Td5 wont start

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Markwilliamson37

New Member
Posts
27
Wondered if any of you could help with suggestions about the following problem?
There were signs of oil adjacent to the ecu so I replaced the injector harness. A few days later while driving a warning light (the one that looks like an outline of an engine in amber) came on. I had a look with a nanocom for faults and there were three logged - two stated 'egr stuck open' and one 'high speed crank'. The engine appeared to be running fine and the only other symptom was occasionally the engine took longer to start when warm and took 8-10 seconds before firing. The warning light didn't come on again.
Today she wont start at all and just turns without firing.
The egr had been removed and a blanking plate fitted approx 6 months ago. I've done a search but can't find anything to help. If anyone has encountered something similar or has any ideas about where to start looking I would really appreciate the help, cheers, Mark
 
EGR removal wont stop the engine firing. The ECU has registered a fault because you left the EGR solenoid connected. Disconnect the wiring plug to the EGR solenoid and forget it.
If you had traces of oil around the ECU plugs and sockets then chances are that the remaining oil in the ECU wiring harness has wicked its way down into the ECU. You need to thouroughly clean the connectors. Strip off about two inches of the wiring harness outer insulation at the connectors and clean the wires of oil to stop any more finding its way into the ECU connectors. Dont tape it back up but leave the wires exposed.
You may have to take the cover off the ECU and carefully clean inside as well if the oil has penetrated into the casing. You do this at your own risk but so long as you are careful its not a big job.
Other than that it may be your key fob playing up and not disabling the immobiliser.
If you have a second fob try that.
 
Thanks for the tips Shifty, I'll start by cleaning the loom & see what happens.
Strangely enough I've just bought a fob to activate the alarm although I haven't programmed it yet - I wonder if there is anyway the immobiliser can activate itself in error?
I'll post my results incase anyone else encounters the same trouble, Mark
 
OK - been searching posts for anything relevant & come up with the following alternatives:
Oil in wiring loom/ecu
Needs new fuel filter housing
Ecu not getting good earth
Crankshaft position sensor
Relays under passenger seat
Following advise in one of the posts I've just been out & let the fuel pump run for 10 seconds, turned ignition off then back on & let run for another 10 seconds then cranked the engine. Fired on first turn! Sweet!
But does this help to point at the underlying problem? Can I narrow the possibles down?
If anyones got any thoughts I'd appreciate it, Mark
 
Quick update on progress.
Removed some extra insulation from the loom before the ecu socket. Checked out the oil situation - quite a lot present in the connector so cleaned it up. Still wouldn't start.
Nanocom registers rpm when engine cranked from battery so ignored the sensor for moment.
Checked fuses & relays. Noticeable fast clicking from brown and/or green relay below dash during cranking. Pushed brown relay and engine suddenly sprang to life & ran smoothly. Checked connections on relay which showed some discolouration so cleaned them and replaced. Tried to start again. Engine dead as a dodo again! No firing, just spinning!
Here we go again ..............
 
sounds like the problem i had till last week, after a lot of head scratching and kicking it, it turned out to be the crank sensor. they are £51 from land rover
 
Thanks for all your help & replies. I replaced the cps (the old one did look worse for wear upon inspection) and she started first time. Cleared the faults & nothing has registered to date.
Also degreased the ecu, quite a bit of oil starting to seep in & cleaned up the connectors.
Once again, thanks for your time replying, cheers, Mark
 
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