Transfer Box Flange Front and Rear Should They Turn Easily?

Hi all, just a quick one please, i have just put new Flange kits on front and back of my 85 110 LT77 230 and have noted that after tightening the Nuts up (New seals ,felt washer and 1 new Original Metal washer that was missing) I can't spin the flange by hand, it goes around if i put the ratchet on it in neutral but feels tight , but it won't by hand, which it does if the nuts are loose, props aren't on yet ,so i just would love to know what normal is (it came with front flange missing)
Your time as ever is appreciated

According to my book of worms, the front and rear output flanges should be torqed to 105 lb/ft.(140Nm)
It sounds as though you've over-tightened.

Oldseadog said:

According to my book of worms, the front and rear output flanges should be torqed to 105 lb/ft.(140Nm)
It sounds as though you've over-tightened.

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Yeah i did (just for once!) actually use a torque wrench and do it properly, the front one will turn more easily than the rear that you can't spin with your hand, if a turn it with the wrench on the nut both turn but stiffly...my problem is what should it turn like? loosely ? easily?

you cant over tighten the nuts,it might be mud shield pressing on the seal

Thanks for that @jamesmartin, I hadn't thought of that possibility!

jamesmartin said:

you cant over tighten the nuts,it might be mud shield pressing on the seal

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So the ring that pushes with some persuasive hammering onto the transfer box over the seal I noted that was a pig to get off and not much easier to put back but tightened up with the nut. I'll have a look many thanks

jamesmartin said:

you cant over tighten the nuts,it might be mud shield pressing on the seal

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Thank you thats brilliant..exactly what was happening the flange was hitting the inner edge of the mudshield ,i have just pushed the inner rim of the mudshield in slightly with a rounding hammer and its all snug and turning well. Many thanks again