Disco 2 What MAF sensor is this?

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Michalis Karatzis

Michalis Karatzis

Active Member
Posts
189
Location
Cyprus
As the title says, what sensor do I currently have?

No issues really but if it's the crap one why not change it to the original one?

20190103_125710.jpg
 
What's certain is that it's not the dedicated one cos that should have 5WK9607Z or MHK100620 stamped on it, it might be some cross interchange part which fits but dedicated for other vehicle
 
Definitely replace it if it's Eu3 engine, if it's Eu2 with EGR bypassed and the engine runs well with normal consumption you might leave it there though if the EGR is still fitted better put a MHK100620 genuine regardless of what engine it is

as test unplug it and take a ride that way and if you feel any improvement then replace it ASAP
 
Disconnected works better I think. Feels smoother and upshifts take place at lower revs. Roughness at a specific range of the revs is gone and acceleration is better. And all this without even warming up, in the first 5 miles!

Will it be even better with the original MAF? Why didn't I check this a year ago!?!
 
With a genuine LR MAF should be better than on MAF open circuit default that's for sure while on default is better than with a sh*tty MAF which gives erratic readings
 
Last edited:
Michalis Karatzis said:
Way too expensive here in Cyprus compare to online
Click to expand...
IMO it's not about Cyprus or any other country, the Genuine LR items should be cheaper at main dealers than online cos genuine items are distribuited by them to shops so if online seems cheaper it means it's not genuine but some kind'a scam, if Lr direct is a bit strange in this area(even though i consider them the best suppliers), get one from here https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product....1_8_p___defender___discovery_2___freelander_1 or here https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-MHK100620
 
sierrafery said:
Definitely replace it if it's Eu3 engine, if it's Eu2 with EGR bypassed and the engine runs well with normal consumption you might leave it there though if the EGR is still fitted better put a MHK100620 genuine regardless of what engine it is
Click to expand...

That's an interesting twist. I assume the ECU in the 10p uses the MAF info slightly differently. The live data output from the MAFs on my son and my non-EGR 10p TD5s seem fine and consistent, but they are aftermarket versions and following your previous post I was stealing myself to stump up for an LR branded one. Am I right in thinking this may not be of any real benefit?
 
Si Click said:
That's an interesting twist. I assume the ECU in the 10p uses the MAF info slightly differently. The live data output from the MAFs on my son and my non-EGR 10p TD5s seem fine and consistent, but they are aftermarket versions and following your previous post I was stealing myself to stump up for an LR branded one. Am I right in thinking this may not be of any real benefit?
Click to expand...

My car is a 10p de-EGR and disconnecting the unknown MAF made a noticeable difference. I can't wait to receive the original MAF and refit the wastegate modulator and see how better it will be. I am also concidering changing the actuator too as it doesn't look original or in good condition (thread is damaged and I don't think I can do any adjustments).
 
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