Tomcat Project

That bumper to panel might need some work for IVA.
Have you checked how they check exterior, with a xxxmm foam form. And a big cone.
That might need some more work.

But remeber once IVA passed,things could fall off opps did I say that

Door catches I believe need to 2 positions ajar/closed and some sort off burst resistance. Don’t quote me on that it’s been a while since I looked.

But keep it up you will get there

J

You have to modify/use series arms.
Use 3x 90 wiper boxes & motors
Look at the photo you won't get 7" lights in. Mine are behind the race number. You won't have room for side lights/indicators

@DaveP_Tomcat don’t worry you don’t need the brambles

@Hicap phill is just waiting for somebody to pull him out looks like he been waiting a while


J

Back together, but oddly the setup is a bit ''longer" then before. So I'll need about 10mm cutting out of the propshaft..... Luckily I'm not too far from http://www.northwestpropshafts.com

I thought they would be a straight swap?
What did the distructions say

J

Should be a straight swap, the disc is the same thickness as the old drum....

Been looking at old pics and the propshaft halves were butt up to each other, so it might have been a pre-existing issue.

Shortening is only £65, plus the Chancellors backhander

Before you shorten it drop it onto the bump stops.
This will give you the correct measument for jumping & landing
Then see how much droop you can get before you drop out the splines.
Then fit axle straps

Hicap phill said:

Before you shorten it drop it onto the bump stops.
This will give you the correct measument for jumping & landing
Then see how much droop you can get before you drop out the splines.
Then fit axle straps

Click to expand...

I really need to do the bumpstop test, as I don't think there's a lot of space between the diff and the tank cradle....

Today's installment:

Took the propshaft to NorthWest Propshafts, and i
know it was going to be bad news when the guy starts chuckling.... "Unbalanced Bodge Job" was his assessment. The centering flanges had been ground down on both endeplates so there was no way for him to even get it on a lathe... Looks like the builder knew there was a space problem and had taken drastic measures to correct it. New propshaft to be custom built for tomorrow lunchtime. At £150 it'll not break the bank and it will run smoothly.

Did the bumpstop test... Even though it currently has no bumpstops.

The locator arms on the diff smack into the tank protection a good six inches off the bumpstops. At one point I was lifting the whole backend up on the cradle so at least I know it's very strong.... Good and bad in equal measure.

Quick turnaround on the propshaft, was ready yesterday at 3!



Spent the afternoon building a mounting for the handbrake lever. And a shroud for the steering column.

Side repeaters.... Towards the front of the wing, or near the doors???

Swing your doors against the wings & then go forward a bit. This way you won't smash them if the wind catches the door.
Use TD5 slimline led less to catch

Handbrake lever fitted, propshaft on, tank cradle where it should be and side repeaters screwed down..

Next tasks are to refit the grill panel, shape up the top panel of the transmission tunnel and bolt on the shifter..... Oh, and to get the tyres shifted to the steel rims. Oh, and wire the wiper switch and switch console and fuse box and washer bottle and fabricate another wing mirror mount and and and......

Grill panel refitted after cutting out the required GRP, fitting a SS mesh and popping the cut down Defender slats back on. The side repeaters are now fitted and wired and the rear brake hoses changed.

Yesterday ( Sunday ) we had a trip to the Landy meet up near Congleton, the one supported by Beartown Tyres ( https://beartowntyres.com/products ).
Good rummage through the jumblesale bit scored a period RRC Haynes manual and a set of +2inch brake hoses.
A wander around the array of Landies in the carpark got us some ideas for the exhaust routing - exiting through the body, just in-front of the nearside rear wheel...

And now my daughter wants it re-painted PURPLE!?!

You seem to be keeping up a good pace and enthusiasm

I would remind you that you first priority is IVA and exhausts are a big downfall. They will check engine specs and if it was originally equipped with CATs you will need them to pass tight emissions/sound. Not sure if CATs are applicable to your engine year, but sound will.
After IVA I can’t say what might happen to the exhaust your choice.
Please don’t get to blinkered by what you want as a finished item your main concern is to get it approved first.
Not trying to dampen your efforts, but I would hate you to get carried away only to be crushed by a huge list from IVA.
good result with the prop sounds like a handy company to know

Oh and if you have a house full of females sometimes the easiest course for a happy life is Obey. It generally earns more garage brownie points

Keep it up

J

Agreed the IVA comes first..

Milner Phillips K674 oil filter holder thingy... Got one of these on the engine, What's it for?
(https://picclick.co.uk/Milner-Phillips-Land-Rover-Series-V8-Engine-Conversion-173650379118.html)
And there's two sensors attached, one appears to be pressure the temp..... can I block them off as I'm running the standard oil temp sensor?

Your oil filter adaptor thingy changes the angle of the filter so as not to clash with the front axle,I think. Some fit a remote filter kit.

Sensors no idea, a pic might help.. do you have a manual for the engine?

J

If room still tight for oil filter.
Get a Renault 5 GT turbo filter. 1/2 the size of normal filter & screws onto early engines

Been thinking of ways to get the 1950's doors upto IVA double latch spec.


After a bit of measuring I'm fairly sure I can remove the old latches and handles and, with a thick coat of thinking fit more modern burst proof units from late Series doors:


Now to coax the 60 year old doors into giving up their attachments without resorting to explosives...