TD5 Power, Temp and hot air

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richardcannell

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My 2000 TD5 recently loses a bit of water. The heater runs cold unless I keep the revs high and occasionally the power seems to stay flat. When the power stays flat (only for 30 seconds or so), the temp gauge rises from its norm of 50% to just under the red line. There is no sign of water around the oil filler cap. Any thoughts
Thanks
 
Hi,

have you filled it back up and kept an eye on the temp. Mine did this when it was low on water but topped it up. Mine continued to loose water but I could never find the leak, I was starting to think head gasket but it ran fine and only lost the header tank in about 1000 miles. I gave up looking and just topping up the header until I Was changing the front shockers and lifted the header tank and found the spring clip on the bottom hose was allowing a drip to pass. New clip and no more leak and all seems ok temp wise. New shockers made a great differance.

You might be lucky

Regards

Rob:)
 
sounds like one or more of the following. Fooked waterpump, thermostat, or expansion cap.

ANY of the above can cause those symptoms. If you're really unlucky it'll be head gasket but try the above first.

waterpump £25
thermostat £15
radiator/expansion cap £5-£10
 
My TD5 was/is exactly the same.

I checked the coolant level and it was empty! I toppped it right up, left the filler cap off for a while whilst running the engine (to hopefully remove a possible air lock) and all seemed ok for a while.

Afetr a while I noticed the level had dropped a little bit and there were signs of a very small amount of coolant under the radiator so I tipped a can of Radweld in! The level now appears ok again but it doesn't 'feel' like it's the same car, I cant explain it. I hope driving around for 4 days with no coolant (In the snow thankfully) hasn't done some serious damage.

The question i'm left with is, where did ALL the coolant go in the first place!!??
 
broadoakboy said:
My TD5 was/is exactly the same.

I checked the coolant level and it was empty! I toppped it right up, left the filler cap off for a while whilst running the engine (to hopefully remove a possible air lock) and all seemed ok for a while.

Afetr a while I noticed the level had dropped a little bit and there were signs of a very small amount of coolant under the radiator so I tipped a can of Radweld in! The level now appears ok again but it doesn't 'feel' like it's the same car, I cant explain it. I hope driving around for 4 days with no coolant (In the snow thankfully) hasn't done some serious damage.

The question i'm left with is, where did ALL the coolant go in the first place!!??
Click to expand...

there's a bleed screw on the top hose to release any air locks.
 
my new second hand engine is being a bugger to bleed. the rad isnt getting hot and one side of the thermostat has cold pipes as well as the heater only blowing hot rarely. The top hose is full of air and i have been bleeding it for the past 2 hours with driving inbetween but the rads still cold etc.
Thermostat first you reckon?
 
_tc said:
my new second hand engine is being a bugger to bleed. the rad isnt getting hot and one side of the thermostat has cold pipes as well as the heater only blowing hot rarely. The top hose is full of air and i have been bleeding it for the past 2 hours with driving inbetween but the rads still cold etc.
Thermostat first you reckon?
Click to expand...

Did you get a warranty with the engine.:(

Is it the bottom hose that's cold?

Have you tried taking the heater pipes off the heater matrix and filling both the matrix and pipe up. I had problems getting the heater matrix to fill up.

If you're sure it's bled propperly and you are still getting just the odd air bubble coming through it could be that you have a crack in the head on the inlet side. This is what I had with my last head.:mad:
 
no no warrenty with the engine but after reading more on here i feel the waterpump may be up the shoot. I cant get it to bleed properly and only get heat in the top hose. perhaps the water isnet being pushed around. the little return hose to the header tank has a trickle but thats it. no flow felt in the heater pipes so will have to get my wife to rev it for me later so i can feel the pipes.
Temp guage does the normal 1/4 then to halfway but still no heat from heater etc.
 
_tc said:
no no warrenty with the engine but after reading more on here i feel the waterpump may be up the shoot. I cant get it to bleed properly and only get heat in the top hose. perhaps the water isnet being pushed around. the little return hose to the header tank has a trickle but thats it. no flow felt in the heater pipes so will have to get my wife to rev it for me later so i can feel the pipes.
Temp guage does the normal 1/4 then to halfway but still no heat from heater etc.
Click to expand...

For the bypass hose (the angled one on the top of the thermostat) to open the thermostat, the revs have to be in excess of 1500rpm. The thermostat is sucked open by the pressure of the waterpump. If it's only on tickover the coolant won't circulate properly.
 
the heat only comes form the heater when the revs are up and im maintaining it for a while, say joining dual carriageway or driving up a long hill but then soon drop off agin when going down the other side.
 
ok i took the water pump cover off and all looks fine. i have since refilled the cooling system and with the hose pipe i filled the heater matrix etc. very happy with the fill as i had water out of everywhere. anyway. heater blowing warm but pipes pressurising. unless the thermostat is faulty then i think the head gasket is up the shoot.
Anyone here have the torque settings to hand?
I may attack this one myself.
Blooming Land rovers!!
my 300tdi 130 is playing up too.
 
_tc said:
ok i took the water pump cover off and all looks fine. i have since refilled the cooling system and with the hose pipe i filled the heater matrix etc. very happy with the fill as i had water out of everywhere. anyway. heater blowing warm but pipes pressurising. unless the thermostat is faulty then i think the head gasket is up the shoot.
Anyone here have the torque settings to hand?
I may attack this one myself.
Blooming Land rovers!!
my 300tdi 130 is playing up too.
Click to expand...

How hard are the pipes getting? If you can still squeeze em they are ok. If they are rock solid it's sounding bad.
 
_tc said:
ok i took the water pump cover off and all looks fine. i have since refilled the cooling system and with the hose pipe i filled the heater matrix etc. very happy with the fill as i had water out of everywhere. anyway. heater blowing warm but pipes pressurising. unless the thermostat is faulty then i think the head gasket is up the shoot.
Anyone here have the torque settings to hand?
I may attack this one myself.
Blooming Land rovers!!
my 300tdi 130 is playing up too.
Click to expand...
TD5 head is angle tightened.
Stg1 22 lbf/ft
Stg2 48 lbf/ft
Stg3 further 90 degrees
Stg4 further 180 degrees
Stg5 further 45 degrees
Recommended to use new head bolts but I have reused them in the past. Your choice as the old ones may snap. They are designed to stretch as you tighten them then contract when they heat up pulling the head down even tighter.
 
Can anyone guide me through removing the cam chain so i can get the head off please?
I have done head gaskets on the 300 engine but not this one.
Many thanks from a disgruntled Discovery td5 owner.
 
You need to take the camshaft cover off then take the access plug out of the front of the camshaft carrier.
Then you need to lock the flywheel at TDC through the bell housing with a suitable pin.
The timing chain has two coloured links and the arrow on the camshaft sprocket must be between them. If mot you need to wind the engine over until thet do before locking the flywheel.
Undo the camshaft sprocket (3 x 10mm bolts) and rest the chain and sprocket down onto the timing chain guides then the camshaft will lift out and the head will also lift off leaving the timing chain behind.
Dont drop anything down the timing chain casing or try to turn the engine or chain.
When you put it all back the various links and markings on the camshaft must be aligned.
You really need to get hold of a RAVE disc or a workshop manual as there is just too much to detail if you are not familiar with the TD5.
DONT FORGET TO REMOVE THE LOCKING PINS.
Other than that its a piece of ****.
 
bloody ace thank you. i can now go and get oily and hopefully get to the bottom of this bloody problem.
Many thanks
Ed.
 
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