TD5 - Oily Injector Loom

Howdy

I am still having problems with the old chestnut of 'oily injector loom' on my Defender TD5 1999.

I had all the symptoms.....Engine jerking around and stuttering ,and eventually stalling with engine management light coming on.
I bough a new injector loom (Britpart), and sprayed carb. cleaner all over the both sides of the red plug and ECU. I then have been blowing the plug with an air line. I have also sprayed carb. cleaner down the plug that connects the injector loom by the rocker cover.
It all has made a difference, but sporadically, the Landy continues to jerk and stutter.
I wondered if a big dollop of silicone grease on the red plug connectors would stop any oil from entering??

Any suggestions would be appreciated, as everythime I take the Landy out, I don't know If I will get back home!!

Thanks

There has been a dozen threads on this, It is a common issue with the TD5.

read through this little lot:

HERE

Thanks for the response.
I have read through all those threads, and have changed the injector loom etc.etc.

The problem is, I am still having problems. I need to get deeper into this.
Is it ok to use brake cleaner / carb spray inside the ECU??? Probably not I feel.
I now only have a very small amount of oil on the female side of the red plug, it is only really noticeable when I put the air line on it and a very small amount of oil is blown out of the holes.
If the connector plug on the outside of the rocker cover is dry.....does this mean that the new injector loom is working as it should and is sealed??

Could there be any other problems that pose similar symptoms to the oily injector loom that might be confusing things??

Thanks

ive just posted issue with fuel pump - could cause same faults when intermittent. Any abnormal noises at start up?

I'll have a listen tomorrow, and get back to you.
Thanks.

You can carefully break the seal on the ECU cover and clean things out with brake cleaner or switch cleaner. Make sure the ECU is completely dry before closing the lid. Dont touch anything on the circuit board with your fingers and make sure you have earthed yourself to discharge any static electricity from your clothes before starting. Also dont do this with the ECU in situ and connected to the battery. I have done this on at least two occassions with good results but as with all things you do this at your own risk. You can reseal the ECU cover with a smear of silicone but I never bothered as I dont do wading.

Thanks Shifty

Could just a small amount of oil in the ECU be causing my problems??

I can't drive the bloody thing anyway, as a brand new brake master cylinder has just failed!!!

Uphillphil said:

Thanks Shifty

Could just a small amount of oil in the ECU be causing my problems??

Click to expand...

found this have a look and should help you...TD5 Injector loom replacement - Land Rover Technical Archive - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

There was a recall on them and believe I read some where they had a fix/seals to stop it from happening.

Uphillphil said:

Thanks Shifty

Could just a small amount of oil in the ECU be causing my problems??

Click to expand...

The problem will be the damage thats already been done, if your ECU is floating in oil inside then no amount of new looms is going to fix it.

Like shifty said, open the ECU(its 6 screws IIRC) and dry the inside out. Wear an anti-static wrist band. And dab with towel id have said.

Uphillphil said:

I can't drive the bloody thing anyway, as a brand new brake master cylinder has just failed!!!

Click to expand...

Did it come in a blue box with britpart on the side?

Also did your injector loom come in an identical box?

If so id be repairing your old injector loom and getting ready to replace the ****part one because it will break at the least convenient time.

I will crack open the ECU next week (carefully)...
Yes, the replacement was Britpart......Will this cause the same problems??
If I need to get another loom, then what make??

Thanks for your input.

Uphillphil said:

I will crack open the ECU next week (carefully)...
Yes, the replacement was Britpart......Will this cause the same problems??
If I need to get another loom, then what make??

Thanks for your input.

Click to expand...

oem

I only use Britpart for non essential items such as door mirrors as anything technical dont last long.

Shifty1962 said:

I only use Britpart for non essential items such as door mirrors as anything technical dont last long.

Click to expand...

Your brave shifty! i wouldnt even put a britpart sticker on my defender.

OK........cracked open the ECU, and clean as a whistle.....i am now wondering if the stuttering and juddering had anything to do with the injector loom at all.

My symptoms are exactly the same as described as oil getting into the ECU.....I have just replaced half the bloody Defender, and this problem is continuing.

Any ideas??? I have read the thread on the dodgy fuel pump.....
I could do with a check list if at all possible.....

It really feels like there is water in the fuel, but the filter and housing are brand new.

Thanks.

get it plugged in i would say.

Clear any faults and try it then.

Injectors?

Ok...Will do.
I guess the problem will be as it is an intermittent issue, with my luck, it will run fine whilst plugged in.

How will I know if the injectors are knackered, or at least at fault??

Thanks for your help.

I probably isn't , but mine was similar and it turned out to be an earthing problem.
It was the battery-chassis- gearbox lead that was the problem . Sometimes it was fine , other times it was like yours

I had those symptoms on and off for a little while before I had major issues with the wiring from ECU to accelerator pedal. As others have said get it plugged in and read the fault codes. You will see "driver demand" faults if it's anything to do with accelerator or the associated wiring. If not that at least it might point you towards something else.