can be heard from the
>> >> >transmission tunnel/passenger area. The whining is directly related
>> >> >to
>> >> >vehicle speed and not how hard I press the throttle or rpm. Whine is
>> >> >elimintated when the throttle is fully lifted.
>> >> >
>> >> > It increases in volume 30-50mph then is steady to about 60 where it
>> > drops
>> >> > off again. Unfortunately it can be quite loud, and is right at a
>> > grating
>> >> > frequency for me.
>> >> >
>> >> > Tcase has Mobile 1 75w90 gear oil in filled to the proper level.
>> >> >
>> >> > I was considering trying 75w140 to see if that improved it, but want
>> >> > confirmation it wont hurt anything first. I also will probably be
>> >> > ordering the mainshaft oil feeder built by Steve Parker
>> >> > http://www.steve-parker.co.uk/designed.htm some time in the near
>> >> > future,
>> >> > if anyone knows a USA based dealer, please post who in a reply. I
>> >> > am
>> > sure
>> >> > plenty of people want to know this.
>> >> >
>> >> > One site suggested filling the tcase 1/2 quart above full to reduce

> the
>> >> > whine. The only way I could think of doing this is to remove the
>> >> > pto
>> >> > cover and somehow get more in that way. Possibly taking out the

> output
>> >> > shaft to do it, but I haven't popped the pto shaft yet so I have no
>> >> > idea
>> >> > what it looks behind there or if that is even a possibility.
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> > If anyone has any other suggestions, please let me know.
>> >> >
>> >> > Scot
>> >> >
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >

>>
>>

>
>



 
Can you post up a bit more of a description of how to do this? Unfortunatly
I have little to no experience with transmissions, so I wouldn't know where
to start to look.

Thanks,
Scot

"Britrest" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I had to reply to this one as it happened to us - the 96 should have a
>cross
> drilled gear but I have seen 98's without
>
> Anyway the input gear will only solve the clunking - worn shaft splines,
> but
> the whine are the gears not meshing correctly
>
> The 230 is a swine to shim up = we put a set of Ashcroft high ratio gears
> in
> a 300 not so long ago and the output shaft (to the prop shafts) has so
> much
> play it was un true
>
> We did the maths and had to fit a 0.60 inch shim to take up the play
>
> When you have 2 x taper roller bearings on a shaft and very loose, then
> there is more play on the shaft, thus a lower contact area for the gear
> teeth - as the teeth are further apart and not correctly meshed hence the
> whine
>
> Now we didn't have all the fancy tools you need to put the shim beneath
> the
> bearing seat, so we pulled the bearing off the shaft itself, and had a
> shim
> machined to suit - put it all back together and it was lovely!
>
> Not rocket science, but a right prat about - even on the bench!
>
> Mike
>
> Britannica Restorations Ltd
>
> Canada
>
> "Scot Kight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:2ynsd.1257$2R3.337@lakeread02...
>> Ok since I am sure everyone here is waiting with baited breath. The
>> steve
>> parker mainshaft oil feeder did NOT fix the gear whine. Absolutely no
>> change whatsoever. Neither did repacking the mainshaft's bearings in
>> grease. Be aware, I am not disparaging SP for their unit, as it still
>> supplies oil to the shaft and is still "a good thing" for those of us
>> without the crossdrilled mainshafts. It just does not do anything to

> remove
>> any noise in my vehicle.
>>
>> If anyone else has any advice, please let me know. The whine is driving

> me
>> nuts in the 30mph range.
>>
>> BTW: The mainshaft bearing keeper was "stuck" on in my case because the
>> service people working on the truck before I purchased must have taken
>> the
>> PTO cover off for an inspection, and decided some RTV was just as good as
>> the proper gasket. Once I broke it free from that, it came off.
>>
>> Scot
>>
>>
>> "Scot Kight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:ZqUod.3929$SA.217@lakeread02...
>> >I believe I have a classic case of transmission whine. No sound at
>> >idle,
>> >nothing more than I would expect on a D-R clunk, no driveline lash, but
>> >when under power and driving a whining sound can be heard from the
>> >transmission tunnel/passenger area. The whining is directly related to
>> >vehicle speed and not how hard I press the throttle or rpm. Whine is
>> >elimintated when the throttle is fully lifted.
>> >
>> > It increases in volume 30-50mph then is steady to about 60 where it

> drops
>> > off again. Unfortunately it can be quite loud, and is right at a

> grating
>> > frequency for me.
>> >
>> > Tcase has Mobile 1 75w90 gear oil in filled to the proper level.
>> >
>> > I was considering trying 75w140 to see if that improved it, but want
>> > confirmation it wont hurt anything first. I also will probably be
>> > ordering the mainshaft oil feeder built by Steve Parker
>> > http://www.steve-parker.co.uk/designed.htm some time in the near
>> > future,
>> > if anyone knows a USA based dealer, please post who in a reply. I am

> sure
>> > plenty of people want to know this.
>> >
>> > One site suggested filling the tcase 1/2 quart above full to reduce the
>> > whine. The only way I could think of doing this is to remove the pto
>> > cover and somehow get more in that way. Possibly taking out the output
>> > shaft to do it, but I haven't popped the pto shaft yet so I have no
>> > idea
>> > what it looks behind there or if that is even a possibility.
>> >
>> >
>> > If anyone has any other suggestions, please let me know.
>> >
>> > Scot
>> >

>>
>>

>
>



 
Scot Hi,

A simple way to check the bearings on your front axle is to jack the vehicle
up and check the wheel (with the rim and tyre still mounted) for play.
Push/pull the wheel grabbing it from its upper and lower part. If you find
play in there most probably it is from the bearings. If the play persists
when you press the brake pedal then most probably you have play on the
locating pins/bearings of the swivels.
This testing procedure was posted sometime ago on this discussion group. I
have not tried it but it sounds very logical.

As for the noise being audible when you apply power this is a VERY strong
indication of a differential approaching its death.

Take care
Pantelis



"Scot Kight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:xDGsd.2041$1y.1379@lakeread02...
> Not sure how to check them on this truck. Is it just like a car with

trying
> to rock the tire on its horizontal axis? What I tried is to put the truck
> in neutral while rolling, which of course removes all of the sound so that
> means it is only under power, or braking. Then I tried to brake under
> power, which seems to bring the sound back a bit, then I tried to brake
> under neurtral, and I did not hear the noise. Problem is braking has its
> own noises and the decel noise is quite quiet anyways so its hard to say.
>
> Bearings in the wheels would definitely be my favored issue! Much easier

to
> pull the wheels/hubs and replace than removing the tcase.



>
> The noise itself is immediate as soon as power is supplied , even a very
> small amount of power.
> "Pantelis Giamarellos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Scot Hi,
> >
> > have you checked the front and rear axle bearings?
> >
> > Take care
> > Pantelis
> >
> > "Scot Kight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:r%osd.1261$2R3.83@lakeread02...
> >> The noise is directly related to vehicle speed and not gearing so I

doubt
> > it
> >> is the transmission related. It could of course be either diff, but

the
> >> sound appears to definitely be coming from the passenger side floor.

It
> >> begins at about 15mph, by 30-40mph it is fairly loud, I would estimate

> > 80db
> >> or so, maybe a bit louder, and somewhere around 8000hz. As the vehicle

> > goes
> >> faster, and under load, the sound will increase to about 12khz but not
> >> get
> >> much louder at 50mph, by 60mph the sound goes up to about 13khz, but

the
> >> amplitude drops dramatically and it can barely be heard any more.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Tcase/Diffs are all using 75w90 Mobile 1 synthetic gear lube.

Synthetic
> > ATF
> >> in the transmission. Fluid levels are all correct. All fluid is brand

> > new.
> >>
> >> Scot
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> "Pantelis Giamarellos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> news:[email protected]...
> >> > Scot Hi,
> >> >
> >> > sorry to hear that you have not had a reduction in noise.
> >> > But 30 mph sounds a bit slow as a speed to have so much noise

generated
> >> > from
> >> > the Tbox.
> >> >
> >> > Have you also checked your automatic gearbox and front/rear axles?
> >> >
> >> > What type of gear oil are you using in your Tbox and axles?
> >> >
> >> > Take care
> >> > Pantelis
> >> >
> >> > "Scot Kight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> > news:2ynsd.1257$2R3.337@lakeread02...
> >> >> Ok since I am sure everyone here is waiting with baited breath. The
> >> >> steve
> >> >> parker mainshaft oil feeder did NOT fix the gear whine. Absolutely

no
> >> >> change whatsoever. Neither did repacking the mainshaft's bearings

in
> >> >> grease. Be aware, I am not disparaging SP for their unit, as it

still
> >> >> supplies oil to the shaft and is still "a good thing" for those of

us
> >> >> without the crossdrilled mainshafts. It just does not do anything

to
> >> > remove
> >> >> any noise in my vehicle.
> >> >>
> >> >> If anyone else has any advice, please let me know. The whine is

> > driving
> >> > me
> >> >> nuts in the 30mph range.
> >> >>
> >> >> BTW: The mainshaft bearing keeper was "stuck" on in my case because
> >> >> the
> >> >> service people working on the truck before I purchased must have

taken
> >> >> the
> >> >> PTO cover off for an inspection, and decided some RTV was just as

good
> > as
> >> >> the proper gasket. Once I broke it free from that, it came off.
> >> >>
> >> >> Scot
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> "Scot Kight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> >> news:ZqUod.3929$SA.217@lakeread02...
> >> >> >I believe I have a classic case of transmission whine. No sound at
> >> >> >idle,
> >> >> >nothing more than I would expect on a D-R clunk, no driveline lash,

> > but
> >> >> >when under power and driving a whining sound can be heard from the
> >> >> >transmission tunnel/passenger area. The whining is directly related
> >> >> >to
> >> >> >vehicle speed and not how hard I press the throttle or rpm. Whine

is
> >> >> >elimintated when the throttle is fully lifted.
> >> >> >
> >> >> > It increases in volume 30-50mph then is steady to about 60 where

it
> >> > drops
> >> >> > off again. Unfortunately it can be quite loud, and is right at a
> >> > grating
> >> >> > frequency for me.
> >> >> >
> >> >> > Tcase has Mobile 1 75w90 gear oil in filled to the proper level.
> >> >> >
> >> >> > I was considering trying 75w140 to see if that improved it, but

want
> >> >> > confirmation it wont hurt anything first. I also will probably be
> >> >> > ordering the mainshaft oil feeder built by Steve Parker
> >> >> > http://www.steve-parker.co.uk/designed.htm some time in the near
> >> >> > future,
> >> >> > if anyone knows a USA based dealer, please post who in a reply. I
> >> >> > am
> >> > sure
> >> >> > plenty of people want to know this.
> >> >> >
> >> >> > One site suggested filling the tcase 1/2 quart above full to

reduce
> > the
> >> >> > whine. The only way I could think of doing this is to remove the
> >> >> > pto
> >> >> > cover and somehow get more in that way. Possibly taking out the

> > output
> >> >> > shaft to do it, but I haven't popped the pto shaft yet so I have

no
> >> >> > idea
> >> >> > what it looks behind there or if that is even a possibility.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >
> >> >> > If anyone has any other suggestions, please let me know.
> >> >> >
> >> >> > Scot
> >> >> >
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>

> >
> >

>
>



 

"Pantelis Giamarellos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Scot Hi,
>
> A simple way to check the bearings on your front axle is to jack the

vehicle
> up and check the wheel (with the rim and tyre still mounted) for play.
> Push/pull the wheel grabbing it from its upper and lower part. If you find
> play in there most probably it is from the bearings. If the play persists
> when you press the brake pedal then most probably you have play on the
> locating pins/bearings of the swivels.
> This testing procedure was posted sometime ago on this discussion group. I
> have not tried it but it sounds very logical.
>
> As for the noise being audible when you apply power this is a VERY strong
> indication of a differential approaching its death.


I've seen slack in the pinion shaft where you can move the propshaft flange
from side to side and that did howl


 
Ok, how do I test to see if its the front diff vs the tcase? That could
definitely be a possibility due to where the noise is coming from. I tried
to move the diff lever left and right while driving as others say that
should change the "note" a bit if it is the issue. No change whatsoever.
If it is the diff, what then? Just save some pennies for a new one or can
they be rebuilt? I am not looking at changing to lockers or anything
drastic, my offroading is fairly limited and the stock system seems fine, I
just need to make sure its quiet.

As for the pinion shaft, I am looking at the prop shaft part of the workshop
manual and it doesn't say much (no suprise there.) What/how should I check
for slack in the pinion shaft? Which flange should I be moving around? If
it is loose do I need to get a new propshaft or do I need to do something
else?

"George Spigot" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Pantelis Giamarellos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Scot Hi,
>>
>> A simple way to check the bearings on your front axle is to jack the

> vehicle
>> up and check the wheel (with the rim and tyre still mounted) for play.
>> Push/pull the wheel grabbing it from its upper and lower part. If you
>> find
>> play in there most probably it is from the bearings. If the play persists
>> when you press the brake pedal then most probably you have play on the
>> locating pins/bearings of the swivels.
>> This testing procedure was posted sometime ago on this discussion group.
>> I
>> have not tried it but it sounds very logical.
>>
>> As for the noise being audible when you apply power this is a VERY strong
>> indication of a differential approaching its death.

>
> I've seen slack in the pinion shaft where you can move the propshaft
> flange
> from side to side and that did howl
>
>



 
Scot Hi,

may I suggest something so that you check from which diff (front, center or
rear) the howling may come.

Remove the rear propshaft, engage difflock on the center diff and drive the
car for some distance until you can or can not listen any howling.

If you do not hear it then re-install the rear propshaft and remove the
front.
Do the same test.

In this way you will be able to establish whether the howling comes from any
of the front or rear axle.

----

As for the pinion slack I can not provide you with a sure way to check it
apart from removing the differential assembly from the axle and have it
properly checked with a micrometer gauge. IIRC the proper way to adjust the
pinion to crownwheel play is by installing the proper shims to it.

Take care
Pantelis

"Scot Kight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:WfMsd.2053$1y.265@lakeread02...
> Ok, how do I test to see if its the front diff vs the tcase? That could
> definitely be a possibility due to where the noise is coming from. I

tried
> to move the diff lever left and right while driving as others say that
> should change the "note" a bit if it is the issue. No change whatsoever.
> If it is the diff, what then? Just save some pennies for a new one or can
> they be rebuilt? I am not looking at changing to lockers or anything
> drastic, my offroading is fairly limited and the stock system seems fine,

I
> just need to make sure its quiet.
>
> As for the pinion shaft, I am looking at the prop shaft part of the

workshop
> manual and it doesn't say much (no suprise there.) What/how should I

check
> for slack in the pinion shaft? Which flange should I be moving around? If
> it is loose do I need to get a new propshaft or do I need to do something
> else?
>
> "George Spigot" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > "Pantelis Giamarellos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >> Scot Hi,
> >>
> >> A simple way to check the bearings on your front axle is to jack the

> > vehicle
> >> up and check the wheel (with the rim and tyre still mounted) for play.
> >> Push/pull the wheel grabbing it from its upper and lower part. If you
> >> find
> >> play in there most probably it is from the bearings. If the play

persists
> >> when you press the brake pedal then most probably you have play on the
> >> locating pins/bearings of the swivels.
> >> This testing procedure was posted sometime ago on this discussion

group.
> >> I
> >> have not tried it but it sounds very logical.
> >>
> >> As for the noise being audible when you apply power this is a VERY

strong
> >> indication of a differential approaching its death.

> >
> > I've seen slack in the pinion shaft where you can move the propshaft
> > flange
> > from side to side and that did howl
> >
> >

>
>



 
Just got back in from testing this out. When I removed the rear propshaft,
no difference in sound. Removing the front propshaft did reduce the sound
just SLIGHTLY, but I think its more because of a pressure difference on the
tcase than anything else.

So now the question is if the noise is constant and does not change with the
gears, is the tcase the only remaining possibility? I guess it could be the
transmission, but I would think that would change with the rpm and not the
wheel speed.

Mike: I got the email, and while I think I have plenty of mechanical
ability, I have no experience with transmission work so this might be best
left to the experts. If I supply the LT230t to a shop off the truck, how
much would you expect this kind of work to cost? Lets ignore the possibility
of worn parts right now though I am sure a bearing or two will need
replacement.

If I do get brave, does the haynes manual explain it better than the book?
I understand some of what the book is talking about, but it does ask for
special tools and processes, without much description.

Scot
"Pantelis Giamarellos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Scot Hi,
>
> may I suggest something so that you check from which diff (front, center
> or
> rear) the howling may come.
>
> Remove the rear propshaft, engage difflock on the center diff and drive
> the
> car for some distance until you can or can not listen any howling.
>
> If you do not hear it then re-install the rear propshaft and remove the
> front.
> Do the same test.
>
> In this way you will be able to establish whether the howling comes from
> any
> of the front or rear axle.
>
> ----
>
> As for the pinion slack I can not provide you with a sure way to check it
> apart from removing the differential assembly from the axle and have it
> properly checked with a micrometer gauge. IIRC the proper way to adjust
> the
> pinion to crownwheel play is by installing the proper shims to it.
>
> Take care
> Pantelis
>
> "Scot Kight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:WfMsd.2053$1y.265@lakeread02...
>> Ok, how do I test to see if its the front diff vs the tcase? That could
>> definitely be a possibility due to where the noise is coming from. I

> tried
>> to move the diff lever left and right while driving as others say that
>> should change the "note" a bit if it is the issue. No change whatsoever.
>> If it is the diff, what then? Just save some pennies for a new one or can
>> they be rebuilt? I am not looking at changing to lockers or anything
>> drastic, my offroading is fairly limited and the stock system seems fine,

> I
>> just need to make sure its quiet.
>>
>> As for the pinion shaft, I am looking at the prop shaft part of the

> workshop
>> manual and it doesn't say much (no suprise there.) What/how should I

> check
>> for slack in the pinion shaft? Which flange should I be moving around?
>> If
>> it is loose do I need to get a new propshaft or do I need to do something
>> else?
>>
>> "George Spigot" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> >
>> > "Pantelis Giamarellos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> > news:[email protected]...
>> >> Scot Hi,
>> >>
>> >> A simple way to check the bearings on your front axle is to jack the
>> > vehicle
>> >> up and check the wheel (with the rim and tyre still mounted) for play.
>> >> Push/pull the wheel grabbing it from its upper and lower part. If you
>> >> find
>> >> play in there most probably it is from the bearings. If the play

> persists
>> >> when you press the brake pedal then most probably you have play on the
>> >> locating pins/bearings of the swivels.
>> >> This testing procedure was posted sometime ago on this discussion

> group.
>> >> I
>> >> have not tried it but it sounds very logical.
>> >>
>> >> As for the noise being audible when you apply power this is a VERY

> strong
>> >> indication of a differential approaching its death.
>> >
>> > I've seen slack in the pinion shaft where you can move the propshaft
>> > flange
>> > from side to side and that did howl
>> >
>> >

>>
>>

>
>



 

"Scot" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:XfGtd.358$GH.254@lakeread02...
>..........> So now the question is if the noise is constant and does not

change with the
> gears, is the tcase the only remaining possibility? I guess it could be

the
> transmission, but I would think that would change with the rpm and not the
> wheel speed.



Scot Hi,

AFAIK if the noise is related to the transmission it must change WITH the
WHEEL SPEED and not the engine's rpm.
Unless you have a fault in your gearbox.

I remember you said that the noise gets louder when you accelerate and if
you let the gas pedal it stops even though the car still moves. Am I right?

Take care
Pantelis


 
Yes. Only with power or under hard braking, auto transmission. Fluid on
both transfer case and transmission are at proper levels.


"Pantelis Giamarellos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Scot" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:XfGtd.358$GH.254@lakeread02...
>>..........> So now the question is if the noise is constant and does not

> change with the
>> gears, is the tcase the only remaining possibility? I guess it could be

> the
>> transmission, but I would think that would change with the rpm and not
>> the
>> wheel speed.

>
>
> Scot Hi,
>
> AFAIK if the noise is related to the transmission it must change WITH the
> WHEEL SPEED and not the engine's rpm.
> Unless you have a fault in your gearbox.
>
> I remember you said that the noise gets louder when you accelerate and if
> you let the gas pedal it stops even though the car still moves. Am I
> right?
>
> Take care
> Pantelis
>
>



 
Scot I do not remember you saying anything about getting the whining noise
when you are braking hard.

Have you checked your brakes system? Any chance of having stone chips
between the pads and rotors?

Take care
Pantelis

"Scot" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:fbOtd.644$GH.641@lakeread02...
> Yes. Only with power or under hard braking, auto transmission. Fluid on
> both transfer case and transmission are at proper levels.
>
>
> "Pantelis Giamarellos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > "Scot" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:XfGtd.358$GH.254@lakeread02...
> >>..........> So now the question is if the noise is constant and does not

> > change with the
> >> gears, is the tcase the only remaining possibility? I guess it could be

> > the
> >> transmission, but I would think that would change with the rpm and not
> >> the
> >> wheel speed.

> >
> >
> > Scot Hi,
> >
> > AFAIK if the noise is related to the transmission it must change WITH

the
> > WHEEL SPEED and not the engine's rpm.
> > Unless you have a fault in your gearbox.
> >
> > I remember you said that the noise gets louder when you accelerate and

if
> > you let the gas pedal it stops even though the car still moves. Am I
> > right?
> >
> > Take care
> > Pantelis
> >
> >

>
>



 
Nope, its definitely not that, pads were just replaced by me and no change
in the sound. It definitely appears to be either the transmission or
transfer case. Only makes noise under braking when I have the truck in
drive, not neutral. More and more it makes me think everyone is right and
that there is a bad bearing in there at a bare minimum, which of course
means a rebuild is required.


"Pantelis Giamarellos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Scot I do not remember you saying anything about getting the whining noise
> when you are braking hard.
>
> Have you checked your brakes system? Any chance of having stone chips
> between the pads and rotors?
>
> Take care
> Pantelis
>
> "Scot" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:fbOtd.644$GH.641@lakeread02...
>> Yes. Only with power or under hard braking, auto transmission. Fluid on
>> both transfer case and transmission are at proper levels.
>>
>>
>> "Pantelis Giamarellos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> >
>> > "Scot" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> > news:XfGtd.358$GH.254@lakeread02...
>> >>..........> So now the question is if the noise is constant and does
>> >>not
>> > change with the
>> >> gears, is the tcase the only remaining possibility? I guess it could
>> >> be
>> > the
>> >> transmission, but I would think that would change with the rpm and not
>> >> the
>> >> wheel speed.
>> >
>> >
>> > Scot Hi,
>> >
>> > AFAIK if the noise is related to the transmission it must change WITH

> the
>> > WHEEL SPEED and not the engine's rpm.
>> > Unless you have a fault in your gearbox.
>> >
>> > I remember you said that the noise gets louder when you accelerate and

> if
>> > you let the gas pedal it stops even though the car still moves. Am I
>> > right?
>> >
>> > Take care
>> > Pantelis
>> >
>> >

>>
>>

>
>



 
Wish we could hear more about what the outcome was? Pity the discussion just stopped short in 2004.
My D1 1996 auto TDI has always had a whine when travelling at about 100km/hr and above. If accelerating no noise, if decelerating or neutral power I get noise. I hate it but what can you do ? Pay a lot of money in the hope it can be fixed ? Its been doing it since new. Its not got any worse after ~300,000km, other than the back-lash wear to the whole drive train.
I was told by the dealer its normal for these vehicles.
 
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