'Think' clutch has gone. Boo hoo, our first breakdown!

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Also, just for fun get a spare plastic clip for the clutch fork / slave cylinder rod, Altho mine is running without one, If I had it apart I would fit another one

Cheers
 
Oh,

And of it is anything like mine, it was a PITA to bleed , So I ended up reverse bleeding it, So have something to do that if needed. Do not forget which way up the slave cylinder goes.

Cheers
 
Oh,

And of it is anything like mine, it was a PITA to bleed , So I ended up reverse bleeding it, So have something to do that if needed. Do not forget which way up the slave cylinder goes.

Cheers
I pressure bled mine using one of those kits that plugs into the tyre....worked fine for me.

As for the slave cylinder - yes, the bleed nipple goes upper most.
 
Don't forget the spigot bush for the end of the crank, soak it in oil for 24 hrs before fitting. All that carnage makes mine look like a simple change!
 
Potentially you will need the clutch fork pivot as well as it is beginning to punch through the fork. I did with mine as the spring clip on the back of the fork had worn a pair of grooves into the ball.
 
Potentially you will need the clutch fork pivot as well as it is beginning to punch through the fork. I did with mine as the spring clip on the back of the fork had worn a pair of grooves into the ball.

Good call.
Going to give the gearbox a clean down later on, after I have had a look at where the small oil leaks are coming from (think one leak is the intermediate shaft on the transfer box). Its hard to know what I 'should' replace, and what I 'would like' to replace. There is almost 'too much' information on the internet when I google it, and its battering my head. All I'm after is a list of 'what I would change or replace if you have taken out the drive assembly' sort of thing. Slowly generating a list though from the comments being made on this forum. Thanks people
Andy
 
If you have the funds available, the things to replace are those which you can easily get access to while the box is out. Skimping and trying to save a couple of quid can soon become disproportionately expensive (time wise) if you end up having to pull the box a second time to replace what should have been replaced on the first go!
 
If you have the funds available, the things to replace are those which you can easily get access to while the box is out. Skimping and trying to save a couple of quid can soon become disproportionately expensive (time wise) if you end up having to pull the box a second time to replace what should have been replaced on the first go!
Too true Kwakerman. Thats why I'm trying to find out suggestions of what to get and change/replace.
Difficult when you haven't had one apart before.

Andy
 
Too true Kwakerman. Thats why I'm trying to find out suggestions of what to get and change/replace.
Difficult when you haven't had one apart before.

Andy
The transfer case intermediate shaft seal rings are pretty easy to do, particularly seeing as the whole box combo is out of your truck, though, you'll need to separate the transfer case from the rear of the main gearbox to do them. Whilst it's all out check the two gearbox breather lines up to the engine bay are clear and open, replace the main gearbox output shaft seal, and check the output gear and its mating spline, these were subject to wear leading to failure in earlier boxes. The intermediate shaft seals are a common point of oil loss and are inexpensive to buy. Worth doing from the point you are at now, you'll be pleased when you park and the beast does not mark it's territory with an oil splot.
 
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