Disco 2 Thoughts on Waxyoil?

Well, I've just spent an hour straight with a 4000psi jetwasher removing the old waxy oil and crud from my 03 chassis, and I think this is one of the only ways to do so. Tried doing it with an angle grinder wire brush and it just smears. So after getting soaked head to tow and coming out black myself, I thought, why the hell do people use this sh*t.
The only thing I see it doing, is protecting it for a certain amount of time, and then the chassis just rusts underneath it and it eventually begins to peal off.

I would much prefer a good quality rust inhibiting primer, chassis paint and maybe a top coat of stone chip, which is what I will do now the "majority" of the old waxy oil has been removed..
Gave me a good look at the chassis, needs a small weld where its split on the join up the rear, but nothing major and not in too bad shape.

..Never again

When I had my defender I waxoyled every couple of years, inside and out on chassis.
You sure its waxoyl you were removing?
Mine never appeared like that, it did wear thin where the road spray got at it, but nothing else to be concerned about.
My D2 will be getting a thorough look over shortly and i'll be waxoyling that if all looks ok.

Mine started as a "small" split in exactly the same place.

meego said:

Mine started as a "small" split in exactly the same place.

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When you say "started", what did it end up?

Well I can only assume whats waxy oil... could be mixed with god knows what, but its sticky, and scrapes off to some extent.

This is the split.

Jamiegreen said:

Well, I've just spent an hour straight with a 4000psi jetwasher removing the old waxy oil and crud from my 03 chassis, and I think this is one of the only ways to do so. Tried doing it with an angle grinder wire brush and it just smears. So after getting soaked head to tow and coming out black myself, I thought, why the hell do people use this sh*t.
The only thing I see it doing, is protecting it for a certain amount of time, and then the chassis just rusts underneath it and it eventually begins to peal off.

I would much prefer a good quality rust inhibiting primer, chassis paint and maybe a top coat of stone chip, which is what I will do now the "majority" of the old waxy oil has been removed..
Gave me a good look at the chassis, needs a small weld where its split on the join up the rear, but nothing major and not in too bad shape.

..Never again

Click to expand...

generally because its sprayed onto an already rusting chassis,it does slow it, but not much would perform well on rust stone chip etc would be worse

Bantam1 said:

When you say "started", what did it end up?

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Photos in here. Bottom of the chassis legs here are like a sandwich and rust forms between the layers.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/chassis-welding-and-battery.332295/

jamesmartin said:

generally because its sprayed onto an already rusting chassis,it does slow it, but not much would perform well on rust stone chip etc would be worse

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Spraying waxy on an already rusting chassis... Closing the stable door after the horse has bolted comes to mind

meego said:

Photos in here. Bottom of the chassis legs here are like a sandwich and rust forms between the layers.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/chassis-welding-and-battery.332295/

Click to expand...

Good welding job anyway, and looking at those pics, thats the next job, drop the fuel tank to prep that part of the chassis for paint... and fix the p*sssing fuel leak.

Jamiegreen said:

Well I can only assume whats waxy oil... could be mixed with god knows what, but its sticky, and scrapes off to some extent.

This is the split.

Click to expand...

I think you will that needs a bit more than a small weld.

meego said:

I think you will that needs a bit more than a small weld.

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Well even if I need to plate it, not too bigger deal compared to some I've seen.. like my first d2

Jamiegreen said:

Good welding job anyway, and looking at those pics, thats the next job, drop the fuel tank to prep that part of the chassis for paint... and fix the p*sssing fuel leak.

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Dropping the tank is a pain, as you need to strip the boot trim out just to lift the carpet. If you are going to keep this Disco, do the job right and cut all the rust out.

Jamiegreen said:

Spraying waxy on an already rusting chassis... Closing the stable door after the horse has bolted comes to mind

Click to expand...

its common practice,most dont notice anything needs doing till rust has started ,waxoil helps as such were other stuff wouldnt,but nothings going to beat paint on clean metal

meego said:

Dropping the tank is a pain, as you need to strip the boot trim out just to lift the carpet. If you are going to keep this Disco, do the job right and cut all the rust out.

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I have done the carpet before without removing the side trims, just sort of slid it out one side. But I will be removing all trim anyway for installing extra sound proofing on the backside of the trim, and under the carpet, the list of jobs for this disco is never ending

Jamiegreen said:

Well even if I need to plate it, not too bigger deal compared to some I've seen.. like my first d2

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I bought a kit off eBay with all the plates laser cut. It was about £40 but well worth it. When you drop the tank, you will see the sides of the legs are like rippled. That's the rust behind and between the spot welds swelling outwards.

meego said:

I bought a kit off eBay with all the plates laser cut. It was about £40 but well worth it. When you drop the tank, you will see the sides of the legs are like rippled. That's the rust behind and between the spot welds swelling outwards.

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Fill me with joy why don't you
Well... will see when its out what needs doing, one of the worst parts I can see is the "cross member?" the bit that the arbs bolt onto, its very rusty.

Jamiegreen said:

I have done the carpet before without removing the side trims, just sort of slid it out one side. But I will be removing all trim anyway for installing extra sound proofing on the backside of the trim, and under the carpet, the list of jobs for this disco is never ending

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When you remove the offside boot trim panel, check the louvered vent. The hole it fits in on mine was starting to rust round the edges.

Jamiegreen said:

Well I can only assume whats waxy oil... could be mixed with god knows what, but its sticky, and scrapes off to some extent.

This is the split.

Click to expand...

that looks more repairable than most, its not bulging out with rust between the layers

Jamiegreen said:

Fill me with joy why don't you
Well... will see when its out what needs doing, one of the worst parts I can see is the "cross member?" the bit that the arbs bolt onto, its very rusty.

Click to expand...

Just trying to prepare you for the inevitable.
I've moved on to the passenger foot well and bulkhead. Now that's giving me a headache.

Chassis wax mixed with engine oil does a pretty good job at stopping rust in its tracks.
Waxoyl itself is pretty poor and certainly isnt what it was 20 odd years ago