The good luck bus has passed me buy

Here I was happily driving from work to the house for some lunch,parked the Disco outside went in and had a sandwich
Half an hour later jumped in and cranked and cranked but not even a spurt of life
Now to date I have had new pump,filter,FPR,injector washers and seals all within 6 months so WTF is it this time :-(

Oh and I have no faults showing

Are you sure you haven't tripped the immobiliser somehow? Have you tried pressing the unlock button on the keyfob again? Apologies if it's obvious (I hope it is that simple!)

Thanks Difflock Yes that I am afraid was one of the many desperate measures taken to try and get back to work on time but no luck

for the posterity: IMMOBILISER = NO CRANK, so as long as it cranks never blame the immobiliser

a simple test is to check the battery voltage while cranking(provided it's manual)...if it drops under 10V it will not start but the starter will spin fast without problems cos it "eats" all the power and the ECU doesnt have enough to open the injectors... give a good charge to the battery before any other action

by the way can you hear the pump running when you put ignition on?

Sierrafery yes I can hear the pump but I have noticed that the pump starts with a sort of eeeeeeeeyoooooo noise but I think it's made this noise since it was fitted
I will try and charge the battery but the car was still warm and was only stopped for half an hour

are you sure that the charging system makes it's job though?... cos alternator regulator failure is not uncommon at all and it will not trigger the warning light but not charge enough to keep the battery in good shape so rule that out too, if you'll be able to start it measure the voltage with engine running and report back, if not measure the voltage while cranking...if in this voltage supply area everything is ok it remains the air bleed valve so with the well charged battery in the morning give it 5 throttles then wait untill the MIL stops flashing and try then...if still no joy you'll have to measure the fuel pressure

Please forgive me for stating the obvious but this happened to the dealer I brought mine off. It turned out that it was out of fuel! It also made the fuel pump more noisy.

Thank I will give these things a try

Danam yes it was one of the first thing I thought about an got 6ltrs added but no difference to starting or pump noise

I will charge the battery now

Fingers crossed 😊

Guys
When I crank over the three amigos and the hill decent lights come back on is this something?

Albjames said:

Guys
When I crank over the three amigos and the hill decent lights come back on is this something?

Click to expand...

Sounds to me like the battery is weak - irrespective of age.

If you have a multi-meter you should check the voltage across the pos and neg poles;
1. with the ignition switched off;

2. then again whilst cranking the motor.

Once you have the results post them on here.

Assuming they are low (1. less than 12.6v & 2. less than 11.6v) put the battery on charge overnight to see if you can resurrect it - but imo get ready to buy a new, good quality battery with 90amp/hr and 800CCA. They will cost about £100.

Dave

thebiglad said:

... good quality battery with 90amp/hr and 800CCA. They will cost about £100.

Dave

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sorry to contradict you Dave but that's weak for Td5, the originally fitted delco was 110AH , 850 CCA and it's always good to upgrade my recommendation is at least one like this C31-900 Numax Car Battery 12V 115Ah - Car Batteries - Numax Car Batteries , or even better C31-1000 Numax Car Battery 12V 120Ah - Car Batteries - Numax Car Batteries (that's what i have and it's the better ever)

Well battery charged still no start so organised to get it recovered to a LR Indy
Bang goes Christmas looks like the children will have to make do with a Christmas Budgie no money for Turkey

The fact that the battery is charged is irrelevant as long as you are not certain that you get more than 10V on it while cranking

I must admit that when I said "Sounds to me like the battery is weak - irrespective of age.

If you have a multi-meter you should check the voltage across the pos and neg poles;
1. with the ignition switched off;

2. then again whilst cranking the motor.

Once you have the results post them on here.

Assuming they are low (1. less than 12.6v & 2. less than 11.6v) put the battery on charge overnight to see if you can resurrect it - but imo get ready to buy a new, good quality battery with 90amp/hr and 800CCA. They will cost about £100."

I mistakenly thought I was giving clear, concise information that could be followed - but apparently not

Sorry guys I did get 10.9v on cranking for about five goes then it dropped of to 10.1v
Thats the reason I have given up plus it's my only transport so need it back ASAP
I have a suspicion air is getting drawn in somewhere
Thanks again

Albjames said:

Sorry guys I did get 10.9v on cranking for about five goes then it dropped of to 10.1v
Thats the reason I have given up plus it's my only transport so need it back ASAP
I have a suspicion air is getting drawn in somewhere
Thanks again

Click to expand...

I understand you made your decision but I would still be suspicious about the battery.


Dave

Dave
I will let you know the result from the garage
Desperate measures and all that ;-) Plus the weather is getting colder up here in North Scotland so I might invest in a new battery (Christmas present)

Albjames said:

Dave
I will let you know the result from the garage
Desperate measures and all that ;-) Plus the weather is getting colder up here in North Scotland so I might invest in a new battery (Christmas present)

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Hi mate and the best of luck with your car.

Know that area well, started out in Cuminestown, then South Gamrie (nr. Gardenstown) then Mactery nr Fyvie. Used to shop at Dyce.

Dave

PS If you do decide to get yourself anew battery, do yourself a favour and get a good'un. OE battery is 110amp/hr and 850cca so you'll want to equal or beat that.