TD5 gearbox stiff

powellboy123 said:

Sorry I just saw the other message above is the MTF 94 the same as the 74? and is the Diff Locks evo worth a try?

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MTF 94 is the oil for your one chap

i've not tried the difflock MTF 94 i think a few on this forum have and seem to like it, i don't know who Difflock buy it from. My defender is a '97 so ATF oil only in my box

Amsoil do a good one called MTF

MTF 74 is a type error

cheers

Cheers I will give it a try.

my 2004 td5 has a notch on my gearbox between 1st and 2nd & 2nd and 3rd slighty better when warm (but not much!).
took it back to main dealer (stratstone newcastle) who changed the oil but it was exactly the same after!
I'm starting to worry that this may be a serious problem and a costly one to rectify!!!
can anyone shed any light on the subject for me?
most info on here seems to be change the oil, which has been done!!
help

stonedoctor said:

my 2004 td5 has a notch on my gearbox between 1st and 2nd & 2nd and 3rd slighty better when warm (but not much!).
took it back to main dealer (stratstone newcastle) who changed the oil but it was exactly the same after!
I'm starting to worry that this may be a serious problem and a costly one to rectify!!!
can anyone shed any light on the subject for me?
most info on here seems to be change the oil, which has been done!!
help

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Is it better if you take more time when changing or when you double de clutch?

If it is then the synchromesh is worn between those gears

Have you had the defender since new?

Mtf 94

distd5co said:

Mtf 94

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I think the main dealer would have put MTF94 in it when they changed the oil

I've been told by a guy I know who builds gearbox's for a living it's a common fault due to weak selector forks or rails ? mostly between 1st & 2nd told me to change into 2nd as soon as poss.

I have the same problem getting into second till it warms up ! only done 72,000 miles. have renewed the gearbox oil with the reccommended and a new clutch, but no change. Will try the MTF 94 or molyslip.

zakumwest said:

I have the same problem getting into second till it warms up ! only done 72,000 miles. have renewed the gearbox oil with the reccommended and a new clutch, but no change. Will try the MTF 94 or molyslip.

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Remember, the problem is the SYNCHROMESH.
That is designed NOT to allow the gears to engage until they are running at the same speed. Synchromesh is essentially a little friction clutch on each speed gear that makes the two parts of the gears reach the same speed BEFORE letting them slip into mesh. Hence BAULK RING SYNCHROMESH. It is there to PREVENT gear-crunching, and it does that by stopping you engaging gears if they are going to crunch.

Adding molyslip usually makes the problem WORSE, as the synchromesh rings slip more easily instead of gripping and doing their work.

Two ways to help. Never use FORCE.

Remember, to go from 1st gear to second, the engine revs need to drop by about HALF. Learn how to let that happen, so if you were up to 3,000 revs in 1st, whip it into 2nd when the revs are dropping at about 1,700 or so.

As best you can, do NOT run high revs in 1st gear. Get moving a bit in 1st, then slip into 2nd gear at a low speed, and deck it.

If you learn to match engine speed it will help a whole lot.

To change from 2nd gear to 1st, you will need to about double the engine revs.
Use the throttle to speed the engine up, and it will help a lot.

It is perfectly possible and easy to change gears silently and doing no harm, from 1st all the way up to 5th and back down again WITHOUT USING THE CLUTCH. Every so often I have to prove this by doing it.

CharlesY

I'm having trouble getting 2nd. If change slowly it's fine, if I change quick it crunches. Is there any chance it's an adjustment problem or is the synchro knacked? Whole gearbox a bit whiney and selection a bit vague- my last defender td5 used to whine in 4th and 5th, this one does it in all gears? Reckon it needs a rebuild, my disco with r380 whines too but that's transfer box

powerstar7810 said:

I'm having trouble getting 2nd. If change slowly it's fine, if I change quick it crunches.

OK .... in fact you are having NO difficulty GETTING second gear! The problem is that it crunches.

When you change slowly you are giving the friction clutch synchro ring time to synchronise the speeds of the rotating parts, and if you get that right, it will slip into gear quietly. If you try too fast the synchro ring is unable to grip well enough to BLOCK you getting the gears to try to mesh, and it does mesh with a crunch.


Is there any chance it's an adjustment problem or is the synchro knacked?

There is no adjustment you can make to help this situation - the synchro ring on that gear is wearing out. HOWEVER, that does not mean the rest of the box is worn out. If you learned to change up and down into second, you could have that gearbox for quite a while longer.


Whole gearbox a bit whiney and selection a bit vague- my last defender td5 used to whine in 4th and 5th, this one does it in all gears? Reckon it needs a rebuild, my disco with r380 whines too but that's transfer box

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It sounds as if the whole box is tired, could do with a recon or rebuild.
They do not last forever, but it might last a long time yet if you keep your nerve, drive sensibly, and learn to match revs to speed.

CharlesY

No need for new or recon box`s mine was the same . Its a easy fix you need to strip out the centre console drill out the pop rivet`s on plate to let you get to the top of gear box unbolt the plate on top of gear box there are two plastic bushes one gear stick one one selector they f..k up easy whey to change the selctor one unbolt it off the shaft there is a circlip as well DONT drop it in the box or you will be in the sh.t . The cost of the bush`s is about £5

My 1994 300TDi R380 won't go into first without a loud crunch unless it's completely stationary, I don't put it in first unless i'm stopped but it's obviously a problem.

the box has done 110,000, saturday I did 70 miles at 70mph and when I stopped there was a strong smell of burnt oil in the cab

would changing the oil help any of the problems and if not is a later TD5 R380 a straight swap

r380 gear boxes have baulk rings which dog teeth wear making gear change harder,changing oil frquently is important and definately before lr service schedule ,like all car manufactures they are extending service intervals further than good for transmission,atf frequently is better than mtf rarely ,mtf is no better as lubricant but can help gear change on some boxes dont add additives as this can make baulk rings life harder,its not unusual for baulk rings to need changing at 60k,they dont have weak selector rails thats bollocks,

jamesmartin said:

r380 gear boxes have baulk rings which dog teeth wear making gear change harder,changing oil frquently is important and definately before lr service schedule ,like all car manufactures they are extending service intervals further than good for transmission,atf frequently is better than mtf rarely ,mtf is no better as lubricant but can help gear change on some boxes dont add additives as this can make baulk rings life harder,its not unusual for baulk rings to need changing at 60k,they dont have weak selector rails thats bollocks,

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Well said

I know this is an old thread but I have had similar problems with my high mileage D2 TD5 (2004)......
I have worked on cars all my life and this problem (stiff gear selection when cold) was driving me crazy! It also developed a slight clutch judder and was very annoying. Anyway after much reading and many hours buggering about with various solutions I noticed that the carpet was really filthy so I pulled it out.... and then the carpet underneath that.... and then the carpet underneath that.... yes you have guessed it! The previous owner had "fitted" various extra rubber mats / carpets and they had ridden up behind the clutch pedal and thus prevented the pedal from being depressed completely. Took the bloody carpets out and ... wow what a sweet gearbox!!!
ps only had the car for 2 years! .... lesson - check the bloody obvious first!!!!:scratching_chin:

johndenney said:

I know this is an old thread but I have had similar problems with my high mileage D2 TD5 (2004)......
I have worked on cars all my life and this problem (stiff gear selection when cold) was driving me crazy! It also developed a slight clutch judder and was very annoying. Anyway after much reading and many hours buggering about with various solutions I noticed that the carpet was really filthy so I pulled it out.... and then the carpet underneath that.... and then the carpet underneath that.... yes you have guessed it! The previous owner had "fitted" various extra rubber mats / carpets and they had ridden up behind the clutch pedal and thus prevented the pedal from being depressed completely. Took the bloody carpets out and ... wow what a sweet gearbox!!!
ps only had the car for 2 years! .... lesson - check the bloody obvious first!!!!:scratching_chin:

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lol and a new gear box from land rover would have cost 2500 good call