Testing fuel pump and circuits

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Nino1

Member
Posts
12
Location
Poole dorset
Freelander 1 i bought just kept turning over.
Remember iheard a loud buzzing noisefrom the rear and assumed it was a fuel pump problem.
Located pump disconnected and bought inside. Tested with 12 v working.
Also tested the little electrical pump with12v and that worked.
Stumped to know what that is.
The electrical connection for the little pump had 1 v when ignition on.
Stuck to know what to do next.
Any help would be much appreciated!!
 
The fuel pump should be almost silent. Noise suggests it's faulty.
The small pump is for the fuel burning heater, and won't affect the engine starting.

You need to look at the live engine data on a diagnostic reader, to check the pressure of the low pressure fuel pump. It needs to output more than 280kpa, or the engine won't start, but it really needs to be over 350kpa at full power, or performance will be restricted.
 
Nodge68 said:
The fuel pump should be almost silent. Noise suggests it's faulty.
The small pump is for the fuel burning heater, and won't affect the engine starting.

You need to look at the live engine data on a diagnostic reader, to check the pressure of the low pressure fuel pump. It needs to output more than 280kpa, or the engine won't start, but it really needs to be over 350kpa at full power, or performance will be restricted.[/QUOTE
Nodge68 said:
The fuel pump should be almost silent. Noise suggests it's faulty.
The small pump is for the fuel burning heater, and won't affect the engine starting.

You need to look at the live engine data on a diagnostic reader, to check the pressure of the low pressure fuel pump. It needs to output more than 280kpa, or the engine won't start, but it really needs to be over 350kpa at full power, or performance will be restricted.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
Nino1 said:
Should i have voltage with ignition on at fuel pump? Or does is start on crank up?
Click to expand...

You should see battery voltage at the fuel pump (the large one) for 30 seconds after the ignition is first turned on, then power is cut, until you crank the engine.
 
Nino1 said:
Thanks m8
Still trying to rule out electrical problem before i go further
Click to expand...
It's more likely to be the fuel pump, rather than an electrical problem. The pumps are problematic, the electrics not so.
Does it unlock the doors if you try to start the engine? If so, then there's an issue with the fuel pump supply, or the impact sensor has tripped. If the locks don't pop, then the fuel pump should have power, and the pump will be dead.
 
Nodge68 said:
It's more likely to be the fuel pump, rather than an electrical problem. The pumps are problematic, the electrics not so.
Does it unlock the doors if you try to start the engine? If so, then there's an issue with the fuel pump supply, or the impact sensor has tripped. If the locks don't pop, then the fuel pump should have power, and the pump will be dead.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks no it doesn't pop the locks.
I checked the safety fuel switch in the engine bay and made sure it was pushed right down.
Going to install new pump tomorrow and fingers crossed
Thanks for your guidance
 
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