Series 3 Timing a 2.25 petrol ex military engine

Hi,
Well my engine swap is progressing and last thing today i spun it over to get some fresh oil moving around.

My question is how do i go about setting the timing from scratch?
There is no inspection flap to check the timing marks of the flywheel, just a locating pin (is this TDC?)
I have electronic ignition / dizzy so where should that be pointing and would they be with a pin in the fly wheel or maybe one of the rockers at the top of its travel?

I don't know if there are any timing on the bottom triple pulley but i need to swap this for the standard single one, Will i loose any marks i may need to set things up??

This is all new to me as usually play with old oil burners... as usual any help and advice will be gratefully received

Andy

timing is tdc no1 ,with which both no 1 valves will be shut .,valves on no4 both partly open,tdc should be marked on front pulley,which is keyed to shaft so you cant get tdc on pulley wrong

Ill have to have a closer look tomorrow. so mark at TDC and rotor arm pointing to number 1 and we should be ok to go?
Just a thought James, would you know the size of the socket i would need to the the triple pulley off? I know I've nothing that's even close :-(
Thanks Again

Do you want to take the pulley off? If you do not have a socket just use mole grip pliers being careful not to chew the bolt. James has explained that TDC is marked on the pulley outside edge, which is lined up with the pointer to which you refer. They are either a pointer with multiple centres marked against a single point on the flywheel or vice versa (as in yours). All you need to do is be able to rotate the engine in the direction of rotation until you get to No1 piston to align the pointer and then position the rotor arm. If it's out a little you unclamp the dizzy and turn it in the opposite direction to the rotor arm arrow, not sure how this works for an electronic ignition because you are looking to turn it to the point at which the contact points are just opening. Another easy way to tell is to take the spark plug out and put your thumb over the hole and you can "feel" for the compression stroke starting. It's a wee bit awkward to do on your own as you've got to turn the engine and feel for the compression at the same time. It should work OK, once it's running you can check it with a strobe, by marking the two points with Tippex or something that shows up bright in the light.

Morning All.
I need to swap the 3 way pulley for a normal one as the fan belt isn't quite lining up... Plus i then get my starting handle drive dog back

I use to have a dial gauge for knowing when the 1st rocker was at its lowest point of travel (I think it was that way round, it was a while ago) If that lines up anything close with a TDC mark on the bottom pulley ill be happy.... but need to get a strobe for the fine tuning bit

What ever happened to the man that would come round in a big van and tune your car for you ????

Triple pulley means it's come from a 24v motor - normal fan belt is the inner one and drives the water pump. Outer two were the drive belts for the naffing great 90A generator. Starting handle drive dog should be there still. Timing mark is on the inner face of the inner pulley - it may not be immediately visible if there is much paint or crap/rust on that pulley. On mine I rotate the engine on the starting hand a 1/4 turn at a time and then feel the back edge of the inner puller with my thumb nail for the notch. Once found I dab a bit of white paint on it. then finish rotating the engine by hand until the mark lines up with the pointer on the front cover and the rotor arm points at #1 cylinder. That's pretty much it - from there on the 24v method varies from the 12v due to the sealed dizzy, screened ignition leads and plugs.

Ok have used the screwdriver in front piston in an attempt to find tdc.... rotor is either pointing to or away from number 1.... I think.....

dvb668w said:

Ok have used the screwdriver in front piston in an attempt to find tdc.... rotor is either pointing to or away from number 1.... I think.....

Click to expand...

but what are the valves doing on no1 as it could be tdc no4 your at

Hi All !

Many thanks to all your help with this, and a big thank you to Colin Darren and Mark who popped round twisted the dizzy and made it run... OK only on 3 cylinders but now I know what HT lead has failed that should be an easy fix as soon as the post man arrives

I have also ordered a Weber rebuild kit and will get that back on as soon as I can

I have learnt a lot and will no doubt forget most of it by the time I need to do it again

Once again Many thanks to all

Andy