Tippex Test

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Vulcan426

Vulcan426

New Member
Posts
84
Location
Essex
It may sound like a daft question, but how much movement should you see between the marks when you do the Tippex test?

Applied some marks about two weeks ago and have covered a couple of hundred miles since then - all on road (mostly A / B road). Had a look under tonight and, although the marks have moved relative to each other) there is only about ten degrees difference between them.

I suppose that it could just be sods law - they are moving and just ended up like this at the time that I checked.

Would be interested to know if there is a rule of thumb for how far they should move, though.

Cheers,

Ian.
 
Mine moved a lot further than that and I only drove a mile a so up the road and drove it around on some grass in left/right circles.
 
it dont matter.
if yu can imagine two rotating parts, sometimes they will line up, sometimes be 180 degrees out. The relative positions will vary infinately. Try driving it a bot more and check. And again. And again - it should be in diff positions every time.
 
Just to make sure it does at least a full circle you could stick some rope or so and connect it on the two moving parts, giving it some slack.......if the rope is no longer connected both sides .....
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
or do the torque test as shown in the Q & A's bit.
Click to expand...

Cheers Mad Hat Man. I did already try that - took a reading of 72 lbs/ft to move (digital torque wrench in tracking mode).

I think I'm just being a bit belt and braces with the Tippex test because we're planning to use the car for a couple of weeks touring in the Lake District next month - so I'm trying to get on top of everything before then.

Part of me says to just replace the VCU / bearings, but, like everyone, I don't have money to throw away. If the VCU is still doing what it's meant to - and, more importantly, not dmaging the rest of the drivetrain, then I would rather prevaricate spending £300.

Cheers again.
 
The point of the tippex test is to check that the vcu hasn't seized so why would you do it if you have already measured the torque that it takes to turn it?
 
take it to an empty car park or field, drive it on full lock forwards and reverse for a bit, then check the marks. drive it some more and re-check.

or use 2 different colour insulation tape. put one colour on both props to line up, then drive it a bit. if they have moved, put a different colour on and same routine.

as chaser said, if you can turn it doing the torque test, it probably isn't seized.

good luck
 
Like I said earlier - bit belt and braces.

The more research that you do, the more differing opinions you find on the validity of either (or both) of these tests. Given that I plan to use the vehicle for some touring next month, there seemed no harm in trying both approaches.

Will certainly try the full lock test.

Cheers.
 
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