P38A Things that should be somewhere...

ibgarrow said:

Oh. Bum. Hopefully it'll be blend problem, then, that'll be sorted by my attention!

Any other probable causes?

I really don't want to put it into a JLR dealer for diagnosis (I'm the member who was quoted over £5K for a service!)

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Do you not know anyone with a Nanocom?

ibgarrow said:

Oh. Bum. Hopefully it'll be blend problem, then, that'll be sorted by my attention!

Any other probable causes?

I really don't want to put it into a JLR dealer for diagnosis (I'm the member who was quoted over £5K for a service!)

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At that sort of price, if there is no-one near you with a nanocom, perhaps you should consider investing in one?

wammers said:

Do you not know anyone with a Nanocom?

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Nope. me Billy-no-mates out in the sticks at the top of Englandshire.
Looked at Nanocom, but it's more than half the value of my P38!

ibgarrow said:

Nope. me Billy-no-mates out in the sticks at the top of Englandshire.
Looked at Nanocom, but it's more than half the value of my P38!

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Pity it would help you a lot. You could pin point the problem in a couple of minutes. Guessing can get very expensive.

ibgarrow said:

Nope. me Billy-no-mates out in the sticks at the top of Englandshire.
Looked at Nanocom, but it's more than half the value of my P38!

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I get where you're coming from BUT how much would it save you, over the ownership period of veh? If you intend hanging on to her and can't find a friendly auto electrician, it might be worth saving up for.
I have a friendly auto spark and only get charged £30 most times , but working out how many times he has been out( approx 3 per yr for 8 yrs), and how many times of those visits were within my ability(at least half), I am now looking at contacting Storey for my own magic box.

P.s have you checked Regional LZers, to see if anyone is near you?

ibgarrow said:

Oh. Bum. Hopefully it'll be blend problem, then, that'll be sorted by my attention!

Any other probable causes?

I really don't want to put it into a JLR dealer for diagnosis (I'm the member who was quoted over £5K for a service!)

Click to expand...

the book symbol will most likely be blend motor potentiometers

Do they have to be replaced, or will freeing up the blend motors help?

MartyUK did mine..

here's what he posted on the last page

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/editpost.php?do=updatepost&p=2160097

ibgarrow said:

Do they have to be replaced, or will freeing up the blend motors help?

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Blend flaps rarely if ever seize. Can fail due to pot or armature shorting due to carbon dust buildup but easily cleaned. Distribution flaps are the ones that seize, the motor drives two flaps so works hard and fails more often.

Thanks people.
If I want to check everything over once I've finished "fixing" things, can I do so without refitting the dash, airbag etc.? The battery's disconnected now, along with the dash, passenger airbag etc. and I read that if I want to temporarily reconnect things, I should pull the SRS fuse under the bonnet. Would this let me refill the cooling system, reconnect the instrument panel and HEVAC temporarily, start the engine and check that all's ok before screwing down the dash etc.?

There is also a sensor on one of the metal pipes that go into the heater matrix, you can see it if look up under the dash on the drivers side, mine went bad and caused the book symbol to show up. All good once replaced.

PPP38vouge said:

There is also a sensor on one of the metal pipes that go into the heater matrix, you can see it if look up under the dash on the drivers side, mine went bad and caused the book symbol to show up. All good once replaced.

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Controls the fan speed when heater is on. Speed is subject to coolant temp.

I want to check things are tight before re-assembling the dash. If I refit the instrument panel and HEVAC electrics, is it ok to reconnect the battery to run the engine, refill coolant and see? Or will I bu&&er something up?

Well, I couldn't wait so I pulled the big SRS fuse under the bonnet, connected up the instrument panel and HEVAC, filled up the expansion tank, and ignored the various bleeps for the Windows etc. No leaks so far and both inlet and exit pipes are hot. Just have to keep burping the cooling system.
But I have an SRS fault on the dash! Bum.
Will it go away when I refit the passenger airbag and plug the SRS fuse back in?

i think the later SRS system fault checks itself, IE if the fault is gone it wont keep the SRS light on. Don't quote me on that though.

if the light stays on, you'll diagnostics to read the fault trigger and turn it off

ibgarrow said:

Nope. me Billy-no-mates out in the sticks at the top of Englandshire.
Looked at Nanocom, but it's more than half the value of my P38!

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sp00k is in Washington but he looks suspiciously like a Maccum. Says he has some sort of diagnostic on the LZIR map.

@mutsnutz is up that way too, I think. Not sure what he has but he might know someone if he hasn't got a Nanocom himself.

Well, eight days later...
I've removed the whole dash, and replaced the O-rings. No leaks, and I've finally replaced the dash. It mostly lines up, although the rear right bolt securing the passenger airbag was bad to reach both in and out, and the driver's upper air vent was a pain to replace. Only one screw left over! I didn't refit the clips securing the air vents at the end of the dash, as I couldn't see how they clipped in, and the vents are quite secure anyway.
Replacing the SRS fuse has cleared the on-screen fault.
So far, so good.
But I've lost the right-hand-side speaker output so the radio unit will have to come out again :-(
And I've been experimenting with adding an AUX In to it, hooked up to a cheap Chines Bluetooth module. Perhaps it was my wiring/connections/soldering.
Whatever, the car's usable again. Only the air suspension to renew, and the tailgate bottom to fix.
Heigh-Ho.

PS I haven't worked full-time, just when it wasn't raining/cold/windy. I estimate it's taken me 12 hours all in.

Oh. And the book symbol has returned. I hoped it was caused by the temp sensor (replaced) or the leaky O-rings, but obviously not. All the blend flaps appeared to move freely when I tried....

ibgarrow said:

Oh. And the book symbol has returned. I hoped it was caused by the temp sensor (replaced) or the leaky O-rings, but obviously not. All the blend flaps appeared to move freely when I tried....

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Might need calibrating. Mine came up once in the past when the air-con gas needed recharging.

Grrrrrr said:

Might need calibrating. Mine came up once in the past when the air-con gas needed recharging.

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‪i was told low or lack of gas wouldn't trigger the book symbol. I might try Quickfit.