Transfer case whine - 96 Auto Disco I

I believe I have a classic case of transmission whine. No sound at idle,
nothing more than I would expect on a D-R clunk, no driveline lash, but when
under power and driving a whining sound can be heard from the transmission
tunnel/passenger area. The whining is directly related to vehicle speed and
not how hard I press the throttle or rpm. Whine is elimintated when the
throttle is fully lifted.

It increases in volume 30-50mph then is steady to about 60 where it drops
off again. Unfortunately it can be quite loud, and is right at a grating
frequency for me.

Tcase has Mobile 1 75w90 gear oil in filled to the proper level.

I was considering trying 75w140 to see if that improved it, but want
confirmation it wont hurt anything first. I also will probably be ordering
the mainshaft oil feeder built by Steve Parker
http://www.steve-parker.co.uk/designed.htm some time in the near future, if
anyone knows a USA based dealer, please post who in a reply. I am sure
plenty of people want to know this.

One site suggested filling the tcase 1/2 quart above full to reduce the
whine. The only way I could think of doing this is to remove the pto cover
and somehow get more in that way. Possibly taking out the output shaft to
do it, but I haven't popped the pto shaft yet so I have no idea what it
looks behind there or if that is even a possibility.


If anyone has any other suggestions, please let me know.

Scot

Scot Kight wrote:
> I believe I have a classic case of transmission whine. No sound at idle,
> nothing more than I would expect on a D-R clunk, no driveline lash, but when
> under power and driving a whining sound can be heard from the transmission
> tunnel/passenger area. The whining is directly related to vehicle speed and
> not how hard I press the throttle or rpm. Whine is elimintated when the
> throttle is fully lifted.
>
> It increases in volume 30-50mph then is steady to about 60 where it drops
> off again. Unfortunately it can be quite loud, and is right at a grating
> frequency for me.

Check the transmission oil level - if it's low the pump will cavitate
and make a noise.


--
EMB

Transmission fluid is about 3/4 of the way up the dipstick between the two
holes when the disco is cold and idling in neutral, mobil 1 atf. I believe
this is the correct way to measure it.



"EMB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Scot Kight wrote:
>> I believe I have a classic case of transmission whine. No sound at idle,
>> nothing more than I would expect on a D-R clunk, no driveline lash, but
>> when under power and driving a whining sound can be heard from the
>> transmission tunnel/passenger area. The whining is directly related to
>> vehicle speed and not how hard I press the throttle or rpm. Whine is
>> elimintated when the throttle is fully lifted.
>>
>> It increases in volume 30-50mph then is steady to about 60 where it drops
>> off again. Unfortunately it can be quite loud, and is right at a grating
>> frequency for me.
>
> Check the transmission oil level - if it's low the pump will cavitate and
> make a noise.
>
>
> --
> EMB

Scot Hi,

The most probably reason for the whining noise must be the transfer box
itself.
I would suggest you install the Steve Parker oil feeder as soon as possible.
I have been using those oil feeders for quite some time now and in fact it
is one piece of kit that I wholeheartedly recommend to all fellow members of
the Land Rover Club of Greece.
Steve Parker does make mail orders so you can pay it with your credit card
and ask him to send it to you in the States. He will have absolutely no
problem to do so.

You do not say which model year or which model your vehicle is so I suggest
this must be a 1995 or later Discovery.
IF you vehicle is a Range Rover Classic made after 1989 then you do not have
an LT230 transfer box and Steve Parker's oil feeder has nothing to do with
it since it is a totally different assembly.
IF this is the case then the whining may be due to a damaged transmission
chain inside the transfer box (this type of transfer box is called a Borg
Warner, after is manufacturer) and it does not have gears in it in the sense
of rotating gears as in the LT230 which is used on Defender vehicles, all
Discovery vehicles and Range Rovers from 1970 up to 1989 model years.

IF, again, your vehicle is fitted with the Borg Warner transfer box and you
have no problem with the chain drive (which is not a common problem) may I
suggest you also check the front and rear (especially the rear)
differential?

Take care
Pantelis

"Scot Kight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:ZqUod.3929$SA.217@lakeread02...
> I believe I have a classic case of transmission whine. No sound at idle,
> nothing more than I would expect on a D-R clunk, no driveline lash, but
when
> under power and driving a whining sound can be heard from the transmission
> tunnel/passenger area. The whining is directly related to vehicle speed
and
> not how hard I press the throttle or rpm. Whine is elimintated when the
> throttle is fully lifted.
>
> It increases in volume 30-50mph then is steady to about 60 where it drops
> off again. Unfortunately it can be quite loud, and is right at a grating
> frequency for me.
>
> Tcase has Mobile 1 75w90 gear oil in filled to the proper level.
>
> I was considering trying 75w140 to see if that improved it, but want
> confirmation it wont hurt anything first. I also will probably be
ordering
> the mainshaft oil feeder built by Steve Parker
> http://www.steve-parker.co.uk/designed.htm some time in the near future,
if
> anyone knows a USA based dealer, please post who in a reply. I am sure
> plenty of people want to know this.
>
> One site suggested filling the tcase 1/2 quart above full to reduce the
> whine. The only way I could think of doing this is to remove the pto
cover
> and somehow get more in that way. Possibly taking out the output shaft to
> do it, but I haven't popped the pto shaft yet so I have no idea what it
> looks behind there or if that is even a possibility.
>
>
> If anyone has any other suggestions, please let me know.
>
> Scot
>
>

On or around Wed, 24 Nov 2004 00:32:17 -0500, "Scot Kight" <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

>Transmission fluid is about 3/4 of the way up the dipstick between the two
>holes when the disco is cold and idling in neutral, mobil 1 atf. I believe
>this is the correct way to measure it.
>
>
technically, you should select[1] D, 3, 2, 1, 2, 3, D, N - pausing for about
2sec in each, before checking it. No idea how much difference this makes,
but it's not a lot.

But my '91 disco has a classic whiny T-box. Later ones have the LT230Q
transfer box, the Q is for "quiet" and has different gear tooth profiles. I
guess yours isn't later enough. However, fitting such a box would be an
expensive way to cure a whine, unless the box is also worn out. The Steve
Parker kit is said by some to reduce noise, so may be worth a go. I'd order
it direct if I were you - dealers on that side of the pond seem to delight
in charging a fortune for cheap stuff - the kit is probably about 50 bucks
plus shipping, by the time you convert the prices to $. Shipping can be
very cheap if you get it sent by ordinary post, or probably around another
$50 for something like UPS "expedited" which takes 3-4 days and is
trackable. 's fun watching where it goes, mind. I've a parcel en route
here ATM which has been to 3 different places in Florida and then to
Pennsylvania I think it was and was last seen arriving in Derby, England.

[1] good idea to have the brakes on.

It is a 96 automatic disco.

Just looking for a cheaper/faster way than doing it through international
mail order. Waiting a day or two is much easier than waiting a week or two!

Scot

"Pantelis Giamarellos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Scot Hi,
>
> The most probably reason for the whining noise must be the transfer box
> itself.
> I would suggest you install the Steve Parker oil feeder as soon as
> possible.
> I have been using those oil feeders for quite some time now and in fact it
> is one piece of kit that I wholeheartedly recommend to all fellow members
> of
> the Land Rover Club of Greece.
> Steve Parker does make mail orders so you can pay it with your credit card
> and ask him to send it to you in the States. He will have absolutely no
> problem to do so.
>
> You do not say which model year or which model your vehicle is so I
> suggest
> this must be a 1995 or later Discovery.
> IF you vehicle is a Range Rover Classic made after 1989 then you do not
> have
> an LT230 transfer box and Steve Parker's oil feeder has nothing to do with
> it since it is a totally different assembly.
> IF this is the case then the whining may be due to a damaged transmission
> chain inside the transfer box (this type of transfer box is called a Borg
> Warner, after is manufacturer) and it does not have gears in it in the
> sense
> of rotating gears as in the LT230 which is used on Defender vehicles, all
> Discovery vehicles and Range Rovers from 1970 up to 1989 model years.
>
> IF, again, your vehicle is fitted with the Borg Warner transfer box and
> you
> have no problem with the chain drive (which is not a common problem) may I
> suggest you also check the front and rear (especially the rear)
> differential?
>
> Take care
> Pantelis
>
> "Scot Kight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:ZqUod.3929$SA.217@lakeread02...
>> I believe I have a classic case of transmission whine. No sound at idle,
>> nothing more than I would expect on a D-R clunk, no driveline lash, but
> when
>> under power and driving a whining sound can be heard from the
>> transmission
>> tunnel/passenger area. The whining is directly related to vehicle speed
> and
>> not how hard I press the throttle or rpm. Whine is elimintated when the
>> throttle is fully lifted.
>>
>> It increases in volume 30-50mph then is steady to about 60 where it drops
>> off again. Unfortunately it can be quite loud, and is right at a grating
>> frequency for me.
>>
>> Tcase has Mobile 1 75w90 gear oil in filled to the proper level.
>>
>> I was considering trying 75w140 to see if that improved it, but want
>> confirmation it wont hurt anything first. I also will probably be
> ordering
>> the mainshaft oil feeder built by Steve Parker
>> http://www.steve-parker.co.uk/designed.htm some time in the near future,
> if
>> anyone knows a USA based dealer, please post who in a reply. I am sure
>> plenty of people want to know this.
>>
>> One site suggested filling the tcase 1/2 quart above full to reduce the
>> whine. The only way I could think of doing this is to remove the pto
> cover
>> and somehow get more in that way. Possibly taking out the output shaft
>> to
>> do it, but I haven't popped the pto shaft yet so I have no idea what it
>> looks behind there or if that is even a possibility.
>>
>>
>> If anyone has any other suggestions, please let me know.
>>
>> Scot
>>
>>
>
>

A 96 Auto should have a cross drilled shaft. It's a doddle in an auto anyway
.... but be aware ;-)

--
Neil

Mine was manufacturerd 07/95. I believe somewhere towards the end of the 96
model year is when they switched, so I doubt mine has the crossdrilled
shaft. Is it as simple as pulling the pto cover off and pulling the gear
out (with my hands) to check? Or is the drilled shaft in question something
that I cannot pull out?

There are tons of messages saying its fairly easy, but I havent touched a
transmission before. Done just about everything else though, from turbos to
suspension so I am not inept, just don't like to break things! Add to this
that every webpage or forum post I have seen uses different terminology, it
makes it quite difficult to figure out what people are talking about.

BTW the secure order form is broken on the steve parker site, and I sent
them email yesterday, but no response as of yet.

"Neil Brownlee" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>A 96 Auto should have a cross drilled shaft. It's a doddle in an auto
>anyway
> ... but be aware ;-)
>
> --
> Neil
>
>

ARGH!


Hi,
Sorry we don't export to the US due to insurance problems, maybe if you have
a friend or relative somewhere other than the US we could post it to them &
they in turn post it onto you.
Regards

Karl


This is the response to my message sent to steve parker.



"Scot" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:sa2pd.3941$SA.941@lakeread02...
> Mine was manufacturerd 07/95. I believe somewhere towards the end of the
> 96 model year is when they switched, so I doubt mine has the crossdrilled
> shaft. Is it as simple as pulling the pto cover off and pulling the gear
> out (with my hands) to check? Or is the drilled shaft in question
> something that I cannot pull out?
>
> There are tons of messages saying its fairly easy, but I havent touched a
> transmission before. Done just about everything else though, from turbos
> to suspension so I am not inept, just don't like to break things! Add to
> this that every webpage or forum post I have seen uses different
> terminology, it makes it quite difficult to figure out what people are
> talking about.
>
> BTW the secure order form is broken on the steve parker site, and I sent
> them email yesterday, but no response as of yet.
>
> "Neil Brownlee" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>A 96 Auto should have a cross drilled shaft. It's a doddle in an auto
>>anyway
>> ... but be aware ;-)
>>
>> --
>> Neil
>>
>>
>
>

Fluid level is fine even after this procedure. See my other message about
steve parker not being able to ship the oil feeder to the usa.

Scot

"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On or around Wed, 24 Nov 2004 00:32:17 -0500, "Scot Kight" <[email protected]>
> enlightened us thusly:
>
>>Transmission fluid is about 3/4 of the way up the dipstick between the two
>>holes when the disco is cold and idling in neutral, mobil 1 atf. I
>>believe
>>this is the correct way to measure it.
>>
>>
> technically, you should select[1] D, 3, 2, 1, 2, 3, D, N - pausing for
> about
> 2sec in each, before checking it. No idea how much difference this makes,
> but it's not a lot.
>
> But my '91 disco has a classic whiny T-box. Later ones have the LT230Q
> transfer box, the Q is for "quiet" and has different gear tooth profiles.
> I
> guess yours isn't later enough. However, fitting such a box would be an
> expensive way to cure a whine, unless the box is also worn out. The Steve
> Parker kit is said by some to reduce noise, so may be worth a go. I'd
> order
> it direct if I were you - dealers on that side of the pond seem to delight
> in charging a fortune for cheap stuff - the kit is probably about 50 bucks
> plus shipping, by the time you convert the prices to $. Shipping can be
> very cheap if you get it sent by ordinary post, or probably around another
> $50 for something like UPS "expedited" which takes 3-4 days and is
> trackable. 's fun watching where it goes, mind. I've a parcel en route
> here ATM which has been to 3 different places in Florida and then to
> Pennsylvania I think it was and was last seen arriving in Derby, England.
>
> [1] good idea to have the brakes on.

On or around Wed, 24 Nov 2004 13:56:27 +0000 (UTC), "Neil Brownlee"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>A 96 Auto should have a cross drilled shaft. It's a doddle in an auto anyway
>... but be aware ;-)

's the gear that's cross-drilled, AIUI, but on an auto it's not supposed to
be an issue - different output shaft.

speaking of which...

If I get another gearbox with a decent output shaft, is it suitably easy to
fit the cross-drilled gear to the existing T-box? Or do I simply get one of
Steve Parker's oil gadgets?

On or around Wed, 24 Nov 2004 11:54:52 -0500, "Scot" <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

>Fluid level is fine even after this procedure. See my other message about
>steve parker not being able to ship the oil feeder to the usa.
>

I'm sure someone can get one and put it in the post for you.

I've been thinking about it meself, but from the noises it makes mine is
beyond that as a remedy. When I get hold of another gearbox I'll be fitting
one.

I expect someone in the group lives within fetching distance of Steve Parker
and could pick one up, at that.

Scot Hi,

after pressing the send button I realised the type and age of the vehicle
were CLEARLY quoted on the subject line. I guess I was too sleepy to notice
it there (or do I grow too old????)

Steve sends the mail orders at cost so I do not think it will be expensive.
In any case the oil feeder's weight and dimensions are very small so do not
worry about high shipping costs.

Take care
Pantelis

"Scot Kight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Av%od.3935$SA.58@lakeread02...
> It is a 96 automatic disco.
>
> Just looking for a cheaper/faster way than doing it through international
> mail order. Waiting a day or two is much easier than waiting a week or
two!
>
> Scot
>
> "Pantelis Giamarellos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Scot Hi,
> >
> > The most probably reason for the whining noise must be the transfer box
> > itself.
> > I would suggest you install the Steve Parker oil feeder as soon as
> > possible.
> > I have been using those oil feeders for quite some time now and in fact
it
> > is one piece of kit that I wholeheartedly recommend to all fellow
members
> > of
> > the Land Rover Club of Greece.
> > Steve Parker does make mail orders so you can pay it with your credit
card
> > and ask him to send it to you in the States. He will have absolutely no
> > problem to do so.
> >
> > You do not say which model year or which model your vehicle is so I
> > suggest
> > this must be a 1995 or later Discovery.
> > IF you vehicle is a Range Rover Classic made after 1989 then you do not
> > have
> > an LT230 transfer box and Steve Parker's oil feeder has nothing to do
with
> > it since it is a totally different assembly.
> > IF this is the case then the whining may be due to a damaged
transmission
> > chain inside the transfer box (this type of transfer box is called a
Borg
> > Warner, after is manufacturer) and it does not have gears in it in the
> > sense
> > of rotating gears as in the LT230 which is used on Defender vehicles,
all
> > Discovery vehicles and Range Rovers from 1970 up to 1989 model years.
> >
> > IF, again, your vehicle is fitted with the Borg Warner transfer box and
> > you
> > have no problem with the chain drive (which is not a common problem) may
I
> > suggest you also check the front and rear (especially the rear)
> > differential?
> >
> > Take care
> > Pantelis
> >
> > "Scot Kight" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:ZqUod.3929$SA.217@lakeread02...
> >> I believe I have a classic case of transmission whine. No sound at
idle,
> >> nothing more than I would expect on a D-R clunk, no driveline lash, but
> > when
> >> under power and driving a whining sound can be heard from the
> >> transmission
> >> tunnel/passenger area. The whining is directly related to vehicle speed
> > and
> >> not how hard I press the throttle or rpm. Whine is elimintated when
the
> >> throttle is fully lifted.
> >>
> >> It increases in volume 30-50mph then is steady to about 60 where it
drops
> >> off again. Unfortunately it can be quite loud, and is right at a
grating
> >> frequency for me.
> >>
> >> Tcase has Mobile 1 75w90 gear oil in filled to the proper level.
> >>
> >> I was considering trying 75w140 to see if that improved it, but want
> >> confirmation it wont hurt anything first. I also will probably be
> > ordering
> >> the mainshaft oil feeder built by Steve Parker
> >> http://www.steve-parker.co.uk/designed.htm some time in the near
future,
> > if
> >> anyone knows a USA based dealer, please post who in a reply. I am sure
> >> plenty of people want to know this.
> >>
> >> One site suggested filling the tcase 1/2 quart above full to reduce the
> >> whine. The only way I could think of doing this is to remove the pto
> > cover
> >> and somehow get more in that way. Possibly taking out the output shaft
> >> to
> >> do it, but I haven't popped the pto shaft yet so I have no idea what it
> >> looks behind there or if that is even a possibility.
> >>
> >>
> >> If anyone has any other suggestions, please let me know.
> >>
> >> Scot
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>

Scot Hi,

It is EXTREMELY easy to fit.
You just undo the bolts holding the PTO cover in place, remove the cover,
check for play (the fitting instructions are VERY precise), remove the gear,
clean it, put it back, put the oil feeder plate and its two flanges and then
put the PTO cover back and do the bolts.

Take care
Pantelis

"Scot" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:sa2pd.3941$SA.941@lakeread02...
> Mine was manufacturerd 07/95. I believe somewhere towards the end of the
96
> model year is when they switched, so I doubt mine has the crossdrilled
> shaft. Is it as simple as pulling the pto cover off and pulling the gear
> out (with my hands) to check? Or is the drilled shaft in question
something
> that I cannot pull out?
>
> There are tons of messages saying its fairly easy, but I havent touched a
> transmission before. Done just about everything else though, from turbos
to
> suspension so I am not inept, just don't like to break things! Add to
this
> that every webpage or forum post I have seen uses different terminology,
it
> makes it quite difficult to figure out what people are talking about.
>
> BTW the secure order form is broken on the steve parker site, and I sent
> them email yesterday, but no response as of yet.
>
> "Neil Brownlee" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >A 96 Auto should have a cross drilled shaft. It's a doddle in an auto
> >anyway
> > ... but be aware ;-)
> >
> > --
> > Neil
> >
> >
>
>

Austin Hi,

I would say that as long as the ratio of your Tbox is the same you will not
have a problem to fit the cross drilled gear.
Ashcrofts are selling it (the Xdrilled gear) and they have very precise
fitting instructions on their site (under the LT230 transfer box pages)

Even if you install the xdrilled gear I would suggest you also use the Steve
Parker oil feeder.
The main system of lubrication inside the Tbox is by the "spray" of gear oil
created by the rotating gears and therefore the crossdrilled gear is simply
lubricated by the "spray" finding its way through the holes of the gear.
What the Steve Parker oil feeder does though is to convert the "spray" into
drops or better still an almost constant flow of dripping oil on the gear
and shaft so I believe this is a far more effective way to keep things
properly lubricated. The xdrilled gear is of course much better than the
solid one but the oil feeder plate is a very good thing to add. And pretty
cheap for the piece of mind it gives you.

Take care
Pantelis

"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On or around Wed, 24 Nov 2004 13:56:27 +0000 (UTC), "Neil Brownlee"
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
> >A 96 Auto should have a cross drilled shaft. It's a doddle in an auto
anyway
> >... but be aware ;-)
>
> 's the gear that's cross-drilled, AIUI, but on an auto it's not supposed
to
> be an issue - different output shaft.
>
> speaking of which...
>
> If I get another gearbox with a decent output shaft, is it suitably easy
to
> fit the cross-drilled gear to the existing T-box? Or do I simply get one
of
> Steve Parker's oil gadgets?
>

If this is a problem you can ask him to send it to me in Greece and I will
send it to you in the States.
I am based in Greece so this is a bit away from Steve Parker's backyard but
if you wish I can offer my assistance.

Take care
Pantelis Giamarellos
LAND ROVER CLUB OF GREECE


"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On or around Wed, 24 Nov 2004 11:54:52 -0500, "Scot" <[email protected]>
> enlightened us thusly:
>
> >Fluid level is fine even after this procedure. See my other message
about
> >steve parker not being able to ship the oil feeder to the usa.
> >
>
> I'm sure someone can get one and put it in the post for you.
>
> I've been thinking about it meself, but from the noises it makes mine is
> beyond that as a remedy. When I get hold of another gearbox I'll be
fitting
> one.
>
> I expect someone in the group lives within fetching distance of Steve
Parker
> and could pick one up, at that.
>

On or around Wed, 24 Nov 2004 21:28:47 +0200, "Pantelis Giamarellos"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Austin Hi,
>
>
>Even if you install the xdrilled gear I would suggest you also use the Steve
>Parker oil feeder.
>The main system of lubrication inside the Tbox is by the "spray" of gear oil
>created by the rotating gears and therefore the crossdrilled gear is simply
>lubricated by the "spray" finding its way through the holes of the gear.
>What the Steve Parker oil feeder does though is to convert the "spray" into
>drops or better still an almost constant flow of dripping oil on the gear
>and shaft so I believe this is a far more effective way to keep things
>properly lubricated. The xdrilled gear is of course much better than the
>solid one but the oil feeder plate is a very good thing to add. And pretty
>cheap for the piece of mind it gives you.

Cheaper not to install the gear at all; but I don't know until I look how
worn the gear, as opposed to the shaft, is. I do know there's a lot of
clack-clunk when changing gear...

Been told of a good LT77 with no T-box, which I hope to buy. This is one
where the T-box intermediate shaft managed to get loose and misaligned,
resulting in much destruction inside. but apparently the main box and its
output shaft are OK.

Just got to get the bloke to give me a price.

Hope you get it for as cheaply as possible.

Take care
Pantelis

"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On or around Wed, 24 Nov 2004 21:28:47 +0200, "Pantelis Giamarellos"
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
> >Austin Hi,
> >
> >
> >Even if you install the xdrilled gear I would suggest you also use the
Steve
> >Parker oil feeder.
> >The main system of lubrication inside the Tbox is by the "spray" of gear
oil
> >created by the rotating gears and therefore the crossdrilled gear is
simply
> >lubricated by the "spray" finding its way through the holes of the gear.
> >What the Steve Parker oil feeder does though is to convert the "spray"
into
> >drops or better still an almost constant flow of dripping oil on the gear
> >and shaft so I believe this is a far more effective way to keep things
> >properly lubricated. The xdrilled gear is of course much better than the
> >solid one but the oil feeder plate is a very good thing to add. And
pretty
> >cheap for the piece of mind it gives you.
>
> Cheaper not to install the gear at all; but I don't know until I look how
> worn the gear, as opposed to the shaft, is. I do know there's a lot of
> clack-clunk when changing gear...
>
> Been told of a good LT77 with no T-box, which I hope to buy. This is one
> where the T-box intermediate shaft managed to get loose and misaligned,
> resulting in much destruction inside. but apparently the main box and its
> output shaft are OK.
>
> Just got to get the bloke to give me a price.

I went to steve parker and bought an oil feeder and fitted it.
It's a piece of metal on a plate that that feeds oil into the end of the
main shaft, very good idea.

I can't see it stopping any whine, the what i'd call "normal whine" in my
old 90 xfer box is the same as before.
It seems to be to stop main shaft/gear wear from starting or getting worse.

If this is the case, then how do I remove the whine? Is a rebuild required?



I received a response from BritParts inquiring about a mainshaft oil
feeder---

Generally the t-cases do not whine: that's usually a function of misset or
mismatched gears. Since they normally clunk, I'm guessing yours is set up
'too tight'. There really is no way to change that without removing the
gearbox: even different lubricants won't change it much.

British Pacific Ltd.



"George Spigot" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I went to steve parker and bought an oil feeder and fitted it.
> It's a piece of metal on a plate that that feeds oil into the end of the
> main shaft, very good idea.
>
> I can't see it stopping any whine, the what i'd call "normal whine" in my
> old 90 xfer box is the same as before.
> It seems to be to stop main shaft/gear wear from starting or getting
> worse.
>
>