transfer box neutral stuck in high

Whilst I appreciate that there are a number of transfer box postings, none seem to match mine. Hence the posting.

I have a 2003 RR L322.

I accidentally knocked the high low gear button the other day and I keep getting the annoying bleep and the message which says "transfer box neutral". It does drive, but only in high? gears, jerking around and creaking when I brake. Clearly not normal gear ratios, and the mountain on the dash flashes orange. Cant get it to do anything else.

Everything that I have tried to get it back to normal road driving fails. I've pressed the button, its been in neutral, park, drive, but the button doesn't work. There's no fuse in slot 37.

This has once happened before but it eventually reverted back to normal gears after a bit of button pushing etc.

Any ideas what it could be? or what it is likely to be, as the garage are baffled.
Cheers for any help!

may as well add that whilst I was pressing buttons and trying to revert to normal gears, the gear shifter also got totally stuck in neutral. It was locked and then said apply handbrake.

My 11 year old suggested turning off the engine, which I did and the gear then slipped into park, drive etc....so this action all works fine, but with orange mountains flashing whilst stuck in high gears.

Could be that the high range is only half selected. Don't know the set up on the 322 but I would be having a look at the selector motor. If you don't use them every so often they get stiff ( waiting for the filthy replies). Not wise to drive it in that condition (God done it again, I know it gets trapped in the steering wheel).

Only got as far as driving down the drive, and reversing back before being recovered as a safety measure. I don't think I have ever need to use the high and low gears or even down hill decent button.

If you don't use the transfer box too often, the motor does jam up due to lack of use...could be yours has done just that.

Also on the back of the transfer motor is a switch pack, this has been known to fail....unfortunately they are not available separately and the whole motor is a pretty penny for a new one.

Diagnostics is first call.

+1 to saints post

Deffo sounds like a jammed low range shift motor

You can remove the 4 bolts that hold the motor on the casing and manually turn the shaft by hand to revert the car back into high range mode

2.0_hippo said:

+1 to saints post

Deffo sounds like a jammed low range shift motor

You can remove the 4 bolts that hold the motor on the casing and manually turn the shaft by hand to revert the car back into high range mode

Click to expand...

Guess I wasted my time

tomcat59alan said:

Guess I wasted my time

Click to expand...

your a dirty P38 owner

2.0_hippo said:

your a dirty P38 owner

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And you have a rusty shed.

tomcat59alan said:

And you have a rusty shed.

Click to expand...

2.0_hippo said:

+1 to saints post

You can remove the 4 bolts that hold the motor on the casing and manually turn the shaft by hand to revert the car back into high range mode

Click to expand...

I think you have to be careful about moving the shaft with the motor removed, there is something in rave about it. I removed and stripped my TB down recently and that was the most worrying bit to get right. It's like a quick start thread that if you turn anti clockwise will come out rather than move anything.
You also need to calibrate it when you put it back in.

Thanks to all, and 2.0 Hippo

It was just as he said, jammed shift motor and I'm picking the car up in an hour to hear full report. Doesn't sound like I needed any parts either. Will come back

Yep, no parts, just two hours labour to check power supply, fuses, etc, motor taken off and reassembled, and all ok.

Phew, no motor required.

Not bad for a dirty p38 owner eh Hippo.