The almost imperceptible glow ....

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W

William Tasso

Guest
Greetings One and all

The almost imperceptible glow ....
.... from the ignition light has ceased[1] and now the charge meter[2] is
definately recording low.

No other symptioms obvious.

This is in the 110 V8 - early 90s vintage

So, now we're definately running on battery - and we all know that is not
a sustainable state of affairs.

Is there a well documented plan of attack or am I into a replacement
alternator regardless?

As always, thanks for reading.

[1] Was only visible at night and then only for a few minutes after
starting.
[2] Has no markings (aside from battery graphic) - not sure if this
records current or voltage.

--
William Tasso
 
William Tasso wrote:

> Greetings One and all
>
> The almost imperceptible glow ....
> ... from the ignition light has ceased[1] and now the charge meter[2] is
> definately recording low.
>
> No other symptioms obvious.
>
> This is in the 110 V8 - early 90s vintage
>
> So, now we're definately running on battery - and we all know that is not
> a sustainable state of affairs.
>
> Is there a well documented plan of attack or am I into a replacement
> alternator regardless?
>
> As always, thanks for reading.
>
> [1] Was only visible at night and then only for a few minutes after
> starting.
> [2] Has no markings (aside from battery graphic) - not sure if this
> records current or voltage.
>

1] certainly sounds like the alternator - but alternators are usually
repairable, often for a lot less than replacement (see an auto electrician,
not a dealer) - last time I had this problem it was a broken brush spring -
pulled it to bits myself and replaced it with one from an old alternator I
had replaced because of bearing failure. Total cost about two hours, zero
dollars.

2] This will be a voltmeter - ammeters have almost never been fitted with
alternators, for reasons I won't go into here. Ammeters are distinguished
in this application by having a positive and negative scale with zero at
the centre.

JD
 
JD wrote:
> William Tasso wrote:
>
>
>>Greetings One and all
>>
>>The almost imperceptible glow ....
>>... from the ignition light has ceased[1] and now the charge meter[2] is
>>definately recording low.
>>
>>No other symptioms obvious.
>>
>>This is in the 110 V8 - early 90s vintage
>>
>>So, now we're definately running on battery - and we all know that is not
>>a sustainable state of affairs.
>>
>>Is there a well documented plan of attack or am I into a replacement
>>alternator regardless?
>>
>>As always, thanks for reading.
>>
>>[1] Was only visible at night and then only for a few minutes after
>>starting.
>>[2] Has no markings (aside from battery graphic) - not sure if this
>>records current or voltage.
>>
>
>
> 1] certainly sounds like the alternator - but alternators are usually
> repairable, often for a lot less than replacement (see an auto electrician,
> not a dealer) - last time I had this problem it was a broken brush spring -
> pulled it to bits myself and replaced it with one from an old alternator I
> had replaced because of bearing failure. Total cost about two hours, zero
> dollars.
>
> 2] This will be a voltmeter - ammeters have almost never been fitted with
> alternators, for reasons I won't go into here. Ammeters are distinguished
> in this application by having a positive and negative scale with zero at
> the centre.
>
> JD

Well, my 1983 110 V8 has a charge meter which looks like that, and is
definetley fitted with an alternator.

Stuart
 
Srtgray wrote:

> JD wrote:
>> William Tasso wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Greetings One and all
>>>
>>>The almost imperceptible glow ....
>>>... from the ignition light has ceased[1] and now the charge meter[2] is
>>>definately recording low.
>>>
>>>No other symptioms obvious.
>>>
>>>This is in the 110 V8 - early 90s vintage
>>>
>>>So, now we're definately running on battery - and we all know that is not
>>>a sustainable state of affairs.
>>>
>>>Is there a well documented plan of attack or am I into a replacement
>>>alternator regardless?
>>>
>>>As always, thanks for reading.
>>>
>>>[1] Was only visible at night and then only for a few minutes after
>>>starting.
>>>[2] Has no markings (aside from battery graphic) - not sure if this
>>>records current or voltage.
>>>
>>
>>
>> 1] certainly sounds like the alternator - but alternators are usually
>> repairable, often for a lot less than replacement (see an auto
>> electrician, not a dealer) - last time I had this problem it was a broken
>> brush spring - pulled it to bits myself and replaced it with one from an
>> old alternator I had replaced because of bearing failure. Total cost
>> about two hours, zero dollars.
>>
>> 2] This will be a voltmeter - ammeters have almost never been fitted with
>> alternators, for reasons I won't go into here. Ammeters are distinguished
>> in this application by having a positive and negative scale with zero at
>> the centre.
>>
>> JD
>
> Well, my 1983 110 V8 has a charge meter which looks like that, and is
> definetley fitted with an alternator.
>
> Stuart

Yes, they do exist, but very rare - problem is that with an ammeter the
entire current has to flow through the meter unless you use a remote shunt.
When alternators were introduced, the current they produced increased
compared to generators, and faced with heavier wire up behind the dash or a
remote shunt, most manufacturers either used no gauge at all or a
voltmeter. Of course, some owners fitted their own anyway.
JD
 

"William Tasso" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:eek:[email protected]...
> Greetings One and all
>
> The almost imperceptible glow ....
> ... from the ignition light has ceased[1] and now the charge meter[2] is
> definately recording low.
>
> No other symptioms obvious.
>
> This is in the 110 V8 - early 90s vintage
>
> So, now we're definately running on battery - and we all know that is not
> a sustainable state of affairs.
>
> Is there a well documented plan of attack or am I into a replacement
> alternator regardless?
>
> As always, thanks for reading.
>
> [1] Was only visible at night and then only for a few minutes after
> starting.
> [2] Has no markings (aside from battery graphic) - not sure if this
> records current or voltage.
>
> --
> William Tasso

Ah the Prince Of Sudden (Unexplained) Darkness strikes again, have a
squint at
http://www.fordfans.cz/download/manual/0686-05a.pdf for diagrams of the
internal gubbins your local Lucas Centre should be able to supply the bits
you need or if you get lucky it could be a simple mechanical fault manky
spring muck under the brushes etc. .
Derek


 
Derek <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny
about:
> "William Tasso" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:eek:[email protected]...
>> Greetings One and all
>>
>> The almost imperceptible glow ....
>> ... from the ignition light has ceased[1] and now the charge
>> meter[2] is definately recording low.
>>
>> No other symptioms obvious.
>>
>> This is in the 110 V8 - early 90s vintage
>>
>> So, now we're definately running on battery - and we all know that
>> is not a sustainable state of affairs.
>>
>> Is there a well documented plan of attack or am I into a replacement
>> alternator regardless?
>>
>> As always, thanks for reading.
>>
>> [1] Was only visible at night and then only for a few minutes after
>> starting.
>> [2] Has no markings (aside from battery graphic) - not sure if this
>> records current or voltage.
>>
>> --
>> William Tasso
>
> Ah the Prince Of Sudden (Unexplained) Darkness strikes again, have a
> squint at
> http://www.fordfans.cz/download/manual/0686-05a.pdf for diagrams of
> the internal gubbins your local Lucas Centre should be able to supply
> the bits you need or if you get lucky it could be a simple mechanical
> fault manky spring muck under the brushes etc. .
> Derek

£550 (Landrover price not inc VAT) Alternator for my last RRC codt £35 to
have repaired.

Halfords quoted £115 for an Alternator for the 101, BUT i had to tell them a
few lies ... Like it wasn't a 101 cos they don't exist cos they aren't on
the computer.

Local Auto shop £40 For 101 Alternator - Bigger one infact than the one I
took in though I did have to order and it's not a gen Lucas but one by CJF
Rotating Electrics - Dunno how good it will be yet thou as it's still at my
feet - Roll on Tuesday 2PM (Exam out of the way!)

Lee D


 

"Lee_D" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Derek <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny
> about:
>> "William Tasso" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:eek:[email protected]...
>>> Greetings One and all
>>>
>>> The almost imperceptible glow ....
>>> ... from the ignition light has ceased[1] and now the charge
>>> meter[2] is definately recording low.
>>>
>>> No other symptioms obvious.
>>>
>>> This is in the 110 V8 - early 90s vintage
>>>
>>> So, now we're definately running on battery - and we all know that
>>> is not a sustainable state of affairs.
>>>
>>> Is there a well documented plan of attack or am I into a replacement
>>> alternator regardless?
>>>
>>> As always, thanks for reading.
>>>
>>> [1] Was only visible at night and then only for a few minutes after
>>> starting.
>>> [2] Has no markings (aside from battery graphic) - not sure if this
>>> records current or voltage.
>>>
>>> --
>>> William Tasso
>>
>> Ah the Prince Of Sudden (Unexplained) Darkness strikes again, have a
>> squint at
>> http://www.fordfans.cz/download/manual/0686-05a.pdf for diagrams of
>> the internal gubbins your local Lucas Centre should be able to supply
>> the bits you need or if you get lucky it could be a simple mechanical
>> fault manky spring muck under the brushes etc. .
>> Derek
>
> £550 (Landrover price not inc VAT) Alternator for my last RRC codt £35 to
> have repaired.
>
> Halfords quoted £115 for an Alternator for the 101, BUT i had to tell them
> a few lies ... Like it wasn't a 101 cos they don't exist cos they aren't
> on the computer.
>
> Local Auto shop £40 For 101 Alternator - Bigger one infact than the one I
> took in though I did have to order and it's not a gen Lucas but one by CJF
> Rotating Electrics - Dunno how good it will be yet thou as it's still at
> my feet - Roll on Tuesday 2PM (Exam out of the way!)
>
> Lee D
I found a supplier for Alternator brushes at any rate
http://www.mike.munro.cwc.net/off_road/l_rover/elec.htm wonder if Kato has
an 11AC ?
Derek


 
On or around Sat, 09 Sep 2006 23:24:00 +0100, "William Tasso"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Greetings One and all
>
>The almost imperceptible glow ....
>... from the ignition light has ceased[1] and now the charge meter[2] is
>definately recording low.
>
>No other symptioms obvious.
>
>This is in the 110 V8 - early 90s vintage
>
>So, now we're definately running on battery - and we all know that is not
>a sustainable state of affairs.
>
>Is there a well documented plan of attack or am I into a replacement
>alternator regardless?

sounds like an alternator. dim glow from the battery light while running
is, IIRC, a symptom of failing diodes.

swap the alternator is the easy solution. It is possible to get 'em mended,
but y9ou need to have a local alternator-mender to be worthwhile, and
moreover to have a fault that's cheaply fixable.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"Carpe diem, quam minimum credula postero" (sieze today, and put
as little trust as you can in tomorrow) Horace (65 - 8 BC) Odes, I.xi.8
 
On or around Sun, 10 Sep 2006 00:43:50 +0200, Srtgray
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>JD wrote:
>>
>> 2] This will be a voltmeter - ammeters have almost never been fitted with
>> alternators, for reasons I won't go into here. Ammeters are distinguished
>> in this application by having a positive and negative scale with zero at
>> the centre.
>>
>> JD
>
>Well, my 1983 110 V8 has a charge meter which looks like that, and is
>definetley fitted with an alternator.

You can have ammeters and alternators. Trouble with ammeters is they don't
actually tell you that the battery will charge, only that current is being
sent into the battery. Voltmeter is better as it lets you see the voltage,
both on and off-charge. ISTR a voltmeter on my 110.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"Carpe diem, quam minimum credula postero" (sieze today, and put
as little trust as you can in tomorrow) Horace (65 - 8 BC) Odes, I.xi.8
 
On or around Sat, 09 Sep 2006 23:54:34 GMT, "Derek"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>I found a supplier for Alternator brushes at any rate
>http://www.mike.munro.cwc.net/off_road/l_rover/elec.htm wonder if Kato has
>an 11AC ?

possible but unlikely these days. remind us what motor...

11AC is an early alternator with external (separate) regulator. Most
alternators now have the brushes built into the regulator unit which is
often sealed. Bosch ones, the regulator screws onto the back end of the
alternator. Lucas ACR ones have it under the black cover, for example.


--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"You praise the firm restraint with which they write -_
I'm with you there, of course: They use the snaffle and the bit
alright, but where's the bloody horse? - Roy Campbell (1902-1957)
 
Austin Shackles wrote:

> On or around Sun, 10 Sep 2006 00:43:50 +0200, Srtgray
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>>JD wrote:
>>>
>>> 2] This will be a voltmeter - ammeters have almost never been fitted
>>> with alternators, for reasons I won't go into here. Ammeters are
>>> distinguished in this application by having a positive and negative
>>> scale with zero at the centre.
>>>
>>> JD
>>
>>Well, my 1983 110 V8 has a charge meter which looks like that, and is
>>definetley fitted with an alternator.
>
> You can have ammeters and alternators. Trouble with ammeters is they
> don't actually tell you that the battery will charge, only that current is
> being
> sent into the battery. Voltmeter is better as it lets you see the
> voltage,
> both on and off-charge. ISTR a voltmeter on my 110.
>
Ideally you would have both, but I agree the voltmeter is more use. However,
the ammeter enables you to see the unexpected current drain.
JD
 
"JD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

> Yes, they do exist, but very rare - problem is that with an ammeter the
> entire current has to flow through the meter unless you use a remote
shunt.
> When alternators were introduced, the current they produced increased
> compared to generators, and faced with heavier wire up behind the dash or
a
> remote shunt, most manufacturers either used no gauge at all or a
> voltmeter. Of course, some owners fitted their own anyway.

This is something I've been puzzled about since I got my SIII 109, it has an
ammeter fitted to the centre of the three meter holes and three lengths of
what looks like original, heavy gauge, wire connected to it but these have
been chopped off after a few feet. There's no obvious sign of where they
went either. An ammeter doesn't appear on any of the wiring diagrams I can
find except for a FFR but I'm told this has always been a civilian, and it's
presently 12V. So does anyone have an idea what might have happened?. Just
to add to the confusion there is a plate on the driver's side of the seat
box that shows the wiring for 24V batteries, I suspect the seat box has been
taken from an FFR donor vehicle as I have pictures during a previous
restoration that don't show the plate.

Greg


 
JD wrote:

> William Tasso wrote:
>
>
>>Greetings One and all
>>
>>The almost imperceptible glow ....
>>... from the ignition light has ceased[1] and now the charge meter[2] is
>>definately recording low.
>>
>>No other symptioms obvious.
>>
>>This is in the 110 V8 - early 90s vintage
>>
>>So, now we're definately running on battery - and we all know that is not
>>a sustainable state of affairs.
>>
>>Is there a well documented plan of attack or am I into a replacement
>>alternator regardless?
>>
>>As always, thanks for reading.
>>
>>[1] Was only visible at night and then only for a few minutes after
>>starting.
>>[2] Has no markings (aside from battery graphic) - not sure if this
>>records current or voltage.
>>
>
>
> 1] certainly sounds like the alternator - but alternators are usually
> repairable, often for a lot less than replacement (see an auto electrician,
> not a dealer) - last time I had this problem it was a broken brush spring -
> pulled it to bits myself and replaced it with one from an old alternator I
> had replaced because of bearing failure. Total cost about two hours, zero
> dollars.
>
> 2] This will be a voltmeter - ammeters have almost never been fitted with
> alternators, for reasons I won't go into here. Ammeters are distinguished
> in this application by having a positive and negative scale with zero at
> the centre.
>
> JD

Getting back on topic! ....

Do you get full brightness on the warning light before you turn the
engine?

It might be worth checking the connections especially the one from the
ignition switch via the warning light to the alternator field coils.
Ignition switches have been known to develop high resistance
connections in this circuit - does waggling the key around make any
difference?

If you have a means of measuring the alternator output (i.e. seeing
that there is some life) you could run a jump lead directly from the
battery (assuming it has something left in it) to the alternator
terminal that goes to the ignition warning light and see is that makes
any difference. Don't leave it connected - there should be a permanent
drain through the field coils. If there is no drastic change in output
(don't bother looking at the warning light, it's bypassed!) you're
probably looking at the alternator and repair is frequently cheap.
Otherwise, look at the warning light circuit.



 

"Greg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "JD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>> Yes, they do exist, but very rare - problem is that with an ammeter the
>> entire current has to flow through the meter unless you use a remote
> shunt.
>> When alternators were introduced, the current they produced increased
>> compared to generators, and faced with heavier wire up behind the dash or
> a
>> remote shunt, most manufacturers either used no gauge at all or a
>> voltmeter. Of course, some owners fitted their own anyway.
>
> This is something I've been puzzled about since I got my SIII 109, it has
> an
> ammeter fitted to the centre of the three meter holes and three lengths of
> what looks like original, heavy gauge, wire connected to it but these have
> been chopped off after a few feet. There's no obvious sign of where they
> went either. An ammeter doesn't appear on any of the wiring diagrams I can
> find except for a FFR but I'm told this has always been a civilian, and
> it's
> presently 12V. So does anyone have an idea what might have happened?. Just
> to add to the confusion there is a plate on the driver's side of the seat
> box that shows the wiring for 24V batteries, I suspect the seat box has
> been
> taken from an FFR donor vehicle as I have pictures during a previous
> restoration that don't show the plate.
>
> Greg
>

It was available as a factory option Ammeter Kit #607696 (or 607734 if
supplied with other electrical extras), includes gauge wiring loom 2
bracket s washers and fitting screws and bolts. an oil pressure gauge was
also listed. I knew that download of the Factory Options Series Land Rover
would be useful.
Derek


 

"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On or around Sat, 09 Sep 2006 23:54:34 GMT, "Derek"
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>>I found a supplier for Alternator brushes at any rate
>>http://www.mike.munro.cwc.net/off_road/l_rover/elec.htm wonder if Kato
>>has
>>an 11AC ?
>
> possible but unlikely these days. remind us what motor...
>
> 11AC is an early alternator with external (separate) regulator. Most
> alternators now have the brushes built into the regulator unit which is
> often sealed. Bosch ones, the regulator screws onto the back end of the
> alternator. Lucas ACR ones have it under the black cover, for example.
>
>
> --
> Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
> "You praise the firm restraint with which they write -_
> I'm with you there, of course: They use the snaffle and the bit
> alright, but where's the bloody horse? - Roy Campbell (1902-1957)

I checked the catalogue which doesn't help just gives a part number STC233
the unit has no markings visible except the legend 90 in felt tip so looks
like a replacement.No plastic housing but a metal plate shielding the
terminals and if I'm not mistaken the diode pack and brush unit.Original
fitting according to the WSM is a Magnetti Morelli A127-65 which oddly
looks more or less the same and which appears to be a parts bin special
fitted to rover 214/414 and god knows what else so thats a cheap source of a
replacement (my replacement digital clock cost £4 INC post off a 214 rather
than £25 off a Disco) not a problem as it seems healthy enough tho'
Derek


 
On Sun, 10 Sep 2006 18:27:11 +0100, Derek
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
> "Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On or around Sat, 09 Sep 2006 23:54:34 GMT, "Derek"
>> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>>
>>> I found a supplier for Alternator brushes at any rate
>>> http://www.mike.munro.cwc.net/off_road/l_rover/elec.htm wonder if Kato
>>> has
>>> an 11AC ?
>>
>> possible but unlikely these days. remind us what motor...
>>
>> 11AC is an early alternator with external (separate) regulator. Most
>> alternators now have the brushes built into the regulator unit which is
>> often sealed. Bosch ones, the regulator screws onto the back end of the
>> alternator. Lucas ACR ones have it under the black cover, for example.
>
> I checked the catalogue which doesn't help just gives a part number
> STC233
> the unit has no markings visible except the legend 90 in felt tip so
> looks
> like a replacement.No plastic housing but a metal plate shielding the
> terminals and if I'm not mistaken the diode pack and brush unit.Original
> fitting according to the WSM is a Magnetti Morelli A127-65 which oddly
> looks more or less the same and which appears to be a parts bin special
> fitted to rover 214/414 and god knows what else so thats a cheap source
> of a
> replacement ...

Yes - took the unit off the 110 today.

It is clearly marked Magneti Marelli A127/45 - guess that's a 45 AMP unit
(which doesn't seem big enough to me). Anyone know the significance of
the Type # (A127)?

Unit/loom has one three-way connector. Two h/duty brown wires and one
much thinner brown/yellow.

Now then, the metal plate you speak of - appears to be held in place with
bolts that are cunningly sized at or near the mid point between my 5mm and
6mm sockets. WTF does one get 5.5mm hex sockets - any drive?

Found a likely looking alternator lurking in the garage - has external
black boxes bolted to the case, one connects by lead to a spade, the other
is flying loose - rf suppressors? Unfortunately this unit looks to be the
cack-handed version IYSWIM - the hinge bolts are the right dimensions but
the stabilising/locking bar won't connect. Might get me round the block,
but I wouldn't want to go far on that set up.

Anyroad, working on the hypothesis that this is a repairable fault then
getting the cover off the original is the next task. Clues for acquiring
the necessary socket/spanner appreciated.

Otherwise I may be joining Derek at the scrappy.
--
William Tasso

Land Rover - 110 V8
Discovery - V8
 

"William Tasso" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:eek:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 10 Sep 2006 18:27:11 +0100, Derek
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>> "Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> On or around Sat, 09 Sep 2006 23:54:34 GMT, "Derek"
>>> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>>>
>>>> I found a supplier for Alternator brushes at any rate
>>>> http://www.mike.munro.cwc.net/off_road/l_rover/elec.htm wonder if Kato
>>>> has
>>>> an 11AC ?
>>>
>>> possible but unlikely these days. remind us what motor...
>>>
>>> 11AC is an early alternator with external (separate) regulator. Most
>>> alternators now have the brushes built into the regulator unit which is
>>> often sealed. Bosch ones, the regulator screws onto the back end of the
>>> alternator. Lucas ACR ones have it under the black cover, for example.
>>
>> I checked the catalogue which doesn't help just gives a part number
>> STC233
>> the unit has no markings visible except the legend 90 in felt tip so
>> looks
>> like a replacement.No plastic housing but a metal plate shielding the
>> terminals and if I'm not mistaken the diode pack and brush unit.Original
>> fitting according to the WSM is a Magnetti Morelli A127-65 which oddly
>> looks more or less the same and which appears to be a parts bin special
>> fitted to rover 214/414 and god knows what else so thats a cheap source
>> of a
>> replacement ...
>
> Yes - took the unit off the 110 today.
>
> It is clearly marked Magneti Marelli A127/45 - guess that's a 45 AMP unit
> (which doesn't seem big enough to me). Anyone know the significance of
> the Type # (A127)?
>
> Unit/loom has one three-way connector. Two h/duty brown wires and one
> much thinner brown/yellow.
>
> Now then, the metal plate you speak of - appears to be held in place with
> bolts that are cunningly sized at or near the mid point between my 5mm and
> 6mm sockets. WTF does one get 5.5mm hex sockets - any drive?
>
> Found a likely looking alternator lurking in the garage - has external
> black boxes bolted to the case, one connects by lead to a spade, the other
> is flying loose - rf suppressors? Unfortunately this unit looks to be the
> cack-handed version IYSWIM - the hinge bolts are the right dimensions but
> the stabilising/locking bar won't connect. Might get me round the block,
> but I wouldn't want to go far on that set up.
>
> Anyroad, working on the hypothesis that this is a repairable fault then
> getting the cover off the original is the next task. Clues for acquiring
> the necessary socket/spanner appreciated.
>
> Otherwise I may be joining Derek at the scrappy.
> --
> William Tasso
>
> Land Rover - 110 V8
> Discovery - V8

I have 5.5s out of an old Hilka 1/4 drive socket set 1/5" isn't a common
size either but 7/32" is close enough on a true hex socket.I hesitate to
suggest Halfrauds but they do sell single sockets unless you are nearby
Manchester
Derek


 
William Tasso wrote:

>
> Now then, the metal plate you speak of - appears to be held in place
> with bolts that are cunningly sized at or near the mid point between my
> 5mm and 6mm sockets. WTF does one get 5.5mm hex sockets - any drive?
>
> Found a likely looking alternator lurking in the garage - has external
> black boxes bolted to the case, one connects by lead to a spade, the
> other is flying loose - rf suppressors? Unfortunately this unit looks
> to be the cack-handed version IYSWIM - the hinge bolts are the right
> dimensions but the stabilising/locking bar won't connect. Might get me
> round the block, but I wouldn't want to go far on that set up.
>
> Anyroad, working on the hypothesis that this is a repairable fault then
> getting the cover off the original is the next task. Clues for
> acquiring the necessary socket/spanner appreciated.
>
> Otherwise I may be joining Derek at the scrappy.
> --William Tasso
>
> Land Rover - 110 V8
> Discovery - V8
I'd be trying a BA socket or imperial - they often fall conveniently into the
gaps of small metric sizes - I'm sure you'd have a 1/4" drive socket set
somewhere, William?

I find my BA sockets & nutrunners very useful for small jobs like that - I use
them more often than my small Torx drivers.

Cack-handed alternators are normally very simple to convert - drill out the
thread on the adjuster, undo the three mounting screws & rotate the front till
the newly drilled hole is lined up with the other mounting screw - voila, a
right handed mount where it used to be left handed.

--
Karen

"Sometimes I think I have a Guardian Idiot - a little invisible spirit just
behind my shoulder, looking out for me ... only he's an imbecile" - Jake Stonebender
 
On or around Mon, 11 Sep 2006 00:04:39 +0100, "William Tasso"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>
>Found a likely looking alternator lurking in the garage - has external
>black boxes bolted to the case, one connects by lead to a spade, the other
>is flying loose - rf suppressors? Unfortunately this unit looks to be the
>cack-handed version IYSWIM - the hinge bolts are the right dimensions but
>the stabilising/locking bar won't connect. Might get me round the block,
>but I wouldn't want to go far on that set up.

check how many bolts hold the 2 ends of the case together. If it's a 3-bolt
one then it can be rotated - undo the 3 bolts and turn the one end wrt the
other. You'll need to drill out the thread in the adjuster bar bolt hole
and use a nut and bolt.

if it's a 4-bolt one (bosch ones seem to be, mostly) then this doesn't work.

You can also convert from 3-blade system - the 2 fat browns go to the output
terminal on a bolt-type and the skinny brown-and-yellow goes to... erm... B+
I think. usually a smaller botl terminal or sometimes a single 1/4" spade.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Appearances: You don't really need make-up. Celebrate your authentic
face by frightening people in the street.
from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton.
 

"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On or around Mon, 11 Sep 2006 00:04:39 +0100, "William Tasso"
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
> >
> >Found a likely looking alternator lurking in the garage - has external
> >black boxes bolted to the case, one connects by lead to a spade, the
other
> >is flying loose - rf suppressors? Unfortunately this unit looks to be
the
> >cack-handed version IYSWIM - the hinge bolts are the right dimensions but
> >the stabilising/locking bar won't connect. Might get me round the block,
> >but I wouldn't want to go far on that set up.
>
> check how many bolts hold the 2 ends of the case together. If it's a
3-bolt
> one then it can be rotated - undo the 3 bolts and turn the one end wrt the
> other. You'll need to drill out the thread in the adjuster bar bolt hole
> and use a nut and bolt.
>
> if it's a 4-bolt one (bosch ones seem to be, mostly) then this doesn't
work.
>
> You can also convert from 3-blade system - the 2 fat browns go to the
output

Which is probably labelled B+ (meaning battery positive and will be the
large one)

> terminal on a bolt-type and the skinny brown-and-yellow goes to... erm...
B+

'Skinny brown-and-yellow' will go to terminal probably marked F (field)
or W/L (warning lamp)

> I think. usually a smaller botl terminal or sometimes a single 1/4"
spade.
> --
> Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
> Appearances: You don't really need make-up. Celebrate your authentic
> face by frightening people in the street.
> from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton.


 
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