Transfer box????

mark1971 · Jul 8, 2012

Hi chaps
1998 p38 dse auto
do i have a knackered transfer box? gearbox or diff?
symptoms are - whining noise when driving but is loader when i let of throttle and also on full lock you can feel the car jolting so to speak. gearchanges are smooth and clunk free. its just the noise and jolting on lock.
only recently purchased this for the rite money and doing a lot of silly jobs but this is the main 1.. car is for towing our tourer and we go away in 4 weeks so need to diagnose and repair asap
i aint got a clue about transmission so any advice/price would be greatfull
thanks in advance

nathan5346 · Jul 8, 2012

Sounds like diff whine?

mark1971 · Jul 8, 2012

nathan5346 said:
Sounds like diff whine?

it sounds like a bad bearing noise if that helps at all nathan?

nathan5346 · Jul 8, 2012

Jack it up and check movement top/bottom on wheels

mark1971 · Jul 8, 2012

nathan5346 said:
Jack it up and check movement top/bottom on wheels

edit
jacked up
no play in wheels
with auto box in neutral and handbrake off and 3 wheels on floor " i can't turn " the front o/s wheel at all!!
from what i can gather from reading other posts it sounds like the transfer box?
could someone confirm please?
regards

jamesmartin · Jul 8, 2012

it will spin with 2 front wheels jacked up wont if everythings okay with one ,try for play in front diff flange it shouldnt have any endfloat ,does sound like front diff ,with one wheel up wheel should turn with a 3ft bar and socket on wheel nut slowly stiffly ,if its locked viscous coupling mounted in housing on front of t/box behind front prop flange is seized and needs replacing

mark1971 · Jul 8, 2012

jamesmartin said:
it will spin with 2 front wheels jacked up wont if everythings okay with one ,try for play in front diff flange it shouldnt have any endfloat ,does sound like front diff ,with one wheel up wheel should turn with a 3ft bar and socket on wheel nut slowly stiffly ,if its locked viscous coupling mounted in housing on front of t/box behind front prop flange is seized and needs replacing

jacked o/s wheel back up and with a bar and socket on wheel nut could not turn with a fair bit of pressure... so would you just replace the transfer box for a good secondhand unit or is it best to get the part replaced?
what is best way to check for diff play? do i jack it back up and in neutral again?
thanks for the time to reply

jamesmartin · Jul 8, 2012

try with one front wheel jacked up ,v/c can be changed if seized with box in situ ,try diff flange should have no in/out ,up/down movement at all and should turn smoothly with at least one wheel up

mark1971 · Jul 8, 2012

jamesmartin said:
try with one front wheel jacked up ,v/c can be changed if seized with box in situ ,try diff flange should have no in/out ,up/down movement at all and should turn smoothly with at least one wheel up

jacked front o/s wheel up again and gave it a bit more effort!
it will actually turn very slowly and with some force!
as for front diff there is a very very tiny amount of play in flange when i ty and turn the prop which will turn an inch 1 way or the other by hand and thats it! thats with o/s wheel jacked up in neutral and handbrake off?? what does this say to you james?
regards

jamesmartin · Jul 8, 2012

rotational play is okay its play in bearings as up/down your looking for ,v/c isnt seized but may be stiffer ,check every month or so they all seize eventually whiuch puts pressure on drive train,could be any part but generally front diff first,you can remove front prop to test it for a short run up the road

mark1971 · Jul 8, 2012

jamesmartin said:
rotational play is okay its play in bearings as up/down your looking for ,v/c isnt seized but may be stiffer ,check every month or so they all seize eventually whiuch puts pressure on drive train,could be any part but generally front diff first,you can remove front prop to test it for a short run up the road

Thanks very much for your time/advice

Transfer box????

mark1971

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mark1971

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mark1971

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