Td5 oil filter change

About to change the engine oil and filters on my 99 TD5 for the first time.
What's the trick for changing the main filter? Seems to be in an impossible position behind the exhaust.

Use a filter remover and use that to break the seal. (I use my chain wrench type as my big pliers one are too big to get in there) It is then reachable around the exhaust and can be spun off by hand.

Yes I agree, awkward spot but not impossible

Take care with the two bolts on the rotor filter as they are a fine thread into an alloy casing and are easy to strip.

i got one of these, works well on fuel filters as well
Halfords Oil Filter Pliers 300mm (12&#034 from Halfords Price £9.49

ref the centri filter-i did have stripped bolts about a year ago...but all is not lost. Just BE PREPARED-mine was off the road for a week because of it.
The bolt holes are actually bottomless.
I now use 2 M5 x 50mm socket cap bolts, washered & with M5 lock nuts on the bottom. The one nearest the block is fiddly as fu(k but you just need patience....& a bit of tape to hold the nut in the spanner as you have to do it blind & by touch

Thanks for the advice chaps.

I'm really struggling to get the main filter off - been trying a strap wrench, but there's not enough room between exhaust and turbo. Used to have a chain wrench with socket, but no longer . . . .

In the end, I remember on some vehicle in the past bashing a chisel through the old filter and using that as a lever. Bit messy, but it worked.

Any thoughts on that?

BTW, very useful cautions about the thread on the rotor filter housing. I partly stripped one, but managed to fix with a longer M6 bolt which fitted the thread remaining at the bottom of the hole. Mind you, I had to use the Dremel to take the top 1 cm of the thread off so it would rotate freely in the removable part of the housing.

Use a nylon webbing strap wrench instead of the chain one.
You only need it to break the seal then spin off by hand.
Put the new one back with a smear of engine oil on the rubber and hand tighten only.
No need to crank on it to get it to seal.
I change mine every 3k miles and dont need a filter wrench to get mine off. Twist and go. Never leaks.
Do the rotor housing bolts up to 6 ft/lbs. The O ring does the sealing not the bolts.

I only had strap wrench with a handle (rather than socket sort) and there was not enough room to work . . . So in the end I took the plunge and bashed a chisel through the side of the filter. Worked a treat, and the filter was off in seconds. By the condition of the rubber seal, my guess is that the bastards who put it on tightened it up to the maximum!

I've taken advice from here, and only tightened the new one just beyond hand tight. It's running now, and no leaks.

Now to replace the SLS compressor. . . . . . .

simonvfr said:

I've taken advice from here, and only tightened the new one just beyond hand tight. It's running now, and no leaks.

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A handy hint from the chap that 'taught' me.......do up hard to reach oil filters with your left hand that way they can't be too tight.

Agree with ^^^ smear of oil hint, altho I use LM grease, same principle.

simonvfr said:

.

In the end, I remember on some vehicle in the past bashing a chisel through the old filter and using that as a lever. Bit messy, but it worked.

Any thoughts on that?

.

Click to expand...

I too found there was insufficient clearance between filter and manifold for my trusty chain wrench, so I ended up tapping the filter loose, using a hammer hammer and big screwdriver, on the filters bottom edge. I saw no mileage in hammering the screwy right thro, as it looked like it wouldn't have had room to spin round anyway.

simonvfr said:

I only had strap wrench with a handle (rather than socket sort) and there was not enough room to work . . . So in the end I took the plunge and bashed a chisel through the side of the filter. Worked a treat, and the filter was off in seconds. By the condition of the rubber seal, my guess is that the bastards who put it on tightened it up to the maximum!

I've taken advice from here, and only tightened the new one just beyond hand tight. It's running now, and no leaks.

Now to replace the SLS compressor. . . . . . .

Click to expand...

As long as it dont leak then its tight enough.

Got one of those halfords three finger things that attach to a rachet. See of its any good at the weekend

jdandcoke said:

Got one of those halfords three finger things that attach to a rachet. See of its any good at the weekend

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Surely they need space at the end of the filter? Turbo oil drain pipe runs about 1cm clear on mine . . . . .

jdandcoke said:

Got one of those halfords three finger things that attach to a rachet. See of its any good at the weekend

Click to expand...

You wont be able to get it on the filter of a TD5 engine unless you remove the turbo oil drain pipe and the engine mount. Even then there may not be room to turn it. Get a strap wrench off eBay they are not expensive and have numerous uses.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Draper-Oil-Fu...tZUK_Hand_Tools_Equipment?hash=item230589769e

Shifty1962 said:

You wont be able to get it on the filter of a TD5 engine unless you remove the turbo oil drain pipe and the engine mount. Even then there may not be room to turn it. Get a strap wrench off eBay they are not expensive and have numerous uses.

Draper Oil Fuel Filter Removal Tool / Strap Wrench on eBay (end time 23-Mar-10 22:48:53 GMT)

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I can get my 3 leg filter wrench on my oil filter. I need to get the filter wrench in place first, and then fit the ratchet after. There isn't a lot of room to move the ratchet but it can be done. I can't get my chain wrench on the fecker though. One day I'll get myself a strap wrench.

If you have an old 25mm ratchet strap and a knackered long reach socket that have seen better days you could make one yourself for pennies. I used to have a DIY one but sprung for the real thing when it eventually gave up the ghost. Probably because the oil rotted the webbing. It lasted about 10 years though so I've got no complaints.

Shifty1962 said:

If you have an old 25mm ratchet strap and a knackered long reach socket that have seen better days you could make one yourself for pennies. I used to have a DIY one but sprung for the real thing when it eventually gave up the ghost. Probably because the oil rotted the webbing. It lasted about 10 years though so I've got no complaints.

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I have plenty of old webbing strap laying around so I might give it a go although I can't do the next service myself as I just took out an AA warranty on my landy so I have to use a VAT registered garage to service my landy as part of the conditions. Time to call in some favours from some local garages me thinks.

eighth of a turn and its off everytime