Thermostat or no thermostat?

I've only had my Hippo for a couple of months and so far, ignoring the Hyundai incident, all is well, however it is a bit thirsty and the temperature guage rarely seems to move unless I'm stationary for ten minutes or more.

I suspect, but haven't check yet, that someone has taken the thermostat out so that it is permanently running cold as a deterrent to the old head gasket problem, but this also means it's probably running on choke the whole time.

Now, I've got a new thermostat that I could put in it but given the K Series's propensity to lunch its head gasket is it worth taking the risk?

Now this is a 1998 1.8 and I know the last owner had to have the head gasket replaced, and I've read how there are different hoses available that move the thermostat to a new position. Is it worth buying the new hose or is it a waste of ca$h?

I'm a competent DIY mechanic, to the extent that I've replaced the head gaskets on my old V8 Discovery in the past, so don't mind getting my hands dirty.

mh. . .man seems ta fink the electric water pump mod is a good idea fer yer motor. . . . . .not a petrol head merself but fink most the mods now have sorted most the k injuns problems . . . .

I certainly hope so. This motor's not going to be doing a huge number of miles (~5k/yr) but I'd rather not have it go pop on me.

What's the electric pump fix entail?

look here

Thanks for the link. I've stored it in my favourites and will return to re-read it in the morning, when I'm sober.

Cheers
A.

Sounds like the stat is missing, what is the engine rpm on idle. It should be 750rpm

The stat is easy enough to do, a bit tricky, drain your coolant from the lower rad hose first, remove air box for extra space.

10mm bolts x2 holding the arm to the engine block, use extension bars and a socket set, on refit of these bolts a piece of insulating tape wrapped around the socket to hold the bolt on will help matters. Use a small inspection or shaving mirror as you will be working on the blind side.

The stat housing is held by 8mm x3 bolts, a rachet spanner is best for this. If its awkward reaching over the back of the engine then stand on something to save the back ache. There will be a small pressure lock in the coolant arm, so more coolant will drain out when removed.

Regarding all the preventative measures, none are a guaranteed prevention. For example the achilles heel of your engine is likely to be the rad hose splitting, causing loss of coolant and overheating etc. never mind failed water pump, failed stat or HG.

If you fit the standard stat then warm up the engine to normal temp before revving hard.

I did some messing about with the stat during the summer months. I finally settled on 2.5 mm holes either side of the support struts.

I connected the stat assemblage up to a 3000 litre per hour pump, the jet was 2.2m from the stat ring . I had one with 4mm holes, jet was around 1.8m.
The jet will help protrude cooler water further into the block with more dispersion as its under pressure.

You dont have to do this mod, standard stat works fine if allowed to warm up properly.

may i suggest this wud be the best time to fit a remote thermostat and the heater mods?

oh and make sure to fully follow the refill procedures as yu will suffer air locks (at best) if yu dont

stat holes,

stat holes! arse holes? - same to yu

I think I'll try the cheap option first - refitting the stat with a couple of bypass holes drilled - and see how she runs. I can always fit the new hoses later on if that doesn't seem effective enough.

Tick-over is >1000rpm so I'm assuming the cold start mechanism is still in operation.

Ambriel said:

I think I'll try the cheap option first - refitting the stat with a couple of bypass holes drilled - and see how she runs. I can always fit the new hoses later on if that doesn't seem effective enough.

Tick-over is >1000rpm so I'm assuming the cold start mechanism is still in operation.

Click to expand...

My thoughts exactly on the cheap option.

Your tick over is running rich by the sounds of things