Towing with reciever hitch

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warrior

Well-Known Member
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Leeds
I have a mib receiver hitch, or that's what I bought it as,
I also have a rear winch,

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My question is what sort of weight is it ok to to with it? I email mib but when I asked what was it max weight I got a message back saying what did I wasn't to tow, I replied my caravan 1250kg git one back saying it would be ok,


Was asked to move a trailer with a car on the other day but my transit van on paper carnt tow naff all really 1000kg if my vans prity much empty,

But I dint want to put all that weight on the reciver hitch and drop plate,

Does anyone know or use 1 them selves, my mates going to drop me a td5 towbar that I think may fit with my winch, but would rather not have a plow on the rear if I can help it
 
Towing equipment for cars since 1997 has to be type approved to be road legal. This restriction does not apply to commercial vehicles. So what age and tax class is your vehicle? Most if not all 2" receivers are not type approved and most good manufacturers will not sell them as towing equipment.

It looks like that receiver has had the mounting plate cut down as you can see paint marks and the top 4 holes. Good quality 2" receivers use all 6 holes in the rear cross member a square tube under the rear cross member plus bracing to the main chassis. Drop plates are then provided for attachment of various equipment.



We do have a 2" receiver fixed to all 6 holes and braced and we tow the maximum weight 3,500 kg permitted with it.


Brendan
 
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I use a 2" receiver for occasional towing. I like the arrangement, but as said above its illegal on newer landies.

it should look like this.

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Mines a 94 300 tdi hard top,

Thats how the came it's not been cut down, it's is on the original tow bar mounting points, and the td5 tow bar my mates got for me uses all the same bolt holes and no more.
 
It's more a leverage principal I was thinking or worried about

I have d shape hitch that has had lots of use with a kinetic rope of pay and plays and it's had some hard recoverys and not moved at All,

I was thinking that with the drop plate facing down its got more leavers hero try pivot the hitch and push down on the mounts not pull back like they normally do.
 
For anyone interested, don't tow anything to heavy,

My caravan 1250kg was ok,
Dad's mini digger and trailer 2.5t was ok,
My challenge truck on ifor trailer, never again,

 
There's one for the black museum, and something to tell your kids about. Interestingly, it's not the 2" tubular receiver that's the problem, it's the drop plate that seems to be made of something soft and bendy.
 
Yes, I wonder what that bolt is doing at the top? The main ones holding it to the crossmember seem OK as it's all pretty flush with the crossmember - you can just see the winch fairlead surround in the top of the picture.
 
There's one for the black museum, and something to tell your kids about. Interestingly, it's not the 2" tubular receiver that's the problem, it's the drop plate that seems to be made of something soft and bendy.
Yeah I was thinking about making a new one out of thicker steel plate with brasses of dome Sort


and a rear crossmember of swiss cheese and the bolts ahve pulled out or have the bolts just loosened off

They are tight there's a thin spacer between the crossmember as it just dint fit quite right,

The winch tray is welded to the chassis and crossmember aswell,
 
The proper engineered receiver hitch as used in Australia /USA will handle the max tow capacity of a land rover with ease. I had one on my 130HCPU and that was used at max load(+ a bit sometimes) on some awful roads without a problem the tongue on it was about 5/8" thick IIRC The big plus point was being removable it didnt compromise your departure angle . It used four of the rear cross member bolt holes .
 
Think mines about 6mm with a bar on the back that finishes just above the towbar, might make a new one out of 10mm plate
 
Yes, maybe 6mm is a bit optimistic. 10mm might be better but if you've got 12mm/1/2" that would be better still. If you can wind your welder up high enough. You'll be making the house lights flicker.
 
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