Towing a boat behind a Range Rover

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G

Goboatingnow

Guest
I thinking of buy a sport cruiser that I can trailer behind my Range
rover. The all up weight of the boat + trailer will be close to the
3500Kg limit. Has anyone experience of towing such weights behind a
Rangie , Any lauching tips. I dont fancy seperating the trailer from
the
RR''s hitch to launch it with a rope like some suggest

 
Goboatingnow wrote:

|| Any lauching tips. I dont fancy seperating the trailer from
|| the
|| RR''s hitch to launch it with a rope like some suggest

That's a well-known and widely-accepted way to do it. Reverse the boat down
to the water, detatch the boat, drive back up the slope, rig the rope and
reverse (well clear of the water) to lower the boat into the sea/lake. Same
to recover. It's hard to think of an easier way.

What's stopping you doing that?

--
Rich
==============================

I don't approve of signatures, so I don't have one.


 

"Goboatingnow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I thinking of buy a sport cruiser that I can trailer behind my Range
> rover. The all up weight of the boat + trailer will be close to the
> 3500Kg limit. Has anyone experience of towing such weights behind a
> Rangie , Any lauching tips. I dont fancy seperating the trailer from
> the
> RR''s hitch to launch it with a rope like some suggest
>


My old v8 RR worked well towing a 16 and half foot speedboat with all the
gear plus passengers.
You are right on the towing limit with that weight.
Make sure your trailer brakes are in good working order as they do tend to
seize up when left for the winter or being dunked in salt water all the
time.
Also check the bearings are in good nick.It will ruin your day if they fail
with the possibility of a bad accident.

As for launching,
It depends where the launch site is.
If its a fresh water lake then its very simple as most lakes launching areas
are not very steep.
Get out and have a good look at where your best reversing line would be.
Look out for any slippery or muddy patches to avoid,And especially kids
running around.
Get your boat ready,Take off trailer board,straps etc and make sure the bung
is in the transom.
Leave the ratchet strap on and tie a good bowline to the front eye.
Line your vehicle and trailer up for reversing and put the RR in low
range,Keep it straight as you are going towards the water and try to avoid
stamping on the brakes,Range Rovers have excellent engine braking.
It doesn't matter how much of the boat trailer goes in the water but stop
before the water reaches halfway up your rear wheels.Handbrake on and leave
in gear if its a manual.
By then your boat should be floating.Before undoing the ratchet start it up
and check all is ok.I always do this at home before going out.
When you are happy,Have someone hold onto the bowline and undo the ratchet
strap.Push the boat clear of the trailer and carefully pull the car away and
hey presto go and have fun.
I would never ever launch using just a rope wrapped around the towball,It's
just too risky,Although i still see people doing it.

You can though use a long rope to recover your boat if the launch site is a
long stretch of shingle with a steep drop off.

If you are launching on a tidal river,The first thing to look for is what is
stronger,The wind or the tide.
The wind could be blowing one way and the tide going the other which makes
launching a bit more difficult.
Look to see which way a flag or something is blowing,And then look which way
a moored boat is pointing.
A moored boat will be facing the oncoming tide.
Have someone who doesn't mind getting wet to stand at the side of the boat
to stop it curving back around once it is in the water.But be warned it
takes a lot of effort with a strong wind or tide.

Hope this helps you a little bit,
Its not hard but it can be dangerous,Before you go out have a look at how
others do it,Stand back and watch for a bit.
You will find that the majority of boat users will be more than happy to
give you a hand.

Roll on the warm weather.


 

Goboatingnow wrote:
> I thinking of buy a sport cruiser that I can trailer behind my Range
> rover. The all up weight of the boat + trailer will be close to the
> 3500Kg limit. Has anyone experience of towing such weights behind a
> Rangie , Any lauching tips. I dont fancy seperating the trailer from
> the
> RR''s hitch to launch it with a rope like some suggest


You're in luck, at last, something I speak about on this group about
with authority! As part of my job we launch / recover boats of all
shapes and sizes up to 5 or 6 times a day.

A big help will be having a decent roller trailer, bed trailers are ok
if you are keeping your boat in the water but otherwaise you can't beat
a good quality roller, if you are having one made for your boat then I
can put you in touch with someone who I believe makes the best trailers
bar none.

Your Range Rover will easily tow the above weight assuming that you
stay legal weight wise and the nose weight is ok. Before we bought our
Td5 90 for launching and recovery we used a Tdi range rover and
regularly towed a 25ft sportscruiser at around the weight you are
talking about, we can sell you one also if you want
(www.quadraboats.co.uk) !

I also have a Tdi RRC of my own and it happily, although slowly, tows
over 3 tonnes when taking my bobtail RR to events.

Like i mentioned before just make sure your nose wieght is ok,
otherwise you end up with the "tail wagging the dog!"

With regards to lauching and recovery, i treat it like off-roading, and
by that I mean get out and walk it first, I speak from bitter
experience. I've seen someone come piling down a slipway, try to brake
and jack-knife their rig on the seaweed on the slip.

>From experience you should not have your boat totally floating, there

should still be some weight on the trailer. The loose technique
(proven!) we use is to reverse near to the waters edge. Take the
trailerboard and rear strap off. Reverse into the water just enough so
the engine can cool and start her up(trim the engine or leg down). Once
you are happy that all is well engine wise, reverse further until you
are happy that the majority of the boat is floating. Remember that
these boats are designed to roll of these trailers not just float off.

It is no good deciding to go in "as far as the mudflaps" or "so far up
the wheel" this only works when you know your particlular set up and
how steep the slip is.

Once you're happy, take the front strap off and try to unwind the winch
strap, the boat will most likely try to roll back so get the skipper to
engage forward gear to hold it while you take the winch strap off.

Then it's just a case of a telling the skipper he is free to go, he
pops it back into neutral and she rolls off the trailer. Lovely. As
Rich B says, it really is easy.

Putting it on however takes a bit more skill. Because sportsboats have
planing hulls they are more affected by wind than displacement type
hulls so you need to have your wits about you. The wind will always try
to push the bow around and this is really tricky to control at slow
speed as is always multiplied when you are putting a boat on a trailer
because you have to trim the leg or engine up which means you lose
steerage to a certain extent.

The person with the trailer can help you by pointing the trailer
slightly into the wind.

The technique, if you can master it, is to point the boat into the wind
and then swing the front of the boat onto the trailer at the last
second (this is where your good roller trailer comes in handy). Also,
in windy conditions you really need to go for it, none of this
half-hearted butting up to the trailer while the winchman pays out 25ft
of cable to winch you in, you'll be off up the harbour before you know
it. If you try to put the anchor on the rear wiper blade of the RR
you're not far wrong!!!. Once you're on, you may need to hold her in
gear briefly while your winch man gets the hook onto your boats towing
eye. Easy!

Sometimes you need to remember though that things can get very tricky
very quickly. A while ago I had to take a boat out where a spring tide
was running in one direction and the eind was blowing in the other.
Interesting. Especially when it's 50 grand of someone elses money!

Give me a shout if you need any more advice,

Dave

 
A related question..

Why is it that everyone else can reverse their trailer down the slip in a
straight controlled line whilst if I attempt it it keeps attempting to go
off line and jack-knife? I keep having to pull forward to straighten up and
start again.

I must be doing something basic wrong and I'd love to know what it is!

Cheers,

M



 
On Mon, 29 May 2006 08:06:39 +0100, "McBad"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>A related question..
>
>Why is it that everyone else can reverse their trailer down the slip in a
>straight controlled line whilst if I attempt it it keeps attempting to go
>off line and jack-knife? I keep having to pull forward to straighten up and
>start again.
>
>I must be doing something basic wrong and I'd love to know what it is!


I would caution you to use low range and just do it very slowly. This
gives you time to correct things before you get to a jackknife
situation.

Some also suggest putting your hands on the bottom of the wheel as
this makes the steering more intuitive. If you are really battling
then just put a hitch on the bull bar and drive the thing down
forwards.

Regards
Stephen
>
>Cheers,
>
>M
>
>

 
On or around Fri, 26 May 2006 19:38:03 +0100, "Richard Brookman"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Goboatingnow wrote:
>
>|| Any lauching tips. I dont fancy seperating the trailer from
>|| the
>|| RR''s hitch to launch it with a rope like some suggest
>
>That's a well-known and widely-accepted way to do it. Reverse the boat down
>to the water, detatch the boat, drive back up the slope, rig the rope and
>reverse (well clear of the water) to lower the boat into the sea/lake. Same
>to recover. It's hard to think of an easier way.
>
>What's stopping you doing that?


and use a good, strong rope. I once had much amusement watching a bloke on
the Thames trying to get a smallish cabin cruiser out of the water using a
Bedford campervan with a knackered clutch. He couldn't pull it up the slope
so adopted a technique similar to the one you describe so that the van was
on the flat. Unfortunately, the rope was thin and not in the best
condition, so once the thing was out of the water and all the weight of the
trailer on it, the inevitable happened. The trailer, with boat, rolled back
down the slope and into the water. he had made the bow fast to the trailer,
mind, so at least the trailer didn't carry on rolling down in to the bottom
of the Thames.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"The breezy call of incense-breathing Morn, The swallow twittering
from the strawbuilt shed, The cock's shrill clarion, or the echoing
horn, No more shall rouse them from their lowly bed."
Thomas Gray, Elegy Written in a Country Churchyard.
 
McBad wrote:

|| A related question..
||
|| Why is it that everyone else can reverse their trailer down the slip
|| in a straight controlled line whilst if I attempt it it keeps
|| attempting to go off line and jack-knife? I keep having to pull
|| forward to straighten up and start again.
||
|| I must be doing something basic wrong and I'd love to know what it
|| is!
||
|| Cheers,
||
|| M

Get a view of the trailer in your door mirrors and apply correction the
instant it starts to move either way. Catch it quick and make small
movements - the main error is in over-correcting.

--
Rich
==============================

I don't approve of signatures, so I don't have one.


 
On or around Mon, 29 May 2006 10:25:48 +0200, fanie
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>On Mon, 29 May 2006 08:06:39 +0100, "McBad"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>A related question..
>>
>>Why is it that everyone else can reverse their trailer down the slip in a
>>straight controlled line whilst if I attempt it it keeps attempting to go
>>off line and jack-knife? I keep having to pull forward to straighten up and
>>start again.
>>
>>I must be doing something basic wrong and I'd love to know what it is!

>
>I would caution you to use low range and just do it very slowly. This
>gives you time to correct things before you get to a jackknife
>situation.
>
>Some also suggest putting your hands on the bottom of the wheel as
>this makes the steering more intuitive. If you are really battling
>then just put a hitch on the bull bar and drive the thing down
>forwards.


it's all down to practice. There was a series III based at Chas. Newens
marine in Putney, London, which had a toball moutned in the middel of the
front bumper. I've seen a bloke push a trailer down the road at about 20
mph with this setup. most impressive, and probably illegal.

but reversing is all down to practice.

One useful tip I can give you - using the rig you want to reverse, find an
empty car park or something and driver forwards at full lock, 'til you've
gone around more or less 360 degrees, then stop (still at full lock) and
look at the trailer. That angle the trailer ends up pointing is the "magic
angle" for that rig. If it gets further than that when reversing it's
impossible to correct except by going forwards.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"It is a characteristic of the human mind to hate the man one has injured"
Tacitus (c.55 - c.117) Agricola, 45
 
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