Td5 Spotlights (Apologies know it has been done before)

I know this has been done before but I cannot find the level of details I am looking for in previous posts.

I am going to be fitting a set of led flood lights on the bullbar and a pair of rear work lights. I am happy with the principal of using relays and building the circuit up to wire these in. I am planning on using land rover relays (keeps things consistent) and mounting them under the drivers seat where the other relays are mounted. can anyone confirm this connector/relay base (link) will fit and mount correctly to the existing holders and work with a land rover yellow relay?

I am planning on using these switches (link1, link2) and connector (link), do these definitely fit in the td5 dash? Also why are there 4 inputs on the switch, the descriptions are poor and do not publish a wiring diagram. I am guessing there is an input, output, and earth (assume there is an illuminated marker when switched on). Is the fourth a headlight illumination?

For both sets of lights I am planning on taking a permanent live feed from the dash through each switch to each relay. I will then also take reverse feed and a main beam feed direct to each relay. This should give me an "automatically" on and an on with the switch. Does that make sense and will that work?
How much would the above method effect the other circuit if they are joined at the relay input? I do not want to be in a position where the headlights turn on or the reversing light turn on when I activate the switch and put a permanent live feed to the relay.

I am happy with where to take the reversing/rear work lights feed from the reversing light switch but need to find a permanent live in the dash for the dash switch (will also need this for the bullbars). Where in the dash center will I find a permanent live, what colour would it be? I do not have a radio fitted yet but plan on fitting one in the future and will need on for that as well!

I will also need a main beam feed. Where behind the dash is best to take this from? On my tdi the previous had scotch locked the warning light for the feed I do not want to use this method this and want to avoid cutting the loom if at all possible.

Based on my question regarding the switch above, I am happy to create earths, but would need an illumination feed, where would I find this?

I have not yet taken the dash apart to have a look at things but are the wiring looms standard for all models? I have lots of blanks in my dash (base model, as mentioned not even a radio) are other accessories prewired (e.g. windows, radio etc) and I can pick up feeds from these?

For it to work they way you want you really need a three way switch,
I wanted to use orginal switches, like you so i just flick myne on manually, did not want a three way switch and could not be bothered with negative switching and two realys per set of lights.....

see wiring diagram for three way switching.

You can just tap illumination feed from any of the other dash switches....

Take your perm feeds from behind the centre console fuse box.......take that feed to rear of a vacant fuse, fit the female pins, that way you have a fuse for each set of lights on the swtich side, and in the same place as all the other fuses.....

PS the switch you are thinking of buying will require a little file down on the side depending which hole you are planning to fit it too ...see the two ribs towards the back of the switch, the corrospond to the TD5 centre console holes, each switch has them at different heights, i decided to move my switches around a bit so had to file a few down to fit in the wrong holes so can reach my light bar easily etc, see bottom of page here : page-29

KISSMYAURA said:

For it to work they way you want you really need a three way switch,
I wanted to use orginal switches, like you so i just flick myne on manually, did not want a three way switch and could not be bothered with negative switching and two realys per set of lights.....

see wiring diagram for three way switching.

You can just tap illumination feed from any of the other dash switches....

Take your perm feeds from behind the centre console fuse box.......take that feed to rear of a vacant fuse, fit the female pins, that way you have a fuse for each set of lights on the swtich side, and in the same place as all the other fuses.....

PS the switch you are thinking of buying will require a little file down on the side depending which hole you are planning to fit it too ...see the two ribs towards the back of the switch, the corrospond to the TD5 centre console holes, each switch has them at different heights, i decided to move my switches around a bit so had to file a few down to fit in the wrong holes so can reach my light bar easily etc, see bottom of page here : page-29
View attachment 252306
View attachment 252303 View attachment 252304

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Thank you. the three way switch requirement was what I was worried about. I have three way switches in my 110 for them but they are basic toggle switches, getting three way switches in the original button style does not seem to be possible. You mention two relays which I had considered, one relay activated by the highbeam/reverse feed, and a separate relay activated by the dash switch. Would that work on its own, how is the negative switching you mention required?

The information regarding fitting was useful and glad to see they will fit even if they do require some slight modification. I will get the switches ordered

What year and model determines the wiring and switches fitted depending on whether the part bins ran out

mystery said:

What year and model determines the wiring and switches fitted depending on whether the part bins ran out

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54 plate td5 90. Base model hardtop, did not even come with a radio.

View attachment 252375 THE SWITCH CONNECTIONS View attachment 252350

mystery said:

View attachment 252375 THE SWITCH CONNECTIONS View attachment 252350 View attachment 252352 View attachment 252353

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Thank you for the diagrams but that looks like it gives you the option of "off" or "on with main beam". I am looking to try and get the options of "on" or "on with main beam". I know I could achieve this with two sets of relays which is the route I will go down if needed.

I am assuming if I wire the switch with pin 1 being a permanent live and pin 5 being a feed to the relay it will work as a positive switch to activate the relay and still illuminate when switch to show it is on?

WILL NOT WORK UNLESS YOU SHORT THE LED OUT 5 FEEDS LED ON INDICATOR SWITCH 1 CAN ONLY BE A GROUND AS ANDY WARRENS SHOWS

I believe when I fitted mine spots are only allowed to operate on main beam l used the wiring loom from land rover comes complete with all you need easy to install

If you go via two relays you will need diodes to stop flow back, if your HB back flows through the switch it could fry the switch.
No relays for LB or HB on defender hence why the light stalk has such hefty wires etc.

Also you may have issue with your MOT if you have portable daylight coming out each end wtith HB and RL especially when they test reverse, reverse lights are cannot be confused with headlights, else they think you on wrong side of road coming head on lol, i fitted additional reverse lights so not really work lights, see link above on my last, the reverse lights are further backs somewhere back in my build thread.
All of the above is why my HB and rear work lights are just manual........and why i moved my switch positions around....

KISSMYAURA said:

If you go via two relays you will need diodes to stop flow back, if your HB back flows through the switch it could fry the switch.
No relays for LB or HB on defender hence why the light stalk has such hefty wires etc.

Also you may have issue with your MOT if you have portable daylight coming out each end wtith HB and RL especially when they test reverse, reverse lights are cannot be confused with headlights, else they think you on wrong side of road coming head on lol, i fitted additional reverse lights so not really work lights, see link above on my last, the reverse lights are further backs somewhere back in my build thread.
All of the above is why my HB and rear work lights are just manual........and why i moved my switch positions around....
View attachment 252393 View attachment 252394

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Did you wire your switches in as an earth switch then for you manual switching of your lights?

I am planning on having the revers lights roof mounted so they are not going to be confused as headlights.

I am basically tying to achive this:



but I do not want the main beam to come on when the override switch for the spotlights is activated (is that what the diode is for) and I want to use original dash switches so that it matches the rest of the dash.

If what I have drawn above will not work I will change my question to how will it work? I do not want to manaually put front spots on as it means when driving and faced with oncoming traffic you have two things to turn off.

@mystery Is this how it would work with the negative switches relay for the dash switch and a positive switches ralay for main beam feed? (obviously all of the 12v feeds would be fused)

mystery said:

View attachment 252424

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I am looking for a little more explanation to go with that.

Looking at that wiring diagram the uppermost relay (main beam) has a feed form the main beam to activate it and then an output through the warning light on the switch to the spot lights. However it looks like the relay earths through the switch so they will only turn on with main beam when the switch is activated which is not what I am after. This is the part that is confusing me and why on the diagram I drew this relay has a stand alone earth.

The Middle (manual) relay I understand and has a permeant live feed but the earth running though the switch so when the switch is turned on the earth circuit is complete and the relay activates turning the lights on and illuminating the warning light.

Unless I am mistaken that is the only difference between my crude circuit diagram and your nice one and is what is confusing me.
I would them mirror the same circuit for the work lights with a reverse feed rather than a main beam feed.


vs

the switch has to be activated for the floods to work on main beam or without main beam in manual when the switch is off no floods ,but why are you trying to use the reverse switch for the work lights cannot see the sense of it
they become reverse light and the ability blind the person unlucky enough to be behind you if you override the reverse switch in manual

mystery said:

the switch has to be activated for the floods to work on main beam or without main beam in manual when the switch is off no floods ,but why are you trying to use the reverse switch for the work lights cannot see the sense of it
they become reverse light and the ability blind the person unlucky enough to be behind you if you override the reverse switch in manual

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I am trying to get it to be on with main beam or on with a switch. I do not need an off function.
I am trying to achieve the same with the reverse lights either on with the switch or on with reverse.
On my 110 I have three way switch’s that have those two options and an off function. The off function is never used however. And as I want to use the original switches so no option for three way the off function is the one that I never use on the 110 so is the one I am getting rid of.

Why would you not want the rear light to come On with reverse? The whole point of them is to see where you are going when going backwards (especially with a Trailer). On the 110 they are very rarely actually used as work lights. I was also going to look at swapping the low level reveres for another fog which I have done on the 110. But that is for another day.

On the 110 I also have roof lights and they are the only ones I have ever used the off function of the three way switch when it is foggy and the roof lights just light up the fog over the bonnet. Rear and bumper lights are always on automatically with main/reverse or on with a manual switch.