Terrafirma Light Load

....Preparing for the onslaught....

Okay so I've tried searching and had little luck.

One of the dampers on my 90 needs replacing and they all seem pretty gone - The ride quality in my 90 vs my dads 90 is quiet different. (He has HD springs with OME dampers). I'd like to try and improve the ride quality with new dampers and springs all round - give it that fresh feel.

I've been looking online and was considering a 2" lift for the little greenlaning I do. I've read reviews on Terrafirma set ups and although mixed, they seem good enough value for my budget. My 90 is pretty standard in terms of weight with only an A-Bar. I don't tow or carry heavy loads.

My question is, has anyone got light load terrafirma 2" such as this:

TERRAFIRMA SPRINGS & SHOCKS +2" LIFT SUSPENSION KIT DEFENDER 90 TF201 | eBay

And if so how does it perform/feel/sit?

Just had the medium 2" lift done and the ride ect is great , mine does not have a winch but the medium gives one the option .

Yes I fitted that exact kit on my 90. Problem is that the springs give a 50mm lift alright and that causes all sorts of issues with drive train judder and bushes. In addition the Landy wollowed in corners much more and the steering became vague even though I had it all aligned when it fitted the kit. It just didn't feel safe so I took the springs off after about a month and replaced them with standard height OEM springs (only cost £60 for the lot!) and I wish that I had done that in the first place!

Basically the old springs had done 115k miles and were shot and so were the old dampers. By replacing the springs with OEM springs and fitting the new Terrafirma dampers the car now rides much better.

You will read a lot of threads on here about suspension but take my word for it. Save yourself some money and fit standard height springs OEM or Genuine - up to you and fit new dampers Afrer market / OEM or Genuine up to you!

I have a set of Terrafirma lit duty springs for sale if you want them by they way but I bet I have just talked myself out of a sale!

Scrawf

I have the medium duty +2s on my 90 for about 3 years, they seem fine if a little firm on the rear end, but the 90 is very light because it's only got 2 seats and no roof/spare wheel etc

I am waiting until I've got a winch and a roll cage fitted, but may then change to softer springs. It also sits about 2cm higher on the back end, although that could change with the cage etc.

As Scrawf said, lifting the vehicle can bring all sorts of problems for prop ujs and steering self-centreing, unless you are lifting it to gain clearance for larger tyres, then it may be best to stick to standard height springs combined with good quality dampers.

The springs are most probably less progressive and give more movement, if its a daily ide use OEM springs, if its a off road toy.. go for it, road handling isnt what you need.

Great, thanks for the replies - definitely some food for thought. I'll take a look round at some prices and see what standard height options there are.

I must admit, my understanding was that a 2inch lift was achievable with no further modifications to drive train, trailing arms etc.

to be honest, if you want a lift, get the new + shocks or -shock mounts and spring spacers if its just the looks or space you want

I like the look of the slightly lifted defenders, but its more the fact that I need to replace the shocks and think that after 150,000 miles, the springs are probably past their best too. The ride quality is poor, even for a defender!

When looking online at various "kits" the terrafirma ones seemed to be decent value and most offer the 2inch lift - which is why I was considering it.

if its just a replacements your after, oem springs are good and cheapest! shocks, well standard are good, you could get some better ones like old man emu.

rimmer bro's are good for parts.
Land Rover 90-110 & Defender Suspension at www.rimmerbros.co.uk

Stulios said:

Great, thanks for the replies - definitely some food for thought. I'll take a look round at some prices and see what standard height options there are.

I must admit, my understanding was that a 2inch lift was achievable with no further modifications to drive train, trailing arms etc.

Click to expand...

General rule of thumb is that castor correction isn't required for a 2 inch lift, but some people finds it helps with the steering self-centreing/prop vibration gubbins. Any lift will cause the prop UJs to run at a steeper angle, increasing rate of wear.

Boris113 said:

General rule of thumb is that castor correction isn't required for a 2 inch lift, but some people finds it helps with the steering self-centreing/prop vibration gubbins. Any lift will cause the prop UJs to run at a steeper angle, increasing rate of wear.

Click to expand...

Yeah that's right you increase the angle on the props which causes the UJ to run ellipticaly increasing wear and causing judder in the drive train. Apparently some Landys don't suffer from it but mine did. 42 mph and the drive train shook like a jelly causing vibrations right through the vehicle!

If you get this you need castor correction front arms! Check the price of those babys! You really need to fit a double carden prop shaft. Again check the price! Really you should replace all the old bushes. It's aright pain if you don't have a press and very big spanners. And you really should fit castor corrected trailing arms! So you probably end up spending a grand more than you bargained for.

It will still be just as good off road with standard height springs trust me. Spend some money on some mud terrain tyres instead!

Scrawf

The props are designed to be able to work at full droop so it will work with only 2 inchest droop. The caster correction front radius arms are not required unless you don't like the lack of return to center.. which can also be cured by a return to centre damper.
As far as im aware the only landy with rear radius arms is the Disco 2 and possibly the P38, if doesn't have the radius arms on the back it needs no corection. But if you strugle getting full articulation from your shocks its probably because the chassis trailing arm bush is maxed out, which can be cured by cranked trailing arms or jointed arms.