cowasaki
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,517
- Location
- North West England
Well, it's all installed and working 
The price was not cheap (around £400 in total) though but I think it was worth it:
£170.00 Raptor dash (with switches, bespoke bottom & standard top) + Raptor pod
£ 6.00 Raptor decals (not yet in place)
£ 23.95 Raptor trim panels
£ 65.00 TD5 complete binnacle including speedo, clock, temp gauge & fuel gauge.
£ 16.95 50m assorted wire (5 black, 5 brown, 5 white, 8 red, 1 white/yellow, 1 green/purple, 5 red/white, 1 red/yellow, 1 blue/white, 1 yellow black, 1 brown/white, 1 green/white, 1 green/red, 1 grey/white, 1 black/white, 1 white/green, 1 black/blue, 1 green/blue, 1 green/black, 1 brown/yellow, 5 purple/yellow)
£ 31.20 All the connectors for PaulMc (£3.25 - transducer plug, £12.95 - speedo connectors, £2.95 - clock connector, £10.95 warning light connectors & £1.10 Postage)
£ 36.00 Genuine landrover transducer
£ 15.00 2 Pairs of ATX connectors, crimps, tape, cable protectors
£ 6.00 LED bulbs
£ 4.95 6 fuse box
£ 3.30 ROW spec 300TDi water temperature sender (AMR1425)
Then I spent £71.50 on the CB and £37 on the boost gauge (I had the ammeter and volt gauge already)
Fitting the Raptor dash was absolute simplicity, it came with a template (which they suggest you fix to some hardboard then screw to the screw holes for the plastic rear wash wipe/cigarette lighter plate). I simply folded the paper template along the cut lines and stuck screws through the hold then marked the vertical lines and horizontal line. I then cut it out with a cutting disc on the grinder After that it just slots into place and you drill several holes through the rear of the existing dash back the screw it into place. The pod was similarly easy to fit although my dash was slimmer than normal for some reason which meant the the screws ran out of thread. They sent me new ones the next day and I used a load of washers to make sure they didn't bottom out again.
The Raptor stuff is supremely well made and even came with a few spare screws etc. Phil from Raptor even rang me up to discuss my layout for the bottom plate giving me a better layout which works very well.
All in all I am very happy with it.
As for the TD5 dash, well thats easy in theory! The practice is not particularly hard but several things went wrong that needed sorting. The first issue was the transducer. I fitted it 5 or 6 times until it actually spun correctly and sent the pulses. I wired up the instruments from scratch using all the standard connectors which I got from PaulMC. Some of the diagrams on the net don't make it clear if you are viewing the connector from the socket side or the plug side so I managed to wire the 16 pin connector backwards! Anyway I got it all working in the end. I've fitted LED bulbs and it is a VAST improvement over the standard 300 TDi dash.
Issues:
Temperature gauge - Well it doesn't work even though I used the correct sender. The wiring is absolutely correct so I think that there is something wrong with the gauge. It jumps to hot when you touch the sender wire to ground but it just doesn't work as it should. The temp gauge is a little tatty so I plan to get a new TD5 gauge later and sort it then. I've temporarily wired up the original sender to the original gauge in the pod as I had a space there anyway.
Trailer light - I didn't like the trailer flashing once as the indicators go on so I cut the trailer wire and put a male and female connector on the ends. When I get a tow bar and wire up the electrics I will look at the trailer thing then.
Raptor trim panels - These look great and really go well with the Raptor dash. However on my car when they were fitted they push the plastic ignition barrel cover forward so it rubs on the steering wheel. I simply removed the lip off the two plastic sections and it now fits perfectly and really does look good.
Switches - The Raptor switches look great but unfortunately they are only available as on/off SPST switches. I have a couple of things which require SPDT so will use a 5 pin relay for these which will give me that functionality using just a SPST switch. Also the rear wash wipe hole was round rather than a D shape but some hot glue sorted that issue.
Gauges - The boost gauge is new and is the only one staying. I will be getting volt and ammeter gauges that match that gauge plus an oil pressure/temperature gauge.
The price was not cheap (around £400 in total) though but I think it was worth it:
£170.00 Raptor dash (with switches, bespoke bottom & standard top) + Raptor pod
£ 6.00 Raptor decals (not yet in place)
£ 23.95 Raptor trim panels
£ 65.00 TD5 complete binnacle including speedo, clock, temp gauge & fuel gauge.
£ 16.95 50m assorted wire (5 black, 5 brown, 5 white, 8 red, 1 white/yellow, 1 green/purple, 5 red/white, 1 red/yellow, 1 blue/white, 1 yellow black, 1 brown/white, 1 green/white, 1 green/red, 1 grey/white, 1 black/white, 1 white/green, 1 black/blue, 1 green/blue, 1 green/black, 1 brown/yellow, 5 purple/yellow)
£ 31.20 All the connectors for PaulMc (£3.25 - transducer plug, £12.95 - speedo connectors, £2.95 - clock connector, £10.95 warning light connectors & £1.10 Postage)
£ 36.00 Genuine landrover transducer
£ 15.00 2 Pairs of ATX connectors, crimps, tape, cable protectors
£ 6.00 LED bulbs
£ 4.95 6 fuse box
£ 3.30 ROW spec 300TDi water temperature sender (AMR1425)
Then I spent £71.50 on the CB and £37 on the boost gauge (I had the ammeter and volt gauge already)
Fitting the Raptor dash was absolute simplicity, it came with a template (which they suggest you fix to some hardboard then screw to the screw holes for the plastic rear wash wipe/cigarette lighter plate). I simply folded the paper template along the cut lines and stuck screws through the hold then marked the vertical lines and horizontal line. I then cut it out with a cutting disc on the grinder
After that it just slots into place and you drill several holes through the rear of the existing dash back the screw it into place. The pod was similarly easy to fit although my dash was slimmer than normal for some reason which meant the the screws ran out of thread. They sent me new ones the next day and I used a load of washers to make sure they didn't bottom out again. The Raptor stuff is supremely well made and even came with a few spare screws etc. Phil from Raptor even rang me up to discuss my layout for the bottom plate giving me a better layout which works very well.
All in all I am very happy with it.
As for the TD5 dash, well thats easy in theory! The practice is not particularly hard but several things went wrong that needed sorting. The first issue was the transducer. I fitted it 5 or 6 times until it actually spun correctly and sent the pulses. I wired up the instruments from scratch using all the standard connectors which I got from PaulMC. Some of the diagrams on the net don't make it clear if you are viewing the connector from the socket side or the plug side so I managed to wire the 16 pin connector backwards! Anyway I got it all working in the end. I've fitted LED bulbs and it is a VAST improvement over the standard 300 TDi dash.
Issues:
Temperature gauge - Well it doesn't work even though I used the correct sender. The wiring is absolutely correct so I think that there is something wrong with the gauge. It jumps to hot when you touch the sender wire to ground but it just doesn't work as it should. The temp gauge is a little tatty so I plan to get a new TD5 gauge later and sort it then. I've temporarily wired up the original sender to the original gauge in the pod as I had a space there anyway.
Trailer light - I didn't like the trailer flashing once as the indicators go on so I cut the trailer wire and put a male and female connector on the ends. When I get a tow bar and wire up the electrics I will look at the trailer thing then.
Raptor trim panels - These look great and really go well with the Raptor dash. However on my car when they were fitted they push the plastic ignition barrel cover forward so it rubs on the steering wheel. I simply removed the lip off the two plastic sections and it now fits perfectly and really does look good.
Switches - The Raptor switches look great but unfortunately they are only available as on/off SPST switches. I have a couple of things which require SPDT so will use a 5 pin relay for these which will give me that functionality using just a SPST switch. Also the rear wash wipe hole was round rather than a D shape but some hot glue sorted that issue.
Gauges - The boost gauge is new and is the only one staying. I will be getting volt and ammeter gauges that match that gauge plus an oil pressure/temperature gauge.
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