TD5 turbo lag

When l change up at 2-2500rpm on my 110 TD5 the thrust “dies” and takes a second or two for the turbo to spool up again (l assume it’s that)

it’s particularly noticeable on hills, and l need to change up nearer 3,000 rpm to avoid it happening.
The 110 is running a fairly mild Dynachip remap, about 30bhp

l just bought a 90 TD5 and the “response” is a lot better, changing up at 2-2500 rpm and the power is back on almost immediately.

It’s a standard TD5 with the CAT in place and not remapped, of course my 110 is faster when it gets going but,

Why would the turbo respond faster than on the 110?
Both are 2005 year and have done similar mileage around 100,000.

ls there anything l can do to improve the response time of my 110 turbo, what about adjusting the waste gate actuator a little, say a couple threads shorter.
Would that make it respond quicker?

No as that only works at max boost, but thats not to say the wastegate isnt sticking as the shaft can seize where it passes through the turbo body itself and this used to be a td5 thing.

Hi my cousin had a dynachip remap d2 and it drove how you described... Maybe unplug the maf first or failing that see if you can try another map, or swap the ecus between youre 2 landys

Hmmm l was going to get Dynachip in to remap the 90 but l may delay it for now.

The 110 certainly runs OK and the turbo comes in around 1500rpm.

The MAF unit has been replaced with an OE one.

Trying another remap is a good idea in theory, but it’s going to cost me £300+ to get that done.

Is it possible to just swap the ECU’s over? Will it work if l use the remote that goes with the ECU.

lightning said:

Hmmm l was going to get Dynachip in to remap the 90 but l may delay it for now.

The 110 certainly runs OK and the turbo comes in around 1500rpm.

The MAF unit has been replaced with an OE one.

Trying another remap is a good idea in theory, but it’s going to cost me £300+ to get that done.

Is it possible to just swap the ECU’s over? Will it work if l use the remote that goes with the ECU.

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I recall my tuned td5 going as flat as a fart and I traced it to the map sensor going out of range, easy to change two small bolts, not expensive either.
You could certainly swap the sensors over with no issues and the maf as well just to eliminate it.

Dont know ref the ecus, but I thought that was one way they nicked them?

Changing over the ECU is straightforward enough but you will need to use a diagnostic tool to get the 10AS alarm unit talking to the Ecu and the injector codes changed.
It would be interesting to see your findings with the swop but remember the 110 is much heavier than the 90 and is the gearing the same on both of your vehicles and tyres make a difference. Again it will be of interest to see the outcome of the swap.

lightning said:

The MAF unit has been replaced with an OE one.

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Your 2005 model is probably a 15p and highly dependent on the quality of the output from the MAF. Even Siemens VDO OE ones can be a bit variable, even when new. You might try unplugging it to see if it removes the flat spot when running on the default data. If it does you may want to bite the bullet and buy a genuine LR branded one as despite also being made by Siemens, they seem to be better quality and more reliable (but much more expensive) than Siemens OE branded.

This is good information about MAF sensors and the 15p engine how do we know it is correct. It could explain a number of issues relating to the 15p.

I took the Cat off my td5 90, and you can feel the difference immediately,.
Last year I put it back for the MOT and you feel the a big change.
I think mine is sooted up and I've wondered if it could be cleaned, I thought of hanging it up and put a propane torch in the bottom end for a while to see if the soot could be encouraged to burn.

raywin said:

I took the Cat off my td5 90, and you can feel the difference immediately,.
Last year I put it back for the MOT and you feel the a big change.
I think mine is sooted up and I've wondered if it could be cleaned, I thought of hanging it up and put a propane torch in the bottom end for a while to see if the soot could be encouraged to burn.

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Google cleaning DOC cat

The 110 did have a decat pipe fitted, it was actually a pre 2002 Land Rover front pipe.

l fitted it to try and cure the lag when changing gear, but it made no noticeable difference

So
The CAT front pipe went back on, needed it for the MOT anyway

As mentioned the maf sensor really should be a genuine unit, the Siemens one is ok, but not brilliant, I wouldn’t use dynachip for you’re new defender, storm tuning and empire are about the best around

This is good information about MAF sensors and the 15p engine how do we know it is correct. It could explain a number of issues relating to the 15p.

Sierrrafery has done a considerable amount of research into this. There are various threads on the topic. Here is one.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/what-maf-sensor-is-this.340066/#post-4442986

Thanks for the ideas, l will start with an OE MAF unit and see how it goes from there.

lightning said:

Thanks for the ideas, l will start with an OE MAF unit and see how it goes from there.

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Let us know how it goes.

lightning said:

Thanks for the ideas, l will start with an OE MAF unit and see how it goes from there.

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Swap over the one from your wife's first it may save you some cash.

Good idea! So long as it’s an OE unit and not a replacement.
I will take a look later.

lightning said:

Good idea! So long as it’s an OE unit and not a replacement.
I will take a look later.

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Don't worry if it's LR origonal or not you know it is good because that's what you are comparing your 110 against, you said the 90 drove better and suspected the MAF on your 110 so go ahead swop them see if yours drives better and the 90 is poor. If you just swop out a fresh new LR jobie and no improvement you will walk away saying it must be something else. Just because the one out of the box is a NEW LR PART is no guarantee it is a good one (I have received enough new LR duff parts to be extra careful). Again you would be making a comparison with a known GOOD part.

Dont forget MAP and MAF are two different things?

I fitted a new OE MAF unit (£130) and it’s made no difference.
At least now l know what it isn’t.

But the MAF unit can go in the missus’s 90 as the garage said it came up with a MAF error while they were trying to figure out the poor starting.