TD5 Fuelling - What am I missing?

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DerekT

Active Member
Posts
346
Location
Aberdeen
Have been plagued with starting and fuel problems with my TD5 110 for some time now. So far I have replaced the Injector harness, (there was oil down to the ECU but this now cleaned out), new battery, new Fuel filter housing and new Fuel lift pump.
Can be difficult to start, but once running can sit at fast idle for as long as I want, but go for a short run, about 1 mile, then the engine will die. If I leave it for a few minutes, or go through the purge cycle, then foot to floor and with about 10 seconds cranking it will eventually take again and of it goes for about another mile then it dies again.
Feels like fuel starvation or air getting into the mixture? Ring any bells with anyone? What am I missing?
PS have checked fuel pressure where it goes into the regulator and getting well in excess of the 4 bar and Oil level normal and not increasing. :confused:
 
OK, thanks for the replies. Injector O rings now on order! That was going to be my next attempt to cure this problem. Will also check the fuel filter bleed valve and also get a new bleed valve just in case!
 
Ok, injectors out, quite easy really! just waiting for the "O" rings to arrive. In the meantime I am also doing the EGR bypass mod but wanted to check the glow plugs for correct operation. How do you get them out!! Haynes manual says they can be extracted through the inlet manifold. Does it have to be a special slim, deep socket on a universal joint or something?
 
Does it have to be a special slim, deep socket on a universal joint or something?

something like this, one which fits, unfortunately i dont remember the size of it... be aware the plugs used to block there cos their heads are bulging in time, then if u force it they crack within... and in this case u have to remove the head to take them out ... happened to me, so good luck
 
Its not the o rings that are causing your problem - its the lower copper washers.Both should be replaced each time the injectors are taken out.
Unless you live within the Artic circle it would be better to leave the glow plugs alone,they are more for lowering the emissions on the warm up cycle,rather than helping with cold starts.
 
HELP 2 years ago had problems with the td5 running but conking out after running at speed garage replaced fuel pump and injector wiring loom and injector seals all went well now its playing up again had fuel pump out cleaned it run ok , then downhill again ages to start runs lumpy rev all ok lumpy on tick over ive replaced air bleed valve pressure regulator block injector wiring loom and still no better anyone got any ideas i hope its not injectors someone said to me they very rarely go hope this is true at the mo my stance on this ,is of its got tits or tyres its trouble !!!!!
 
There could be many reasons... can't u get near a tester to read fault codes? ... untill then check the plug and wiring of the crank sensor...

when u replaced the injector loom did u clean the red plug at the ECU too? ... the oil is getting there even if u replaced the loom untill the harness dryes out
 
i have just got this nagging feeling it could be air getting in somewhere because every time i switch ignition on you can hear the fuel rushing through pipe work around pressure regulator and the fuel cooler mybe injector seals again even though they were replaced 2 years ago poss a naf job by garage or inferior parts ??????
 
thanks mike will check all these conections i have also checked waste gate operation diaphrams and such like,!!!! Sierrafery un fortunatley no access to diagnostics at the mo have cleaned ecu plug and letting it drain will plug it in later and give it a go also took it for a run today got half a mile and it died 10 mins later finally started held it at full revs all god for 10/15 seconds then the revs started to drop away lift foot off throttle and ticked over lumpy and stopped arrggghh !!!!!!
 
i have just got this nagging feeling it could be air getting in somewhere because every time i switch ignition on you can hear the fuel rushing through pipe work around pressure regulator and the fuel cooler mybe injector seals again even though they were replaced 2 years ago poss a naf job by garage or inferior parts ??????
At that area if there is a crack somewhere it's not an "air in" but a "fuel out" issue... must be a sign of leak then.
 
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at the mo have cleaned ecu plug and letting it drain will plug it in later and give it a go

so was it full of oil? ...if it was this could be the cause of your saga....unplug the connector which connects to the injector loom at the head and check there too
 
oh i wish it was that easy no sign of leak anywhere thats why im leaning towards injector seals because thats what happened before totally at a loss with it now its mind boggling but must me something so simple and obvious that im missing it i have been told by britcar that injectors very rarely go wrong lets hope this is true, as aprecaution i have dosed the system with injector cleaner in hope :confused2:
 
towed my caravan from bridlington to edinburgh with 2 blown out copper injector washers 4th gear 55 mph shudderd like hell but got me home so what im sayin is blown washers send areated feul back to the tank but prety shure if this is ur trouble landy would shuder bad when driven
 
Ok, just to give hope to others, my problem with poor starting and engine dying after a mile now seems to be sorted! After trying many other things along the way, (see earlier in this thread), final resolution seems to be "O" rings and copper washers. have just replaced these, a lot more easily than I expected, and things are now going well. Visual inspection of Copper washers showed considerable pitting and at least one showing tracking right across the face. Only problem had was "losing" a rocker arm locking nut! Had to wait until dealer ordered one up to get it all back together again. Thanks to all who commented and contributed. :D:D
Now to get on with that EGR mod from Alive.....
 
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